sigmaldwarf

I feel like I might be annoying some people with my beginner questions. I have read lots of these sites I've been told about before. I am a newbie to the forum... not totally from the RX. All that I really know is reading stuff though. Everyone here has experience... which is what actually counts... that is why I'm asking you all the questions. Thanks again for all of your help!

So here's the ?

What mods should be done for $2k to a stock FD (based on good conditions considering engine and turbos)? I don't want body kits... stereo... bla bla bla... I don't care about these things. I want a SCCA star! This is a starting point... there will be future mods in store. Keep daily driven in mind. THANKS AGAIN!!!

Sig

sigmaldwarf

nevermind... answered my own question... sorry fellas! I had overlooked part of one of these sites... I'll shut up now.

Larse

Well, if you don't value an opinion from a fellow newbie, then disregard my reply.

MATINENCE MODS. Sure, you can do Intake, Exhaust, ECU upgrade first, but I'd make sure the car will be reliable first.

-radiator
-silicone hoses
-etc.

There are many threads and sites pertaining to whats the best mod order and what not.

SanJoRX7

I concur with Larse here...newbie or not, he's right. If your reliability mods haven't been done, you'll be a tow truck star, not an SCCA star.

Make sure you have had all your recalls done, if you don't know when your belts were last changed, do those, same for hoses (might upgrade these while you're at it), and same for fuel filter (don't want to clog and run lean...new engine time there).

After those, I'd recommend the radiator to reduce the engine temp, AST if you've got a 93 (maybe even if not), make sure your brakes are in good shape and think about replacing the fluid (Motul 600 rules), and possibly the lines and pads (if the pads are coming close to end of life).

Beyond those, you start getting into performance mods...the above stuff can cost some money, but surely less than $2k, so if you're already done w/ those, then I'd go for DP first (reduces underhood heat, which helps protect the sissy parts from heat-cycle damage), then I'd go for CB, then intake, and then you'll need to consider an upgraded ECU to handle your boost/fuel situation.

If you can do all of that on $2k, I congratulate you. I'm still running everything stock, and I've spent at least that much (just haven't installed my PFC yet ).

Make us proud and don't rice out!

sigmaldwarf

I was going to do the reliability mods first... I found the site thanks to an earlier post that had what needs to be done. I agree totally... it needs to run right and well... FIRST! Thanks for all of the added info. Not all of these recs were on that site. That's why I wrote this in the first place... experience rules! What does DP and CB stand for? I am most likely getting my FD from Clean and Fast in Raleigh, NC and they will rebuild the engine for me when I buy it (if it needs it). I have exp with pistons... but i'm going to take my time before attacking a rotor with wrench. Watch and learn first. If it needs to be rebuilt... the only thing that may happen if I have $ left over from reliability mods would be 3mm seals and porting (downpipe if it doesn't already have one... to reduce heat). Thanks again for all of the help!

... and don't worry... no stickers no fuss... all go!

maxpesce

Unless you do all the remove/instal labor yourself any internal engine work (ports 3mm seals etc) is going to cost you at least $4K. From your post it sounds like you are interested in Autocross/RoadRace so I would recomend upgrading to SS brake lines, Better Brake Pads, Upgraded springs & shocks (or Adjustable coil overs) and roll bars before going for big HP gains. 280+ HP (=CB, DP & Intake mod) is enough to get you into big trouble in a hurry on a road course or autocross track.

PS:
DP is Downpipe, replaces the restrictive heat factory that MAZDA calls a primary catalyst
CB is CatBack - exhaust sustem from Main Cat to tail pipes generally LOUDER and less restrictive than stock

sigmaldwarf

Cool... thanks for the info... obviously I did not know about the porting and 3mm stuff. The only reason I was saying that is that this is what most of the cars that come out of Clean and Fast have the porting... and I have heard that it is a good idea to run 3mm seals to hold boost well.

I am familiar with catbacks and downpipes... just never seen the abbreviations. What DP's and CB's does everyone suggest? I DO NOT want a resonator in my system AT ALL!!! The deeper the sounding the better (although performance does come first). I was looking into the N1 dual canister kit for the CB. Does anyone know if this kit sounds ricey? I know it has really good flow characteristics... that's why I like it. I know the single N1 would have deeper sound, but I hear the dual has better TQ charateristics. Let me know what eveyone thinks!

sigmaldwarf

OK... what's the deal? I read on the post with the chipmunk powered weed wacker, and it is being said that resonators lower the exhaust note? I always hear those stupid hondas with the resonated muffs and they have the 2cycle high-pitched fartback sound... what's the deal? I always thought it was the resonator that made the high sound. There was a guy who put a resonated tip on his V6 mustang... and it raised the exhaust note... sounded like, well... crap (to put it nicely). Is 3.5" too big of an exhaust to run by the way? That might help lower the note, and running a cat also helps... gets rid of the high shrill sounds (at least on mustangs).

93TTRX7

I don't think there is a rotary with a nice deep growling sound...I think the best one is the Greddy PE since it's almost as silent...who gives a **** about exhaust? Chicks dig turbo spool...just spool and drool

rynberg

Yeah, because of the way the exhaust ports are run on 2-rotor rotaries, they all tend to start sounding like weed wackers on speed with a free-flowing exhaust. With a downpipe and a cat-back like M2 or Racing Beat, the sound is supposed to be pretty quiet with a much lower tone than stock. Here's a link to a sound quality description (scroll almost to bottom to DamonB's last post):

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=sound+quality

Also, you really should have a boost gauge before you start modding the car. As you'll note in the link I gave you, DamonB started getting dangerous spikes with just a downpipe and cat-back. Depending on your car, you might need additional boost control or an ecu with these mods. YMMV.

SanJoRX7

Rynberg's right, get a good boost gauge in there ASAP so that you can keep an eye on things. I installed mine and have been boosting a nearly perfect pattern, but have noticed a 13psi high on occasion, so that helps me think a little more about not just flooring it all the time until I get my PFC installed.

sigmaldwarf

The company I will most likely be buying the FD from puts boost guages in all of their cars. I am not going to be doing these mods until the reliability part is done... I was just thinking about it... so I asked. I am also planning on putting EGT, Fuel Pressure, and oil pressure guages in addition to the boost guage. Do 02 sensors foul really easily in FD's? I was thinking of running a wideband O2 to get the best readings for the guages... but if they foul really easily... that's too much $ to sink in something like that. Thanks again for all of the help!!!