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I will have to check but I think sub 200. Just give them a call. Imo if it works as advertiserd it is under priced right now. I see no indication of any issues and saw one mounted when I was at the shop. Looks awesome. If I go single it will be a nice piece to see.
Fly out there and aggravate them lol. J/K... Did you call them? They had quite a few on their counter, but maybe there is a line waiting. I am not sure and do not want to speak for them..
Looks great! One questions I have is how the stock FPR will hold up to an aftermarket fuel pump. I know on other platforms the stock FPR gets overwhelmed with the increased flow and fuel pressure becomes erratic. Does anyone have any input on this?
I have no clue. I am interested to hear opinions or more importantly facts. So far I see 0 issues. The only issue is my map may be a little bit too rich, which obviously isn't the rails fault.
Quick edit. As for fuel pump I am running the denso supra TT. I have yet to do the re wire mod on the pump. No idea what kind of pump/pressure your refering too. Like something well above a supra pump?
So what is the final input on fitment with a California car (so a lot of emissions)?
I have the Azeknightz aftermarket solenoid rack in place which displaces the Turbo Control, Charge Control, Charge Relief and one more solenoid in the rack to behind the ABS unit.
The main concern is still going to be the ACV. From @Testrun 's picture, the clearance looks pretty tight and the ACV is a bigger unit for sure.
I could be mistaken of course, but I am pretty sure RP told me that it will fit with ACV with a little grinding of the ACV. I would of course double check with them. I am sorry if I would have known I would have mounted acv and showed all how it fit. I should have thought about that. Apologies to the community. I am sure RP will give you the right answer though. They seem to be very honest and up front.
I could be mistaken of course, but I am pretty sure RP told me that it will fit with ACV with a little grinding of the ACV. I would of course double check with them. I am sorry if I would have known I would have mounted acv and showed all how it fit. I should have thought about that. Apologies to the community. I am sure RP will give you the right answer though. They seem to be very honest and up front.
So word is from RP that this will fit with the ACV. No grinding or anything. I think the for hose pr something needed to be slightly bent or something. Anyway, I am sure anyone is capable to install with the ACV. They have already sold a few to people with the acv.
So word is from RP that this will fit with the ACV. No grinding or anything. I think the for hose pr something needed to be slightly bent or something. Anyway, I am sure anyone is capable to install with the ACV. They have already sold a few to people with the acv.
I just got around to installing mine today. I deleted my ACV and re hosed the rats nest as well as replaced the turbo solenoids in the process. If you are keeping the solenoid rack and hoses in place, you will need to bend a few hard lines to clear the thermosensor and front banjo fitting. This rail sits higher than stock and won’t clear these hard lines. I also don’t think the ACV will fit without somehow removing the bottom stud, as this rail literally sits against the bottom bolt of the delete plate. All else is straightforward and i am glad to see my secondary duty cycle down to 45 percent from over 90 percent before the upgrade.
I'll ask a dumb question, because it's what I do. Regarding the injectors you can buy with this rail, it was asked previously what needs to be done on a PowerFC to get the new big secondaries to work, to which Dale's response was
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Chris Ott at RP sent me the settings to use. It basically scales the injectors so they are good to go.
Great!
In playing around with my FC Edit settings I do see that setting the injectors to a larger size seems to scale the whole map. However, I recently read this in a post:
Originally Posted by Skeese
If you change injectors on the PFC, you'll have to retune the entire fuel map basically from scratch as its an injector pulse width tune and not a VE tune where you would simply change the injector sizes in the tune settings and only have to make a few tweaks at staging if necessary.
So... is a full tune what is needed? Or is injector scaling a real thing? I just want to ensure I understand fully what I need to do with these 2200's before I get my order in. Other PFC folks, what say you?
Last edited by XanderCage; Jan 19, 2019 at 02:50 PM.
I'll ask a dumb question, because it's what I do. Regarding the injectors you can buy with this rail, it was asked previously what needs to be done on a PowerFC to get the new big secondaries to work, to which Dale's response was
Great!
In playing around with my FC Edit settings I do see that setting the injectors to a larger size seems to scale the whole map. However, I recently read this in a post:
So... is a full tune what is needed? Or is injector scaling a real thing? I just want to ensure I understand fully what I need to do with these 2200's before I get my order in. Other PFC folks, what say you?
I would go with a whole new map. I am not educated enough on the matter, but I have been told they scale, but you still need a whole retune or base map. Please tune! I just blew an apex. It could be totally unrelated to the tuning or lack of (I was on a base map for the 2200s), but I can tell you it is not worth the risk!
^ Yes, I've been following your other thread which is why I want to be veeeeery cautious. You've got my condolences by the way, that SUCKS!
Thanks and it is appreciated.
I am just starting to hold my head up again It may not have been the map at all. I know I had enough fuel kicking so maybe timing? I doubt it though. Anyway I would hate to see anyone else go through this so get a reputable tune. Just my opinion. All the research I have done it seems a tune is by far the most valuable mod. Of course making sure everything else is operating properly.
BTW. If I were you I would get a 3 bar map sensor. Factory is good to 16-17 according to some, but others say much less. $180.00 why not. Apex is what I will get.
Thanks and it is appreciated.
I am just starting to hold my head up again It may not have been the map at all. I know I had enough fuel kicking so maybe timing? I doubt it though. Anyway I would hate to see anyone else go through this so get a reputable tune. Just my opinion. All the research I have done it seems a tune is by far the most valuable mod. Of course making sure everything else is operating properly.
BTW. If I were you I would get a 3 bar map sensor. Factory is good to 16-17 according to some, but others say much less. $180.00 why not. Apex is what I will get.
I am just lurking on this thread. I just upgraded to a GM 3 bar MAP from Ballenger. Made in USA Delphi sensor and they sell the P&P harness for the FD. $90 shipped.
NJ-JDM,
I have used both the GM 3-bar MAP sensor and currently use the Apexi 3-bar. There is a setting used in the Power FC for settings 3, PIM scale and offset for the MAP sensor. This has to be changed from the stock sensor settings. I used scale 6550, offset 0 for the GM 3-bar after testing mine. Others use similar scale number that varied some, which can be found on other posts in the forum. Mine was determined by my own testing using a mini-vac, a high quality pressure gauge, and a voltmeter. The data collected is then put into a calibration program developed by a RX7 guy years ago that I and others have. Their are two problems in my view with the GM sensor, one major and one minor. The sensor itself is very good and tracks very well, but their are fakes out there you have to be careful with. On my first GM 3-bar, I bought it on Ebay thinking I was getting a better deal. It was a Chinese knock off and had no heat compensating circuit in it. It tracked horribly due to changing numbers when it got hot. I found the problem out when I first installed it and my vacuum numbers changed at hot idle for no reason when my car hood was open and when I closed the hood for a while in my driveway. I then learned how to test it and did the testing while it was cold and then with a hot hair dryer blowing on it. Way off. So I then bought one from one of the reputable dealers here on the forum, Banzai, and this one tested great. No variation with heat. The other minor problem with the GM 3-bar is the offset setting.The Power FC does not allow negative numbers for the offset. The GM needs a negative offset to be totally accurate. So, the GM tracks well in a linear fashion, but is slightly off true vacuum and true boost. It is still fine, since it tracks true, the most important thing for our engine. The Apexi on the other hand tracks true and is true for the vacuum level and boost, since it requires a positive offset for its number, which can be used in the Power FC offset setting.
Mike
P.S. Remember when you change the MAP sensor, this will change your fuel MAP slightly since the stock sensor is off true also with the Power FC. Be careful and check your AFR's and retune if needed.
NJ-JDM,
I have used both the GM 3-bar MAP sensor and currently use the Apexi 3-bar. There is a setting used in the Power FC for settings 3, PIM scale and offset for the MAP sensor. This has to be changed from the stock sensor settings. I used scale 6550, offset 0 for the GM 3-bar after testing mine. Others use similar scale number that varied some, which can be found on other posts in the forum. Mine was determined by my own testing using a mini-vac, a high quality pressure gauge, and a voltmeter. The data collected is then put into a calibration program developed by a RX7 guy years ago that I and others have. Their are two problems in my view with the GM sensor, one major and one minor. The sensor itself is very good and tracks very well, but their are fakes out there you have to be careful with. On my first GM 3-bar, I bought it on Ebay thinking I was getting a better deal. It was a Chinese knock off and had no heat compensating circuit in it. It tracked horribly due to changing numbers when it got hot. I found the problem out when I first installed it and my vacuum numbers changed at hot idle for no reason when my car hood was open and when I closed the hood for a while in my driveway. I then learned how to test it and did the testing while it was cold and then with a hot hair dryer blowing on it. Way off. So I then bought one from one of the reputable dealers here on the forum, Banzai, and this one tested great. No variation with heat. The other minor problem with the GM 3-bar is the offset setting.The Power FC does not allow negative numbers for the offset. The GM needs a negative offset to be totally accurate. So, the GM tracks well in a linear fashion, but is slightly off true vacuum and true boost. It is still fine, since it tracks true, the most important thing for our engine. The Apexi on the other hand tracks true and is true for the vacuum level and boost, since it requires a positive offset for its number, which can be used in the Power FC offset setting.
Mike
P.S. Remember when you change the MAP sensor, this will change your fuel MAP slightly since the stock sensor is off true also with the Power FC. Be careful and check your AFR's and retune if needed.
Thanks for all of great the information. It's times like these when I realize I only know a fraction of what I need to for this car, and should just go back to lurking.
I am not tinkering with my tune at all. I leave that to the tuner. I just finished a single install and needed a quick solution for the MAP to get a base map up and running.
Ordered the billet rail with injectors on Sunday and it showed up today (Wednesday). Looks like a very nice piece. Came with hardware and notes to adjust the injector settings in power fc (lag time and voltage). I'll update after install.
