ArchangelX

First off, I'm really new to getting dyno-tunes..I had it done with my Celica 4 or 5 times, but I was never there during the tune. Ralph and the guys at GZ were awesome, and let me experience, and even gave me a quick lesson or two about how the dyno works, and how heat affects the pull. So if I sound like I'm throwing bullshiat at you, I probably am, cuz I'm barely hanging on to most of what he told me..heheh.

Alright...mods are listed in my signature. I really don't have alot of power mods..just a catback and the downpipe, plus a small streetport.

Due to heat soak, and the fact that my car was running extremely hot the whole time, I don't think my numbers on the dyno sheet reflect the true HP potential. Ralph pretty much said that we don't have a big enough volume of air being pushed against the intercooler to replicate what it's like to run on the street. The car was definetly getting hot...as the difference between the first dyno pulls was a huge drop. It went from 238hp on the very first pull to like 226 on the second pull, simply due to the heat soak.

All in all, the car spent about 2 1/2 hours (give or take a few) on the dyno, with several mini-runs for straight-up tuning, first, and then the bigger pulls to see how much I'm putting down. I only have 3 dyno printouts, and a snapshot from my vid camera on the strongest pull for 10lbs of boost.

As far as my strongest stock pull at 10psi, my 7 put down 243HP/210TQ (I have no idea why it didn't get printed out, I think we were in a hurry or something and printed the wrong one).

I do have a snapshot for proof though, and I'll be posting a vid of the run soon:



Ralph did a really great job of tuning, I think...he took out the huge dip when the transition to the second turbo kicks in...as you can see here in the dynos:


(please excuse the wrong time, and date, and my mis-spelled name )
First Pull

A Middle Pull


And then...he bumped it, up to 12 lbs of boost and got this for my final run of the day. The car was pretty f'ing hot (one of the guys burnt himself, )

Last Pull of the Day



Now my question is....and you knew this was coming....how decent is this for my modifications?

Ralph said that once I get an intercooler and intake, my numbers should jump dramatically. I just don't think I'm able to take much advantage of my streetport either with my current mods. I could have run more boost, too, but Ralph suggested just sticking with 12 for long-term reliability.

Wha'cha think guys? How's my car rate?

More pics and vids to come...plus Ralph's sweet azz FD3S.

apneablue

Just from a comparison stand point, I ran this with a stock motor @ 10psi

Intake / DP / PFC / Ypipe / Catback

ArchangelX

Just outta curiosity, what type of dyno was it on?

I know that the Mustang uses a Virtual Inertia program to simulate load against the vehicle as if it were actually out there pushing itself around, rather than just what the tires rolling on the cylinders like a DynoJet.

My weight setting was 2,900 pounds for my runs and are SAE corrected.

Oh...and as of another additional note...I found out my right rear rim is bent all to hell. Sucker was wobbling on the dyno.

apneablue

**** dude, I don't know...it was the dyno at Rotary Performance...It had a huge wheel that went like many feet into the ground and weighed a bunch of lbs....they strapped my baby down on it and stomped on the pedal that's to the far right of the the other two

ArchangelX

Sounds about right.

ArchangelX

Pics of my 7 on the dyno:

ArchangelX

Okay...now to make my 7 look like a POS, here are pics of Ralph's 500HP+ FD3S...this baby is BADAZZ....








Bigger Rez' Pics of it can be found here:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...49161&start=61

Vids coming soon...

ArchangelX

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4290547955

Vids are located here....

One is of the bent rim, the other is of the first stock pull. The video sure doesn't sound very loud though, even though I practically had my fingers in my ear when he was dyno tuning.

LOSTinWANKELS

dude dont feel bad..that car would make any car look bad...work wheels are the best too

and heatsoak on a dyno will always be a prob...my local dyno has a HUGE fan and it still dosnt mimic real life conditions

mynamegotjacked

I don't think those are Work rims...don't know what they are but I don't think they are Work

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to setup some time for my FD at Ralphs too. Ralph may be more expensive than other shops out there, but the way I see it is that you're paying for his experience and the dyno. I've had Ralph tune bolth of my 7s, and I'm completely happy with bolth of them. He knows the power fc like the back of his hand, and its comforting to know that he knows how to tune a rotary awesome....you know?

Glad your cars running great. CJ

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

I haven't talked to Ralph yet, but my buddy has. Does he do the PFS Purple too?
ArchangelX, PM me and let me know about how much time and money it finally cost you to have him do the tune, I would like to get a rough idea. Thanks.

Regards,
Frank

Cheuk in Seoul

Apneablue's dyno was on a dynojet... inertial weight for these rollers are around 2800 pounds... his numbers are not SAE corrected.

rynberg

I don't know, I hit 240 rwhp/225 (200 without transition) rwtq at 10 psi (actually, boost dropped to 7 after 6k rpm) with just a downpipe and RB cat-back. Numbers are SAE and took place on a low 60s degree day with average humidity at sea level -- in other words, not much correction should have been necessary.

To me, your low-end torque seems very low. I guess that's due to the street-port (makes me reconsider going with one when I get a rebuild). Your high-end isn't spectacular either -- I guess the streetport needs the more open intake and intercooler to shine.

I also don't know if a "Mustang" dyno reads differently than a dynojet. Perhaps the dyno I went to is optimistic but I wouldn't think so. Who knows. Add on an intake and intercooler and see if that opens that streetport up!

poss

iTrader: (5)

load dynos (mustang, mainline, etc.) will typically read 10-15% lower than an inertia dyno (dynojet)

RyanREX

Nice Silver FD's.

LAracer

I admit I know nothing about dyno testing, but is there a reason he let off before 7k rpm? Seems like the power was still climbing when he let off.

SPOautos

Thats a Mustang Dyno and I think they read about 10% low as compared to a Dyno Jet which is what RP has.

This would put you right around 285ish on that 12psi run

STEPHEN

LOSTinWANKELS

look like em to me..but ive been known to be wrong...

ArchangelX

Thanks all...I agree with most of you on getting it done with Ralph's.

I think one of the best things about the experience, was that there was no wait time. As soon as I pulled up into the parking lot, I saw the guys from GZ, and Ralph. Ralph immediatly pointed got me to reverse up into lift for the dyno, and BAM, they just got on it. No waiting, nothin'....almost no introduction either.

Ralph did say that Dynojet's were more generous when it comes to HP & TQ numbers, so I pretty much figure he knows what he's talking about.

The experience was really great....

rynberg

In that case, those are good numbers ArchangelX!

BTW, how's the drivability of the car? Throttle tip-in, smoothness, etc. Did that improve with the tuning?

ArchangelX

Third video is now up..this is the best run...

Here's the rims you guys are talking about..they say MK on them or something.



As far as why he left off so early, he said that the peak power was being reached around 6000+, and that on the dyno with only that little fan providing air current, theres no way for the car to show it's true potential.

He described the turbo as reaching a point where the air is so hot, that it has no volume, so the secondary turbo is getting nothing but super-heated air, and that in real world conditions, the power would be much greater. He said at 80mph, there would be such a huge concentration of air flowing into the intercooler and air intake, that the charge would be much, much cooler.

He tuned for that, in fact..he was less concerned with how much I was putting out on the dyno, but how my car would react when I was at speed.

I too, think he let off too early, but as you can see..my torque is really dropping off. I think I could have made more HP, but only a little more as it was slowly declining.

How far should he have gone? I thought there was a point in our RPM range where we're not making much power, because the turbo's can't hold boost? Am I wrong?

SPOautos

Hey ArchangelX, I just noticed in your sig you have Koni yellows, do you happen to remember what height settings you used? It looks like you have the stock wheels like me and your running the Eibach springs also, I'm trying to figure out what settings to use. You can just PM me if you dont want to clutter up your thread with that info.

BTW - I mentioned in my other post that the Mustang read 10% lower than a dynojet, and that means your making some good numbers with those mods. You get a mp and intake and you'll be right around 330ish and running low/mid 12's on drag radials

Thanks man,
STEPHEN

LOSTinWANKELS

ok i said i was known to be wrong...yea this is one of those times...but they do look verry similar

ArchangelX

Ah..no big deal...the Koni's are set at their highest perch setting. From what I've gathered, if you put them any lower on the fronts, at least, they'll rub. If I corner REALLY hard, I still get some rubbing on my right forward tire.

Thanks for the input, guys....

As far as the driveability goes.....DAAAAYAM...the difference was simply phenomenal...As you can see in that last dyno, that little dip in the powerband from the secondary turbo is now GONE. It's very smooth, the car feels less sluggish, more powerful...and the idle and WOT sound has become more...defining, I guess you could say.

Before..when I got on it, and hit 4500, I'd feel a little dip in power, like it was a cam switch or VTEC or something like that..but now..it's extremely smooth and very linear.

That last dyno shows how much more smoother it is....but if you'll notice...I'm not making as much power as I was in the beginning. Weird.

Also..I learned a new trick for those of us with idle problems. There's a part underneath our UIM that some of us have replaced with a block-off plate. I can't remember what part it is..I'll look it up...but apparently..it's the cause of our idle problems. Ralph said to leave it on, do not use the blockoff plate, but just don't plug it in....he said that he's tested and tested, and this is the simple cause for the "my idle just isn't right problem".

I've had a problem with my idle just not staying steady, and having those modulation problems. I can't wait to put the old part back on and try it....