Finally got my wheels in....pics.
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Finally got my wheels in....pics.
Ok, so I promise this will be the last pictures I post for a while but I just put my new wheels and tires on. ASA AR1 17x8 Front and 17x9 Rear. Mounted on them are Dunlop Direzzas 235/45 Front and 265/40 Rear. All brand new from Tirerack.com.
I'm really digging these wheels and tires but is it just me or is the rear sitting a little to high. I have Eibach Springs and Koni Yellows. How can I get that wheel-to-fender space smaller on the rear? Is it as simple as adjusting my Konies? Thanks - Brad
I'm really digging these wheels and tires but is it just me or is the rear sitting a little to high. I have Eibach Springs and Koni Yellows. How can I get that wheel-to-fender space smaller on the rear? Is it as simple as adjusting my Konies? Thanks - Brad
Last edited by hus; 05-02-06 at 03:12 PM.
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Originally Posted by Barban
Are the koni's the ones with the adjustable perch?
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You can set them on the lowest perch in the back, that will lower an additional 1/2-3/4". The unfortunate thing is you will have to remove the shocks from the vehicle, use a spring compressor, and move the spring seats to the lower perch.
Looking at your car, it's hard to believe you have Eibachs. Usually, the rear is lowered further than that.
Looking at your car, it's hard to believe you have Eibachs. Usually, the rear is lowered further than that.
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Looking at your car, it's hard to believe you have Eibachs. Usually, the rear is lowered further than that.
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looks damn good dude...how much did those set you back if you dont mind me asking? also as far as handeling..how do you like em..im on cruise saveing up money right now and so that when i get home ill have about 1200 burning a hole in my pocket..
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Originally Posted by hus
Yes. When I bought the car it was set to the stiffest level, so I turned all of them back 360 degrees. It made the ride smoother but I didn't noticed a difference in the rear heighth with the stock rims and the 225 size tires. I'll try adjusting when I get home this afternoon. I went home for lunch and slapped these badboys on
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Thanks for all the compliments guys Really makes me feel good that other people appreciate it.
Almost $1400 to my door. Of course they come with tires mounted and balanced. All I had to do was bolt'em on. I highly recommend Tirerack.com for you shoppers. They are very professional.
By the way: +35mm offset up front and +45mm offset in the rear. That's for you guys that are wondering if it's ok to go below the +40mm mark. It is with these wheels they are pretty flush with the fenders.
Originally Posted by riptor
...how much did those set you back if you dont mind me asking? also as far as handeling..how do you like em...
By the way: +35mm offset up front and +45mm offset in the rear. That's for you guys that are wondering if it's ok to go below the +40mm mark. It is with these wheels they are pretty flush with the fenders.
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Originally Posted by spekdah
I dont know whats cleaner, Your FD or your neighbourhood!
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Originally Posted by wan
What you did was adjust the "stiffness" setting and not the actual ride height. To adjust the ride height, you will have to physically take the shocks out and adjust the spring perch in the rear. Its pretty easy if you have basic mechanic skills.
The Koni Yellows come with a sheet of instructions that show in detailed pictures how many turns to turn these tops depending on the type of driving you are going to be doing. For example, one pic shows the tool turning these tops with "360 degree ++" written out beside it....this of course is for the stiffest setting for sport driving, like when I went to Deal's Gap this year. And then I turned them back one full 360 degrees for the trip on the interstate back home. That's all I have to say about that
Last edited by hus; 05-02-06 at 10:14 PM.
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You're describing the dampening adjustment. That's just for ride stiffness, not ride height.
On Konis, the lower spring perch (silver) is seperate from the shock body (yellow) and located by a little "C" clip that fits into one of three grooves about 1/8" apart on the shock body. To adjust height w/ this perch, you'll need to remove the shock and disassemble the the spring/upper mount portion. Then you'd relocate the "C" clip to one of the other grooves in the shock body... in your case, it's likely that all of your shocks have the clips in the highest of the three. You want to pull the rears, and put them in the middle groove. Then when you push the perch back on and reassemble and reinstall, it will allow the suspension to compress that much further at rest, thus changing the ride height.
Note: Even though the groove might be 1/8" from the next one, the ride height will change more than 1/8". One groove to the next represents about 3/8" worth of actual ride height.
On Konis, the lower spring perch (silver) is seperate from the shock body (yellow) and located by a little "C" clip that fits into one of three grooves about 1/8" apart on the shock body. To adjust height w/ this perch, you'll need to remove the shock and disassemble the the spring/upper mount portion. Then you'd relocate the "C" clip to one of the other grooves in the shock body... in your case, it's likely that all of your shocks have the clips in the highest of the three. You want to pull the rears, and put them in the middle groove. Then when you push the perch back on and reassemble and reinstall, it will allow the suspension to compress that much further at rest, thus changing the ride height.
Note: Even though the groove might be 1/8" from the next one, the ride height will change more than 1/8". One groove to the next represents about 3/8" worth of actual ride height.
Originally Posted by hus
Wan, I'm not a bigtime knowledgable guy when it comes to suspension but I'll explain the best I can. The Koni Yellows come with a little white adjustment tool to turn the tops of the struts and shocks...in otherwords the tops that are visible in the engine bay around the strut bar and in the trunk just behind the tops of the driver's seat and passenger's seat. They can be adjusted at anytime by using this tool.
The Koni Yellows come with a sheet of instructions that show in detailed pictures how many turns to turn these tops depending on the type of driving you are going to be doing. For example, one pic shows the tool turning these tops with "360 degree ++" written out beside it....this of course is for the stiffest setting for sport driving, like when I went to Deal's Gap this year. And then I turned them back one full 360 degrees for the trip on the interstate back home. That's all I have to say about that
The Koni Yellows come with a sheet of instructions that show in detailed pictures how many turns to turn these tops depending on the type of driving you are going to be doing. For example, one pic shows the tool turning these tops with "360 degree ++" written out beside it....this of course is for the stiffest setting for sport driving, like when I went to Deal's Gap this year. And then I turned them back one full 360 degrees for the trip on the interstate back home. That's all I have to say about that
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Originally Posted by HDP
How many miles on the Eibachs? Sometimes brand new springs take a little while to settle down.
But check this out. My driveway is pretty steep and when it's parked the way it is in the picture here, I've of course got the emergency brake on. When I took my car and parked it out on the street on a flat surface, the gap between the rear wheel and the fender didn't look nowhere near as great and the gap up front was not as close but still looked good. What's that about? Is it just the steepness of my driveway causing the front end to squat and the back to raise cause the majority of the weight is up front?
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