mykah89

iTrader: (4)

Well i spent the day pulling my transmission, it was hard to get into 5th/reverse and was grinding 5th every time, so i figure while winter is coming i might as well have it rebuilt and completely cleaned up so its good to go for next summer... while its out i plan on replacing the clutch and a couple of other little things, any recommendations on things that i should be checking for and replacing while i have it out... Speaking of which.. i have no prior knowledge of this cars history, whats the best way to verify that the stock clutch is indeed still on the car?

Also i have oil residue and what i believe is a slight oil leak coming from the oil pan, is there any way to fix this.. a search yielded me the result of buying garfinkles oil pan brace... will that completely take care of the problem? Is their an alternative?

Thanks in advance

83/86Rx7

iTrader: (2)

I say while the trannys out, replace the rear main seal. I had mine go just a few weeks after replacing the clutch in my '83.

GARCO MOTORWORKS

Oil leak ,,clean the pan surface and the motor serface and get all the old sealer out of the bolt holes .Reseal the pan without a gasket using the best sealer you can get .Let it cure per directions before adding oil .If the tranny just needs the fifth gear ring then just do that and save your money unless it is a high mileage unit .I get seventy to one hundred dollars to clean a tranny ,flush it and put in the fifth gear ring . Do you need the pan brace ??

danny hahn

I've thought this is a time one could consider torquing the rotor housing bolts.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Remove the flywheel, depending on condition, resurface
Re-torque tension bolts
New Pilot bearing
New clutch fork, especially if you upgrade the pressure plate
New rear transmission seal
New shift select spindle

mykah89

iTrader: (4)

Ok, flywheel was apparently replaced 7000 miles ago (or so i was told) or so with a lightweight one ,does this still need removing.

Do clutch forks come in upgraded versions or it just is what it is?


Also since i have a very vague history of this car,, and im going to sound like an *** here for not completely understanding what im talking about (trying to learn here) There is an orange ring on the engine which i have seen as different colors in aftermarket clutch kits, is orange stock... or is there a way i can verify if it is?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If the flywheel is that new, it's probably OK but it would still have to be removed to re-torque the tension bolts and replace the pilot bearing. I don't think clutch forks really come in upgraded versions, but have been known to fatique and fail over time, especially after you've upgraded (stiffer/stronger) the pressure plate. IIRC the factory pressure plate was blue if that helps you any.

mykah89

iTrader: (4)

Anyone able to tell me whether or not this is stock or not?

DigDug

Looks like a Centerforce to me. That's their standard orange color.

mykah89

iTrader: (4)

I looked at the clutch closer for any type of marking on it and all i could find was made in japan,, so perhaps it is stock?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

No, I don't think so. Those "fingers" don't look right for stock and IIRC, it's similar to a "FORD blue".

mykah89

iTrader: (4)

Anything i could get more pictures of or look at to help identify this?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

-----> http://www.mazdatrix.com/f93-95.htm

flunkysama

iTrader: (4)

I did mine a few months back. Here's some hints in addition to what others have said.

* I'm pretty sure I had an original clutch. It had the Daikin label on it. Plain gray color. Ask and I post a picture.

*Any signs of seepage around front spindle or rear tailhousing, then replace the seals. Or just replace them to be sure.

* Pull the cover off the bottom of the main case. There a magnet on that cover that's probably loaded with little metal bits. The rear drain plug is also a magnet. Clean them.

* Don't expect the problems to be visually obvious. Carefully inspect the sleeve that the syncros engage into. If you feel any burrs on any part, replace it.

* Pulling the flywheel can be a huge pain. If there are no signs of leaking from the rear main seal and you don't feel ambitious, no one will blame you for leaving it on.

* The Pilot bearing is pretty much impossible to pull with a special tool. A Special tool that is expensive and not locally available. I made one out of threaded rod and a few dollars in parts. Maybe, someday, I'll do a write up on it.

* Take pictures. Watch out of little ball bearings, springs and other little bits. As you disassemble, wipe clean and mark with a sharpie.

* Pull the 5th/revearse shift rod out too far and the shift interlock bits will fall out.
It's a pain to get them back in correctly and the manual isn't much help.

* Use Redline MTL or a good oil designed for manual transmissions, not a super slick synthetic GL-5. The right amount of drag is good when you are changing gears.

That's all I can think of for now.