Kriss

iTrader: (1)

Hello!
I'm going to take my baby (a 1996 Efini RX-7 Bathurst ed.) at the beginning of march.
She has this engine's mods:
- Blitz SUS air intake
- Blitz BOv
- Blitz turbo timer and gauge
- Blitz NUR Spec exhaust

I have the chance to get more work done on it from a skilled mechanic before I'll take her.
I was thinking about a front mount intercooler (Greddy M-Spec replica), but I was concerning about downpipe.
Can I go with intercooler with no problem or I got to change downpipe first?

What's your advice?
Thanks guys...

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

you should get some reliability mods done first.

-downpipe
-silicone vacuum lines
-boost/water temp gauges

i also recommend

-getting all new fluids(oil, tranny, gearbox, ex..)
-good coolant flush
-new spark plugs

-boost controller
-engine management(if your running above stock boost. which it sounds like you are)

try and use the search engine, you will prob find all you need

Kriss

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mate!

I've used "search", and find a lot of good advice, but not to clear my doubts.

The problem is that in my city there isn't any mechanic with experience in rotary engine.
In uk, where I'm going to take the car, they have more experience.
So I was thinking in making them do some hard/difficult work (intercooler, downpipe) and then, back to Italy, make the mods I can make myself or with a regular mechanic: vacuum hose, AST replacement, water temp gauge, ECU (trying to take Apex'i power fc), spark plugs.

The seller tells me oil and coolant are fresh changed, and I can trust him.

What do you think about my "plan"?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You do not really need a downpipe because the downpipe is only a problem for US/Canada FDs. The aftermarket ones flow better than stock, which helps performance more than reliability. Take care if your car is RHD that you need a downpipe designed to pass around the steering axle.

Since your car is being imported, I suggest you get a compression test done and also have the coolant seals checked out. Then get all maintenance 100% up to date.

For a car with stock ECU and fuel system, it is most important that you keep your boost level under good control. If it doesn't have a boost gauge you should get one installed. If your mods make the boost increase, then you need to install a boost controller.

I suggest you keep the main catalytic converter in for now. With it removed, it gets a lot harder to keep the boost under good control, plus a straight exhaust car stinks something nasty.

Kriss

iTrader: (1)

The car have a boost gauge indeed (from Blitz too).

Is a car imported from japan to UK last year, RHD of course. Is of the Bathurst limited edition, produced in semptember 1995.
I had the JDM VIN number, if this can help in identifing.

dgeesaman: so you say I can go with intercooler as long as I can monitor my boost, right?
I have to take her, bring to Italy (2000 km in 2 and half days...) and then do all the tests/manteince, including begin with reliability mods like vacuum hose, AST, water temp gauge...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

An intercooler is a good idea even if you aren't increasing the boost. Why? It will be more efficient than the stock unit, thus allowing your turbos to not work as hard (i.e. increasing longevity) to produce the same amount of boost. This also increases the turbos' responsiveness since they aren't working as hard to produce the desired boost level.

Your original list looks good, but I would drop the turbo timer and replace it with an electronic boost controller. Whether you are increasing the boost or not, it's a good idea to have one as it will help control boost spiking as you modify your car. Adding an aftermarket intake can and will increase the likelihood of boost spikes.

As for which mechanic to do what work, something like vacuum line replacement is going to be much more difficult than something like and exhaust change. You are better off having the "star mechanics" do the maintenance work and then having your local mechanic do the upgrades. It's much easier to troubleshoot if something goes wrong with an upgrade than doing regular maintenance.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

I agree. I would have the RX7 experienced mechanic do the vac line replacement than some other mechanic. There are tons of them in there and if he/she is unexperienced it can get real confusing real fast. Although I would really even recommend you do this yourself (one hose at a time) to give you a better understanding of your new car and the way the twin-sequential turbo system works.

Ditch the turbo timer, it is not needed. Get a decent boost controller and a water temp gauge. Exhaust is very easy to replace and you could do that in your driveway but heed the advice of others and leave the main cat in for now. Congrats with your new purchase and at the top of the section there are stickies with most all this kind of information at your fingertips. Take your time, there is a TON of reading.

Kriss

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everybody!!!

I know that the "search" function is to use and abuse (), but this trhead is very usefull to me.

I've decided to do the vacuum hose work by myself, with a little hel from a mechanic fellow, with no experience on rotors (like everyone's here) but the will to learn.
And, most important of all, he will not charge me for the works (I will airbrush his motorbike for free, though).
I'll also change AST and, as soon as I can buy one put on the Power FC with boost controller.
I will wait for the downpipe.
And, if course, I will not push the car too hard untill everything is done!!!

You don't imagine how much FD are rare here in Italy...

I will make the intercooler job, because the car have to attend to a car show at the end of march and, as I work as importer, I need a stunning engine bay to impress my customer...
So it would be with IC, all piping work (polished aluminium), polished AST, UIM and throttle, silicone vacuum hose.

Rise and shine!!!