Noted. Thanks for the input.

 

The issue that arises is water and or in most cases water / meth deteriorates it pretty rapidly. Unless I’m supremely confident, I won’t recommend a product. I believe currently Jason @ Jp3 Motorsports has the only option readily available. It is included in his throttlebody refurbished though.


~ GW

 

It would be nice to know what he uses.

 

but if you didn't use meth? it would be ok?
i actually used paint, but there is room for improvement

 

Evo ,

He sells it as a package deal. I wouldn’t share that information either. I will say the quality of their refinishing is like any of their other offerings, Top-notch.


Mike,

I can’t really speak to that. When I’m looking for a replacement, I want equal to or greater than. I can’t imagine paint really did much. The OEM coating is a soft rubbery material that the blades seal against. I think most would be totally fine if they just didn’t actively try to remove it. I mistakenly removed it all on the initial one I did. After trying a bunch of different options, I didn’t see anything last. In the end I just restored another throttle body. It was a learning experience. At this stage I don’t have the need for any additional throttle bodies nor the desire to restore them so I’ve not actively searched in quite some time. I would probably just send it off to Jason @ JP3 if I need one done.


~ GW

 

"I believe his has been bored by an aftermarket company."

no, i run the stock butterflies as they are way larger than the LIM runners. my TB is ported and polished to deliver a bit less drag. i
also closed the fifty cent piece (remember them?) sized hole located around 7 o'clock. JB Weld and then clear coat so as to stand up to meth. it is looking good after 5 years.

one item i found interesting, that has been commented upon on this forum, is that the two secondaries do not fully open... maybe 5 or 10 degrees off. looking at the linkage it is clear that Mazda wanted it so. perhaps something to do w the flow thru the DTs or into the UIM. past my paygrade but since i am now running the new Turbosource UIM which just has a big opening it would be of some small benefit to get the throttle plates to 90 degrees. the tab just needs a small amount of metal welded to it or?

 

Howard,

The secondary blades do have a mechanical adjustment on the linkage. You can adjust that by bending the folded over linkage assembly stop, which will move the stopping point. I have made adjustments to that. This will also change the staged opening of the primary to secondary point as well. Making adjustment to the secondary stop as I’ve mentioned will make the secondary stage later than the Oem. I have made adjustments so that my secondary is open fully and made other adjustments so the primary to secondary staging is correct. When I say correct, I mean to match factory. I will say however though this only matters on the factory UIM and Oem throttle body. If you are running an open plenum uim it is my opinion they should all be opening together at the same time. It’s a bit of a rabbit hole and sorta beyond the scope of this thread. One thing I have noticed is how many people don’t actually have the throttle cable adjusted correctly, allowing them to actually reach the throttle opening stop when the accelerator pedal is depressed fully.


~ GW

 

i wasn't planning on re-smoking my motor after the TB tune up as my increase in idle volume answered the question as to leakage. a couple of days ago i heard the tell of a boost leak so i did end up smoking the motor yesterday... i found a loose clamp that solved the boost leak but also did notice Zero smoke coming from the TB shafts... so def was a fix.

i am surprised that at 110 K i had the leakage. of course it wouldn't have made one hp diff but was a factor at idle.

 

The quad rings that they used to seal the shafts are pretty hardy. They have a double sealing surface. I don’t think it’s a mileage related thing at this point. It’s an age thing now. Nothing last forever


~ GW

 

How did you finish the hardware parts? Did you have them chromed?
Thanks
Mike

 

I used two tooth picks to carefully remove the seals from the throttle body.
Then used one toothpick and my fingerers to put them back in place after cleaning and giving them a coating of silicon grease.

 

As I rebuilt my throttle body I polished the rims of the throttle plates. In doing so I now have light showing at certain areas around the plates where I polished too much!
I feel confident that I can compensate for the extra air flow by adjusting the idle speed screw at the top of the throttle body.

Please feel free to comment on my idea!

 

Hi all - as stated above, we do offer a full rebuild service. More details here: https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...dy-restoration

 

Anyone have the actual specs of the 5x x ring seals needed I’m in the UK and would like to get some locally
tia

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...rbish-1144243/

 

Thanks managed to source some in the UK
anyone know the specs on the idle air adjustment screw seal?

 

Just to add my experience to the knowledge base:

I used the proper JIS Screwdriver bit manually as I have previously experienced striped sockets when trying to remove stuck phillips head screws with my battery impact screwdriver. The sockets on 3 began to deform. I managed to get one more to move with a well fitting flat head screwdriver but I would not recommend that as a first option.

In hindsight, I should have just used the impact driver. The outcome couldn’t have been much worse.

I drilled the heads of the remaining 2 screws with a 4mm drill held very square. When the drill gets close to the base of the head the material yielded allowing the screw head to rotate ever so slightly. This is your signal to stop, and the screw can be undone with a flat head screwdriver.

Evidently Mazda did not use a locking compound on the screws.

If you go too far and the head comes off, then a small drill and a baby screw extractor should do the job as long as they haven’t been loctited.

On installation a torque of 2.5 Nm (22 in lbs) was starting to stress the socket and I would regard that as the upper limit.

Just to be sure I put a drop of Loctite 290 wick in on the exposed threads. That is guaranteed to present problems if I ever need to repeat this exercise.

There was plenty of daylight visible around the throttle plates. A coating of Tomei Throttle Coat fixed this. Here’s hoping that it proves to be as long lasting as the factory compound.

 

Metric Seals do not ship outside the USA, Canada and Mexico and I could not find an alternate source of 10 x 2.5 quad rings so I have investigated alternatives, starting with the measuring up the existing seals.

Firstly, the existing seals came out very soft, a lot softer than the usual Duro 70 for nitrile o-rings and quad seals. They are too small for me to get a hardness reading with my equipment but by feel I am guessing Duro 60 or less but probably not as low as 40. Were they manufactured soft to keep friction down or have they softened from 26 years of hydrocarbon exposure? I guess that we will never know but practically we have little choice to opt for Duro 70 and maybe live with a little more friction than OEM.

Now to sizes. Quad rings and O-rings are hard to measure using contact measuring instruments and the softer the ring the more operator dependent the measurements become. You would also expect to see some permanent compression set. Nevertheless, after a lot of mucking about I'm quite confident of these measurements:

• Seal width: 2.45
• Primary Throttle Shaft Diameter: 9.965 to 9.968. (I would have liked to also get a groove diameter but that requires specialist instruments that I no longer have access to.)
• Average OD of seal mounted on shaft: 14.65
• Calculated section height of seal when mounted: 2.342
• Calculated ID of seal assuming 2.4mm section height and neglecting OD expansion when mounted on the shaft: 9.85

Standard quad ring sizes match standard O-ring sizes. It just so happens that a Japanese Standard P10A O-ring has a 9.8 inside diameter and a 2.4 section height so I am pretty confident stating that the OEM size is 9.8 x 2.4.

I cannot find a 9.8 x 2.4 quad ring (also known as X-Rings) listed anywhere. So, if we can’t find a 9.8 x 2.4 quad ring, let alone a soft one where do we go next?

We could use a 9.8 x 2.4 Duro 70 o-ring; but quad rings in this application have a couple of advantages: pressure tends to activate the sealing lips and the external lips act a dirt excluders.

If, as I was, you are set on retaining a quad ring, the next closest to 10 x 2.5 I could find was a 9.8 x 2.62 quad ring here: https://www.robaraindustries.com/en/...-70-shore.html. They sell to most but not all countries but be warned; on the 2 occasions I have ordered from them the seals took around 5 weeks to arrive.

Now, stuffing a harder oversize seal into a housing is going to increase the friction on the shaft and it is notably stiffer to rotate, but the return springs are still orders of magnitude stronger. All the same, if you go down this path you need to be aware of the potential risks, be a person who is in tune with their vehicle, and keep an eye on things.

There is not a lot you can do about the friction other than assemble with a light oil. The shafts already have a low friction surface finish but I complemented it with a very light spray of Molybond L221 solid film lubricant.

So, running through the off the shelf options in order of preference:

1. If you smoke test and the primary shaft, throttle cable end seal is the only culprit consider replacing just that one with an oversize seal because that is where the wear takes place.

2. 9.8 x 2.4 Nitrile 70 quad ring. Good luck trying to find one and maybe go up a size at the throttle cable end.

3. 9.8 x 2.4 Nitrile 70 O-ring. Should work OK. Maybe go up a size at the throttle cable end.

4. 10 x 2.5 Nitrile 70 quad ring. Seems to be only available in USA, Canada & Mexico

5. 9.8 x 2.62 Nitrile 70 quad ring. More friction but seems to be within safe limits.