seeking7's

Lookin at FD's... wondering if its worth it to find an R1, or should I just be looking at touring models for the lower price point... ?

I wish to spend a moderate amount of time at the track. I am used to running less competitive track events, but I still want a setup that just WONT BREAK... thats my #1 goal, over and above super-performance. Willing to only spend about $1000 in suspension mods... and suggestions there?

Thanks!

Montego

iTrader: (1)

if you are going to spend lots of time at the track why hold out for an r1/r2? I mean, since you are most likely going to upgrade the parts that make it an r1/r2 anyway (suspension, and oil coolers).

chinaman

As far as the suspension is concerned, I believe the only difference in the R1 and the other models is; the R1 has a strut brace and the spring rates are different. Is this correct? Anyone, anyone? You're most likely going to change the springs and shocks anyway. With the budget you posted, the advantage the R1 has is a little more hp and you won't have to worry about buying a strut brace.
^^^That's right montego, forgot about the oil coolers.

DamonB

Wha?

The FD drivetrain comes in exactly two flavors: Manual and Automatic. The engine/turbo is the same in all the US cars.

Seeking7, you should be looking for the cleanest manual trans car you can find. Turning a base or touring model into an R1 is easily (and cheaply) done. The only real goodies the R1 has is the extra oil cooler and stiffer shocks. These are easily added to any FD.

These cars are old enough I wouldn't bother to shop for particular options, just buy the best one you can find.

seeking7's

Good point. Im looking at one on autotrader, that is a 1994 R2... and its price point is high (18K) because of model "rarity"...and its not too clean. I dont necessarily think thats worth it, even if its at 75,000 miles.

whats the deal with the so-called "upgraded plastics" on the 1994 vs. 1993? I mean, Ill be planning on getting new seats anyways, unless the car has fabric seats, but I want the best interior I can find other than that. Is there anything thats worth looking at specifically in the interior?

-Derek

Nameless

1993 had a smooth finish on their interior plastics... but it subsequently translated into easy chipping. I believe MY94 addressed these problems by having a different surface on the interior. It has a rougher finish.
I prefer the look of the 93, but thats probably because thats what I had.

As Damon pointed out the oil cooler and stiffer suspension can easily be added on to any non R1/R2 vehicle. One thing you will need to think about is the sunroof... can't add or remove that option. I dont like them personally - mainly because its another $$$ part waiting to fail =)

pwwatkins

I never thought I would like a sunroof much, but ended up using it all the time and loving it. I've seen the 93 and 94 dash. The 94 is much better imo.

Nameless

I had a sunroof on a different car fail on me... ever since I just stay away - its just personal preference =)

Dash is a different story since 94 had the passenger airbag. I was just referring to the upgraded finish on the interior plastics.

ZumSpeedRX-7

iTrader: (12)

as far as suspension goes, it's all about what you are planning on building the car for and how much suspension tuning you want to do. for $1,000 you can get stiffer springs and adjustable struts and a strut tower bar. i have a pretty basic suspension set up on my 93 Touring (Adj. Coilovers, F + R Solid Upper Pillow Ball Mounts, F + R Sway Bars, F Sway Bar Brace, Front Strut Tower Bar, Rear Strut Tower/Harness Bar, Trailing Arms, and Toe Links) and it feels awesome on the track and around the Auto Cross. it pretty much comes down to if you want to just install it and leave it or install it and fine tune it.

as for spending the extra money on the R1 or R2, it's been said that its a stiffer, "uncomfortable" ride from the factory, but if you're tracking the car, does it really matter anyways? the R1, as it's been stated, has an additional oil cooler. many companies sell dual upgraded oil coller kits or a single upgraded oil cooler. the strut tower bar is an easy mod and actually tightens the ride noticeably. i wouldnt waste your money on a R1 factory strut tower bar, but they are probably the best looking option. the touring has a sunroof that i find myself often using on the track. the pressure that builds up in the cockpit is at times unbearable on the ears, so i crack it a little to relieve some pressure. plus the lack of A/C (i pulled it out) makes it nice on the highway. if you can get a R1 in good shape at a good price, go for it. if you can only find a base or touring, what's the problem? it's an RX-7.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Well if it fails just keep it closed. It's like not having one at all

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I agree w/ DamonB. Get the best example you can find, sort the details out later.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Touring should be more expensive. A strut bar and a 2nd oil cooler isn't as much as a moonroof and Bose strereo. Anyhow, all the R1/R2 stuff could have been added at the dealer as an option (sunroof & leather seats from the factory). If you want a track car the look at base or the R's. You can add and/or replace the oil coolers and the supsension yourself. The difference on the spring rates is minimal and unoticable except to someone that shouldn't be driving a sports car int he 2st place. $1k won't buy you much (maybe Koni or Gab +springs).