AS the title says my FD pulls to the right under acceleration. I am trying to figure out what would cause this. Under normal cruising, you can let go of the wheel and it will track straight. But, under any kind of acceleration it will pull to the right. The bad part is, when you are really romping on it, it gets really squirrely when you let off of the gas, because it takes a hard left, because there is no more force pulling it right.
I just had a new rack for the r/p installed, along with tie rod ends and a new RB sway bar.
Any body with any thoughts?

 

Could be rear alignment. Any strange sounds?

 

may sound stupid but hows your tire pressure?

 

I would second that. I have a leak in my pass rear tire and it pulls hard to the right under acceleration if I forget to check the air in the tire.

 

Are your tires the same if the pressure is normal? I bought a FD that had miss matched tires and the car would pull one way when I got on it. I got new tires for it shortly afterwards and it fixed the problem.

 

RX7WEEE, you may have hit it on the head. Here's the tire situation:
Worn out Dunlops on the front. New tires on the back, one was a Kumho, one was a Bridgestone Potenza. So, I figured I would be smart and buy one Kumho and one Bridgestone, and at least get the same tires on the same axle. When I went back to the tire store, (they were doing the front end work), and I asked them about pricing for the two new tires) they told me they couldn't find the Bridges or the Kumho in a H rated tire. I am like WTF? H rated tires on this car. How stupid could the previous owner be? Well, I guess after sinking 8k in a new engine and radiator, he didn't feel like paying for a decent tire.
So, to make a long story short, I have two mismatched tires on the rear, and two worn out matching tires on the front.
Alignment was just done.

 

It's time you went to tirerack.com

 

Same thing happened to me. I got a nail in a rear tire at 10k miles, so I replaced it. The car started pulling to the left under acceleration. Apparently the Torsen LSD is very sensitive to a difference in tire circumference. I didn't think 10,000 miles would make that much of a difference, but as soon as I put a second new tire on the rear the problem went away.

 

Seriously, you should stop driving the car fast until you get a proper set of tires on it. Any shop that would let you drive around with mismatched tires doesn't deserve to be in business.

I also recommend www.tirerack.com , look at the Avon Tech M500 , it's a very good tire for the price. If there is an America's Tire Company nearby, they'll special order and install tires from tirerack.com , so you don't have to ship the tires to your house. Free rotation also.



-s-

 

I use tirerack a lot, so I am up to speed on it. I am looking at some Kumho ecsta MX's right now.
And, I am not driving the car fast at all. It has other issues right now, and I don't want to boost much.
And, the tire shop didn't make the decision to drive it, I did. We were trying to decide what route to go, and what tires to put on it.
Thanks for the input.

 

Don't buy the Kuhmos unless you like to burn out. : I have a set and they suck for getting traction. Although I do have 430hp and it smokes the tires all the way through 3rd gear under WOT. They were not much better when I had twins on the car making 350hp.
Keep it in mind. Just a consumer review. Good luck.

 

Ok, any suggestions on tire choices then?
I am not at the 400+ level of hp, but I want a decent tire.

 

The Kumho Ecsta Supras are probably THE WORST performance tire I have ever driven on. Do yourself a favor and buy 4 good matching tires. They don't have to be the most expensiv, but tires are not the place to skimp on a performance car. In my opinion the best dry weather performance tires out right now are the BF Goodrich G-Force KD (all the other g-force tires don't compare) or the Falken Azenis RT 615. If you need to get around in rain the Toyo Proxes T1S is a good rain tire with decent dry traction. I also hear good things about ther Goodyear Eagle GSD-3 but they are pricey.

 

I had the exact same problem you had. When I got on it, the rear end would slide right all the time. For me it turned out to be bad diff mounts. Bad diff mounts will cause the rear end to rotate too much under hard loads. This throws the rear suspension way out of alignment. A lot of times if I would hit a hard corner, the rear end would break loose way too easily causing me to spin out unexpectedly. I would also check your pillow ball bushings. If you have high mileage, it's a very strong chance these two things need replacing.

 

Eqasy way to check, look at the diff bushings. They are fluid filled and when they go bad it oozes out. Might as well check out your entire rear suspension while you are there.