3rd gen. Engine ran after overhaul would die with rapid throttle opening. Timing light showed ignition was cutting out on all four leads. Plugs are new, replaced leads and T1 and leading coils. Same problem. Then it died and wouldn't restart---occasionally fires but won't run. Found no spark during cranking on any lead except L2, and it was intermittent. Primary voltage to T1 showed 12V. Bad igniter? Haven't found a thread on testing 3rd gen igniters.

 

Ignition gurus---what would cause one of the leading plugs to fire but not the other? Don't they both fire at the same time off the same coil? I've got new plugs, leads, and leading coil.

 

I personally don't know but I changed your title so that it better describes this thread. Hopefully the better title will get some eyeballs on the thread. Moving...

 

you replaced the plugs and the coils, but did you replace the wires?

 

need a full modifications list

 

verify if u got voltages at the harness that connects to the ignition coils and to the angle sensor. and verify the wires for integrity. then verify the angle sensor since i did not see that u changed it and at the same time verify for integrity. if all fails then bad news is it could be the ECU.

 

I assumed that my timing light was giving me accurate information. Not so. My light would stop firing at low "cylinder" pressures, when lower voltage is required to jump the plug gap. So I thought the spark was intermittent or nonexistent when it wasn't. I guess my Craftsman inductive light can't pick up through the 8mm wires very well when the spark voltages are low.

I went through the deflooding procedure to get it started again. Now I'm back to where I was---quitting under quick throttle application. But at least now I know that it is still sparking when the engine begins to quit. I pulled a trailing lead and stuck a screwdriver in it, then held the screwdriver near a ground while blipping the throttle to verify this.

So now I'm going to go down other paths---fuel pressure, secondary injectors, timing.

Thanks for the replies. This is a great forum.

 

If you aren't on stock ECU then it's probably a tuning problem

 

The only mods are K&N filter and Flowmaster exhaust. ECU is stock.

I just checked the timing (engine warm, 750 RPM, TEN and GND jumpered) and it is about 10 degrees advanced on the CAS plate (about a third of the way to the next spoke. I'm checking the CAS plate notch against the pin. So wouldn't that be 30 degrees at the rotor?

How can that be? What might my problem be?

I just rebuilt the engine, but I don't think there is a way to get the plate on wrong.

 

OK. I think I have it backwards. That would be 3 degrees at the rotor. Enough to worry about?