3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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FD Front Subframe Install

Old Sep 23, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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FD Front Subframe Install

Anyone know the bolt torque specs for the front subframe? Can't seem to find it in the FSM. Also, are there any alignment issues when bolting back up?

Thanks in advance
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Anyone know the bolt torque specs for the front subframe? Can't seem to find it in the FSM. Also, are there any alignment issues when bolting back up?

Thanks in advance
I used German torque specs on mine as follows:

Min torque spec: gutentite
Max torque spec: fukentite

Alignment? Prob a good idea. You are likely changing the lower arm geometry a bit while the upper arm stays the same... but if you are using the same subframe and made reference marks I could see you getting it back close enough.
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
I used German torque specs on mine as follows:

Min torque spec: gutentite
Max torque spec: fukentite
Yeah, that used to be my guide, until service manuals started indicatcating torque specs which i went by. That is until broke off a brake bleeder screw.

Back to the German torque specs for me

As for alignment, there's not much play in the frame, but there is play. I don't have any reference marks but think (hope) wheel alignment as well as the engine can be aligned via either the suspension or PPF
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
Yeah, that used to be my guide, until service manuals started indicatcating torque specs which i went by. That is until broke off a brake bleeder screw.

Back to the German torque specs for me

As for alignment, there's not much play in the frame, but there is play. I don't have any reference marks but think (hope) wheel alignment as well as the engine can be aligned via either the suspension or PPF
I'll use a torque wrench for certain things like tension bolts for the engine, etc, but I have found it to be dangerous as well. The torque specs are useless if your fasteners have any kind of oil or anti-seize on them. Something I learned after breaking too many fasteners is that lubricants reduce dry torque requirements by ~ 1/3 IIRC.

You could just see how it drives. Did you drop it to reseal the oil pan?
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
lubricants reduce dry torque requirements by ~ 1/3 IIRC.
Wow! Good to know

I dropped the frame to give it a good cleaning and paint touch up. Tightening the bolts "gutentite" in a cross-pattern seemed to self align it. I'm thinking now i should loosen it, loosely attach all the suspension pieces (not on now), and then tighten everything off the jack stands.
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 12:43 AM
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Nuts, bolts, and flange lands need to be cleaned before reinstallation. Please don't take the words above as gospel.

-David Guy
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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 07:20 AM
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I used an impact gun and made it tight. The alignment pins are supposed to keep the sub-frame aligned. You shouldn't need an alignment after removing it as long as your car does not have damage that may affect how well the alignment pins line up the sub-frame to the chassis
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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For those who may happen upon this thread, the torque specs are in section D under Oil Pan removal/installation and is specifically 72.4-86.7 ft-lbf. I had torqued to 66 ft-lb thinking that was gutentite (which it may have been).
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