FD Front Subframe Install
Anyone know the bolt torque specs for the front subframe? Can't seem to find it in the FSM. Also, are there any alignment issues when bolting back up?
Thanks in advance |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 11805915)
Anyone know the bolt torque specs for the front subframe? Can't seem to find it in the FSM. Also, are there any alignment issues when bolting back up?
Thanks in advance Min torque spec: gutentite Max torque spec: fukentite Alignment? Prob a good idea. You are likely changing the lower arm geometry a bit while the upper arm stays the same... but if you are using the same subframe and made reference marks I could see you getting it back close enough. |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 11807537)
I used German torque specs on mine as follows:
Min torque spec: gutentite Max torque spec: fukentite Back to the German torque specs for me :icon_tup: As for alignment, there's not much play in the frame, but there is play. I don't have any reference marks but think (hope) wheel alignment as well as the engine can be aligned via either the suspension or PPF |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 11807555)
Yeah, that used to be my guide, until service manuals started indicatcating torque specs which i went by. That is until broke off a brake bleeder screw.
Back to the German torque specs for me :icon_tup: As for alignment, there's not much play in the frame, but there is play. I don't have any reference marks but think (hope) wheel alignment as well as the engine can be aligned via either the suspension or PPF You could just see how it drives. Did you drop it to reseal the oil pan? |
Originally Posted by alexdimen
(Post 11808779)
lubricants reduce dry torque requirements by ~ 1/3 IIRC.
I dropped the frame to give it a good cleaning and paint touch up. Tightening the bolts "gutentite" in a cross-pattern seemed to self align it. I'm thinking now i should loosen it, loosely attach all the suspension pieces (not on now), and then tighten everything off the jack stands. |
Nuts, bolts, and flange lands need to be cleaned before reinstallation. Please don't take the words above as gospel.
-David Guy |
I used an impact gun and made it tight. The alignment pins are supposed to keep the sub-frame aligned. You shouldn't need an alignment after removing it as long as your car does not have damage that may affect how well the alignment pins line up the sub-frame to the chassis
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For those who may happen upon this thread, the torque specs are in section D under Oil Pan removal/installation and is specifically 72.4-86.7 ft-lbf. I had torqued to 66 ft-lb thinking that was gutentite (which it may have been).
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