FD Dual Auto Down Window Switch
#26
Just bought one and test it in my rhd rx7. First the switch did work both auto down only, no auto up like oem, BUT in a rhd car the switch are inverted, these means my right switch control my passenger window (lhd window) and the left switch control the driver window (rhd window).
Also there is a tab inverted that you have to trim so it can fit and since you are trimming these tab it will be a little loose and not a perfect fit.
Also there is a tab inverted that you have to trim so it can fit and since you are trimming these tab it will be a little loose and not a perfect fit.
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cr-rex (01-19-20)
#28
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I installed this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303385388424
Works great. Auto down on each side. Fitment is great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303385388424
Works great. Auto down on each side. Fitment is great.
#31
Bumping this thread to share my fix for the issue with the window switches being inverted for RHD cars.
As mentioned before this switch fits well enough for the rhd Fd3s but the left switch operates the right window(driver side in rhd) and the right switch operates the left window.
What the fix entails is switching two pairs of pins in the connector jack.
The only tool required would be a small jeweler’s flat head screwdriver or any small device to “de-pin” the connector jack pins. There are many videos on YouTube about de-pinning connector jacks.
The colour of wires used on your window switch may be different but I switched the Blue wire with the White wire and the Green with the Yellow/green stripe.
The left switch should now control the left window and right should control the right. The only issue remaining (which in my opinion is minor) is that the “on/off” window lock switch still locks out the driver side.
As mentioned before this switch fits well enough for the rhd Fd3s but the left switch operates the right window(driver side in rhd) and the right switch operates the left window.
What the fix entails is switching two pairs of pins in the connector jack.
The only tool required would be a small jeweler’s flat head screwdriver or any small device to “de-pin” the connector jack pins. There are many videos on YouTube about de-pinning connector jacks.
The colour of wires used on your window switch may be different but I switched the Blue wire with the White wire and the Green with the Yellow/green stripe.
The left switch should now control the left window and right should control the right. The only issue remaining (which in my opinion is minor) is that the “on/off” window lock switch still locks out the driver side.
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Neo (09-18-21)
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ZaneGT (05-17-22)
#34
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In other types of vehicles I’d agree, but in a 2D 2-seater sports car, statistically speaking that passenger (if any) is usually an adult.
Besides, we survived the late 90’s-00’s with pinched fingers! =D
Bridging the gap from now nearly 30 years with conventional convenience tech is always welcome!
Besides, we survived the late 90’s-00’s with pinched fingers! =D
Bridging the gap from now nearly 30 years with conventional convenience tech is always welcome!
#36
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Hello, anyone have good experience with those switches in 2023? Iam worried about the LHD fitment.
I see many of them on alli/ebay. Any recomendation? Iam in Europe
thanks, Petr
I see many of them on alli/ebay. Any recomendation? Iam in Europe
thanks, Petr
#38
Really cool actually, i would be weary about the amount of copper in the wires and PCB like you said, several heat cycles and suddenly its back to being broken, also the electrical system wire gauges all matter , I know this sounds dumb like Yea i know that but what I mean is that when the system is originally designed it is designed in a specific way, and cutting/extending any wire can lead to problems all over the vehicle, my first FD had a radiator switch problem, it ended up causing a fire in my headlight relay... Very weird electrical systems in these old mazdas. Im no electrical engineer, but maybe someone can contextualize this/explain this better than I can
That being said, If I needed one, I would probably buy it, change the wires out to the appropriate gauge and re solder, that would probably be as good or better than OEM, depends if the board has enough copper/layers to be good, also we could rip the schematic of the board they created and just get it made properly, if needed.
That being said, If I needed one, I would probably buy it, change the wires out to the appropriate gauge and re solder, that would probably be as good or better than OEM, depends if the board has enough copper/layers to be good, also we could rip the schematic of the board they created and just get it made properly, if needed.
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