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I have an 89 convertible. The passenger side window wouldn't go down, which is better than having one that won't go up, but still annoying. Every source I could find said to install a new switch because any fix would hasten failure and require replacement soon anyway. I checked around and a new switch costs about $80. Drivers side switches are much more expensive. To save the $80, I decided to repair the switch. If I screwed it up, I would have to buy a new switch, so I wasn't going to loose anything.
By carefully placing a large screwdriver at the end of the switch cover pressing down and prying back, the switch assembly pops out rather easily. There is a snap connector that releases it from the wiring harness. When I turned it over, there is a white box which is the actual switch mechanism. Gently pulling back a tab on either end of the switch releases it from the assembly. The next step shoud be done with the mechanism inside a large clear plastic bag. The switch itself can be disassembled by gently prying a tab away on each end and three on the back. There are four small springs of two different sizes inside the switch. If you don't use the plastic bag, they can spring out and get lost very easily. Once the switch was opened, I found six round contacts which are connected to the wires and two rectangular contacts (one for up, one for down). Two of the round contacts had some visible wear. Both of the rectangular contacts had some visible wear. The corrosion was black goop which I wiped away. Just for good measure, I burnished the contacts with a pencil eraser, then I re-assembled the switch. I reversed the rectangular contacts so the the worn parts were now on the opposite end. I lost one of the larger springs because I didn't have an clue what I was doing, but I substituted the spring from a ball point pen. I used the plastic bag during re-assembly because I was afraid of loosing a spring is it should pop out which they did a couple of times before I got the hang of it. I reassembled the switch and replaced it in the assembly. I reconnected the wiring and tucked it back into place and snapped the the assembly back into the armrest. Works fine.
Only time will tell how long the repair will last. Every source I read said to clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, but I found this to be unnecessary and spared the switch any damage from that process.
When I repaired my window switch, I had a similar problem. The window would go up, but not down. When I took it apart, one end of the plastic part that holds the spring was cracked. This resulted in not being able to put enough force in moving the switch when I tried to roll the window down. Before I fixed it, I couldn't feel that "bump" when pushing the switch down, but I did when I pulled up. I cleaned the contacts and fixed the crack and so far, it has worked since.
My passenger side window wouldnt work at all from the passengers side switch. It would work fine from the drivers door.
After reading a bit in here, I rocked the master window switch back and forth about 10 times.
My passenger side switch has worked fine ever since.
CRC makes a spray contact cleaner & lube.
They call it 2-26.
Home depot has it in the electrical department for arounf $8.
It's handy for window switches, door lock position switches, the ignition switch, TPS, headlight switch, radio & AC controls.
Ok, I will keep you all posted, just recently my pass. window will not go down from the driver control but it will go up, other than that both windows function normally. i will give the crc 2-26 a try before complete disassembly, Thanks
My passenger side window wouldnt work at all from the passengers side switch. It would work fine from the drivers door.
After reading a bit in here, I rocked the master window switch back and forth about 10 times.
My passenger side switch has worked fine ever since.
I'm confused. whatdo you mean by "rocking the master window switch"?
how the hell do you get the passenger side switch (the one thats one hte passenger side) open to take care of it ... o cant figure it out for htel ife of me
Yeah, same exact thing happened to me too about 15 years ago. I was working on my Master's at the time and just didn't have the time to fix it. I ordered a new replacement switch from my local Mazda dealer. Set me back probably about $160 at the time. Those Mazda prices are ridiculous!
Your repair job looks like an original part. Hopefully, your glue repair job will hold up.
