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Just bought one and test it in my rhd rx7. First the switch did work both auto down only, no auto up like oem, BUT in a rhd car the switch are inverted, these means my right switch control my passenger window (lhd window) and the left switch control the driver window (rhd window).
Also there is a tab inverted that you have to trim so it can fit and since you are trimming these tab it will be a little loose and not a perfect fit.
Bumping this thread to share my fix for the issue with the window switches being inverted for RHD cars.
As mentioned before this switch fits well enough for the rhd Fd3s but the left switch operates the right window(driver side in rhd) and the right switch operates the left window.
What the fix entails is switching two pairs of pins in the connector jack.
The only tool required would be a small jeweler’s flat head screwdriver or any small device to “de-pin” the connector jack pins. There are many videos on YouTube about de-pinning connector jacks.
The colour of wires used on your window switch may be different but I switched the Blue wire with the White wire and the Green with the Yellow/green stripe.
The left switch should now control the left window and right should control the right. The only issue remaining (which in my opinion is minor) is that the “on/off” window lock switch still locks out the driver side.
In other types of vehicles I’d agree, but in a 2D 2-seater sports car, statistically speaking that passenger (if any) is usually an adult.
Besides, we survived the late 90’s-00’s with pinched fingers! =D
Bridging the gap from now nearly 30 years with conventional convenience tech is always welcome!
Hello, anyone have good experience with those switches in 2023? Iam worried about the LHD fitment.
I see many of them on alli/ebay. Any recomendation? Iam in Europe
thanks, Petr
Really cool actually, i would be weary about the amount of copper in the wires and PCB like you said, several heat cycles and suddenly its back to being broken, also the electrical system wire gauges all matter , I know this sounds dumb like Yea i know that but what I mean is that when the system is originally designed it is designed in a specific way, and cutting/extending any wire can lead to problems all over the vehicle, my first FD had a radiator switch problem, it ended up causing a fire in my headlight relay... Very weird electrical systems in these old mazdas. Im no electrical engineer, but maybe someone can contextualize this/explain this better than I can
That being said, If I needed one, I would probably buy it, change the wires out to the appropriate gauge and re solder, that would probably be as good or better than OEM, depends if the board has enough copper/layers to be good, also we could rip the schematic of the board they created and just get it made properly, if needed.
I paid about $15 for it though so I figured it was safe either way.
My auto switch has never worked as far as I can tell, and I've only had it on the driver's side. This one works for both sides though.
I installed 451M relays for the windows at the same time, but before that I tested each switch to verify function, specifically regarding the lock feature, because I wanted to keep that feature with the window relays and I was wiring it myself and unsure exactly how to keep that. It worked properly on both switches, even with the relays. When I installed the new switch, I decided to swap the faceplates since the new one didn't fit perfectly, sticking up on one corner. After swapping those, I've noticed the new switch locks both windows, and the old switch doesn't lock either window. Weird. It's just plastic, I'm not sure why it would make a difference.
I paid about $15 for it though so I figured it was safe either way.
My auto switch has never worked as far as I can tell, and I've only had it on the driver's side. This one works for both sides though.
I installed 451M relays for the windows at the same time, but before that I tested each switch to verify function, specifically regarding the lock feature, because I wanted to keep that feature with the window relays and I was wiring it myself and unsure exactly how to keep that. It worked properly on both switches, even with the relays. When I installed the new switch, I decided to swap the faceplates since the new one didn't fit perfectly, sticking up on one corner. After swapping those, I've noticed the new switch locks both windows, and the old switch doesn't lock either window. Weird. It's just plastic, I'm not sure why it would make a difference.
^Funny you mentioned the 451m relays - I just purchased a pair of those to install on my FD's power windows. I have a set installed on my FC, and they really help, and since adding the 451m's the full motor current no longer flows thru the OEM PW switches, so they basically last forever, and the windows go up/down faster. Anyway, my current OEM '93 FD PW switches lack the auto-down feature. But if you're saying the auto down feature on these cheap E-bay switches still works with the 451m relays added, I might have to try that. BTW, attached is the schematic diagram I made for the 451m installation on a '93 FD - I did this as a "change page" for my '93 FSM wiring diagram.
^Funny you mentioned the 451m relays - I just purchased a pair of those to install on my FD's power windows. I have a set installed on my FC, and they really help, and since adding the 451m's the full motor current no longer flows thru the OEM PW switches, so they basically last forever, and the windows go up/down faster. Anyway, my current OEM '93 FD PW switches lack the auto-down feature. But if you're saying the auto down feature on these cheap E-bay switches still works with the 451m relays added, I might have to try that. BTW, attached is the schematic diagram I made for the 451m installation on a '93 FD - I did this as a "change page" for my '93 FSM wiring diagram.
Oh that's awesome, thanks! I thought about doing a writeup thread, but I'm not very good at making diagrams like that. Also, I've seen those WAGO taps used before, although never on cars, but I thought it would be cool to use.
Yes indeed, my auto down works on both windows now. That was one of the things I wanted to make sure to keep when wiring the relays. I realized the FC off switch cuts power while it cuts ground on the FD, so it still works wiring it the same way.
Oh that's awesome, thanks! I thought about doing a writeup thread, but I'm not very good at making diagrams like that. Also, I've seen those WAGO taps used before, although never on cars, but I thought it would be cool to use.
Yeah, I've never used the WAGO taps before on a car either, but I wanted this mod to be completely plug & play, and easily removable, hence the Deutsch connectors & WAGO tap. I had two concerns with the WAGO tap for automotive wiring - vibration and the fact that they are not environmentally sealed. The seal part is easy to fix - just use some heat shrink DR25 or equivalent tubing to seal up the splice when you're done wiring it. For the vibration/coming loose concern, I decided to do a little destructive bench testing before I was sold on using the WAGO taps. Took a couple of WAGO taps from the pack of 10 that I got and installed different gauge wires from 12AWG thru 20AWG (stranded TXL) and pulled on them until the connection broke. Didn't have any way of measuring the breaking point force, but suffice it to say it took A LOT of force to break any of these connections loose - way more than these connections will ever see in an FD door panel.
BTW, now I notice that I have an error in my schematic - those added Deutsch connectors are all supposed to be DT types, no DTMs. That's so I can completely bypass the 451m's and go back to OEM operation if ever needed.
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
Yes indeed, my auto down works on both windows now. That was one of the things I wanted to make sure to keep when wiring the relays. I realized the FC off switch cuts power while it cuts ground on the FD, so it still works wiring it the same way.
Cool, just ordered the cheap Ebay switch - may as well get that auto down feature while I'm in there!
Fwiw, I don't really like the auto down feature of the OEM switch. I find the auto down is too easy to accidentally trigger when I just want to lower the window a little.
Yeah, I've never used the WAGO taps before on a car either, but I wanted this mod to be completely plug & play, and easily removable, hence the Deutsch connectors & WAGO tap. I had two concerns with the WAGO tap for automotive wiring - vibration and the fact that they are not environmentally sealed. The seal part is easy to fix - just use some heat shrink DR25 or equivalent tubing to seal up the splice when you're done wiring it. For the vibration/coming loose concern, I decided to do a little destructive bench testing before I was sold on using the WAGO taps. Took a couple of WAGO taps from the pack of 10 that I got and installed different gauge wires from 12AWG thru 20AWG (stranded TXL) and pulled on them until the connection broke. Didn't have any way of measuring the breaking point force, but suffice it to say it took A LOT of force to break any of these connections loose - way more than these connections will ever see in an FD door panel.
I like that the WAGO taps are so quick and easy to connect.
I also like that the 451M has both relays in one small package, but it sucks that you can't replace just the relay itself without having to rewire it completely, which is one reason I considered just using a couple small individual relays. It seems these rarely fail though so I guess it's a moot point.
I wouldn't worry too much about sealing anyway, none of the stock connectors on the window wiring (or most of the door harness actually) are sealed.
Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
BTW, now I notice that I have an error in my schematic - those added Deutsch connectors are all supposed to be DT types, no DTMs. That's so I can completely bypass the 451m's and go back to OEM operation if ever needed.
I'm a little confused on how and where you're using the Deutsch connectors. Are you replacing the stock connectors with those, or just using them in between the stock connectors? Because I just used stock connectors to make the harnesses and they can be removed and go back to stock configuration if needed.
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
Fwiw, I don't really like the auto down feature of the OEM switch. I find the auto down is too easy to accidentally trigger when I just want to lower the window a little.
On my switch, it's very easy to not engage the auto down feature. You just don't press as hard. And it's a noticeable difference in the pressure needed. I will say that I've noticed when rolling the windows back up after using auto down feature that I have to click up on the buttons twice to get them to move, I guess the first time is to disengage auto down. It's a little annoying but not too bad, and I'm sure I'll get used to it.
I like that the WAGO taps are so quick and easy to connect.
I also like that the 451M has both relays in one small package, but it sucks that you can't replace just the relay itself without having to rewire it completely, which is one reason I considered just using a couple small individual relays. It seems these rarely fail though so I guess it's a moot point.
I wouldn't worry too much about sealing anyway, none of the stock connectors on the window wiring (or most of the door harness actually) are sealed.
True enough on the sealing, I'm a little OCD and just like all my electrical connections outside the cabin to be water tight - the inside of the door panels can get exposed to moisture. I've had the 451m's in my FC for about 8 years now with zero problems, so I wouldn't worry too much about them failing. And the 451's are still cheap & readily available - IIRC, the ones I just got for my FD were off of Amazon for about $11 each.
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
I'm a little confused on how and where you're using the Deutsch connectors. Are you replacing the stock connectors with those, or just using them in between the stock connectors? Because I just used stock connectors to make the harnesses and they can be removed and go back to stock configuration if needed.
I'm not replacing any of the OEM connectors with the Deutsch DT connectors; I'm adding them in at the splices as shown on the schematic where the 451m's get wired in between the OEM switches and OEM motors. Probably should do a better job labeling those DT connectors and making better notes in the schematic. But the idea is you just disconnect the DT connectors to isolate the 451m's and then plug the DT connectors on the OEM switch end and the OEM motor ends together, which returns the circuit back to stock (with an added DT connector in between). Then you can remove the +12VDC power tap for the 451m's at the WAGO taps to completely isolate the 451m's. Make sense?
Edit - Updated my schematic to clarify, see attached.
Last edited by Pete_89T2; Nov 29, 2024 at 07:16 AM.
True enough on the sealing, I'm a little OCD and just like all my electrical connections outside the cabin to be water tight - the inside of the door panels can get exposed to moisture. I've had the 451m's in my FC for about 8 years now with zero problems, so I wouldn't worry too much about them failing. And the 451's are still cheap & readily available - IIRC, the ones I just got for my FD were off of Amazon for about $11 each.
Oh I completely understand. I prefer having sealed connections INSIDE the cabin as well lol. But I at least try to make all the ones outside the cabin sealed. Good to know about the 451Ms, it didn't seem like they failed very often.
Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
I'm not replacing any of the OEM connectors with the Deutsch DT connectors; I'm adding them in at the splices as shown on the schematic where the 451m's get wired in between the OEM switches and OEM motors. Probably should do a better job labeling those DT connectors and making better notes in the schematic. But the idea is you just disconnect the DT connectors to isolate the 451m's and then plug the DT connectors on the OEM switch end and the OEM motor ends together, which returns the circuit back to stock (with an added DT connector in between). Then you can remove the +12VDC power tap for the 451m's at the WAGO taps to completely isolate the 451m's. Make sense?
Edit - Updated my schematic to clarify, see attached.
from fellow fossil (68).
