FD 13brew assembly
09-06-10, 04:41 AM
#1
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FD 13brew assembly
Hey all you guys out there, I am reaching out for a helping hand in my project.
I have just had my engine rebuilt and I'm ready to start putting it back together ready for installing in the car, but as I'm not a mechanic I don't know the correct process for bolting on all the bits for the rest of the engine. When I bought the car it already had a blown engine and was in pieces otherwise I would have made notes of how it all came off. I have googled for ages on any info detailing step by step how to reassemble the complete motor but havn't managed to find anything that would help me to do it all.
Has someone out there got pics of their breakdown when they rebuilt their engine or something along those lines?
Much appreciated all help you can give guys, Cheers
Adam.
I have just had my engine rebuilt and I'm ready to start putting it back together ready for installing in the car, but as I'm not a mechanic I don't know the correct process for bolting on all the bits for the rest of the engine. When I bought the car it already had a blown engine and was in pieces otherwise I would have made notes of how it all came off. I have googled for ages on any info detailing step by step how to reassemble the complete motor but havn't managed to find anything that would help me to do it all.
Has someone out there got pics of their breakdown when they rebuilt their engine or something along those lines?
Much appreciated all help you can give guys, Cheers
Adam.
09-06-10, 11:48 AM
#4
Weird Cat Man
You should be able to download the shop manual in PDF form. I dont' know what year your car is, but as far as I know, all the years are similar enough that you can just use the same manual (at least for the USA where we only got 1993-1995 FD RX-7s).
Here are a few tips for things to watch out for since you didn't take the car apart yourself (and could even be missing parts!).
1 - The water pump mounts at something like 6 points. 4 of the points have a gasket, the other two use very thin washers to make it sit flat. The manual shows this as two very thin washers connected by a strip of metal like this o-----o , but on MY car - a 1993 - there are actually two very thin washers that are separate pieces. Don't forget the washers or you will have a leak.
2 - The oil pump needs a key fitted to the shaft. Make sure you have the key and get it in there correctly - it can be a little bit of a pain.
3 - Pay close attention to ground strap points. There are a few that you need to hook back up.
One on the top of the engine block near the coil packs.
One on the side of the engine block near the A/C and P/S units
One on the back of the intake manifold
One going from the intake manifold to the firewall
maybe more? I duno - just make sure you get them all.
4 - Pay attention to how you route the wiring harness. If you get it in there wrong, you'll find things don't quite fit right. It may make sense to sort of "test run" the harness and put a few more things on without tightening any bolts or connecting all the connectors so you can see how the harness is laid on top of the engine correctly. If you get it right, nothing will be pinched or stretched. Sometimes it looks good until you put one or two pieces on and then you think - man, this doesn't quite look right.
5 - Make sure connections have the right bits with them. Most water hoses come with springy clamps - you can use worm gear clamps from the hardware store to replace missing ones. All of the oil connections in the car have copper crush washers. If you don't have the old ones - get new ones. Well you are supposed to use new ones anyhow, but I usualy reuse them
6 - Flywheel has a key and so does the junk under the front cover like the counterweight.
7 - Front spacer is needed to properly set the end play. The service manual covers this, but you may not have the right tools. I think it's worth checking it to be safe, but if all the same irons and rotor housings were used, then it's probably not an issue.
I dunno I could write a book here, but I'll leave it at that. Please get the manual and then post questions if you have them (pictures will help if you have a mystery part that you don't know what to do with).
B
Here are a few tips for things to watch out for since you didn't take the car apart yourself (and could even be missing parts!).
1 - The water pump mounts at something like 6 points. 4 of the points have a gasket, the other two use very thin washers to make it sit flat. The manual shows this as two very thin washers connected by a strip of metal like this o-----o , but on MY car - a 1993 - there are actually two very thin washers that are separate pieces. Don't forget the washers or you will have a leak.
2 - The oil pump needs a key fitted to the shaft. Make sure you have the key and get it in there correctly - it can be a little bit of a pain.
3 - Pay close attention to ground strap points. There are a few that you need to hook back up.
One on the top of the engine block near the coil packs.
One on the side of the engine block near the A/C and P/S units
One on the back of the intake manifold
One going from the intake manifold to the firewall
maybe more? I duno - just make sure you get them all.
4 - Pay attention to how you route the wiring harness. If you get it in there wrong, you'll find things don't quite fit right. It may make sense to sort of "test run" the harness and put a few more things on without tightening any bolts or connecting all the connectors so you can see how the harness is laid on top of the engine correctly. If you get it right, nothing will be pinched or stretched. Sometimes it looks good until you put one or two pieces on and then you think - man, this doesn't quite look right.
5 - Make sure connections have the right bits with them. Most water hoses come with springy clamps - you can use worm gear clamps from the hardware store to replace missing ones. All of the oil connections in the car have copper crush washers. If you don't have the old ones - get new ones. Well you are supposed to use new ones anyhow, but I usualy reuse them
6 - Flywheel has a key and so does the junk under the front cover like the counterweight.
7 - Front spacer is needed to properly set the end play. The service manual covers this, but you may not have the right tools. I think it's worth checking it to be safe, but if all the same irons and rotor housings were used, then it's probably not an issue.
I dunno I could write a book here, but I'll leave it at that. Please get the manual and then post questions if you have them (pictures will help if you have a mystery part that you don't know what to do with).
B
09-06-10, 11:53 AM
#5
Weird Cat Man
09-07-10, 12:44 AM
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Hey thanks for that guys, I guess the reason I couldn't find the info was that I wasn't looking for the factory service manual.
Thankyou very much Wargasm, I actually have that vacuum hose drawing and an oil path drawing too.
If I get stuck on a part I will chuck a picture up and go from there.
Thankyou very much Wargasm, I actually have that vacuum hose drawing and an oil path drawing too.
If I get stuck on a part I will chuck a picture up and go from there.
09-07-10, 11:48 AM
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You can also find the service manual on ebay for like 14.99. Its on a cd and its in pdf format. works great, thats what i use. better than spending 100 bucks or so for the book.
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09-07-10, 06:03 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=searchable
Post #10 is the money post.
09-09-10, 01:15 AM
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Thanks for the extra help guys, I have found the FSM on this forum and downloaded it which will be a big help but the pictures aren't the best and I'm still learning what all the bits are so may need a bit extra assistance. muibubbles I will pm you to get that guide if you still have it mate.
09-14-10, 04:57 PM
#12
Nothing personal, but I guarantee you get something wrong the first time. It's pretty much inevitable. So...
You should keep a close eye on the car when you start it up (watch for leaks and watch the temp guage closely). If you have air trapped in the cooling system the guage can move abruptly because coolant is not contacting the sender. Search for anything you're iffy about. Someone has gone through it before and made all the mistakes for you.
You should keep a close eye on the car when you start it up (watch for leaks and watch the temp guage closely). If you have air trapped in the cooling system the guage can move abruptly because coolant is not contacting the sender. Search for anything you're iffy about. Someone has gone through it before and made all the mistakes for you.
