f*ck it (midpipe on stock ECU)
12-26-03, 10:57 AM
#1
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**** it
recently my motor has gone from bad to worse. it burns collant and iam about to rip out the damn add coolant light. I have my new (well used) jdm motor on the way but before I put it in I thought Ied have a little fun. Ive got a midpipe just sitting in my garage just begging to be put on and yes I am on th stock ecu. what I want to do is just throw a boost controler on it run it at 10 pounds with the midppe and see how long I last. The thing is is that my turbos are later model and dont have the restrictor pills. my question is will I be able to lower my boost once I put on the boost controler or will I have to drill out the nipples or something like that. any info would be great and please dont give me the you need a stand alone speach I already know this idea is stupid. 
12-26-03, 11:17 AM
#2
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AWSOME!! I've always wanted to rag on an almost dead motor. My luck... i always get good parts. (you always want what you don't have)
sorry, can't help you with the restrictor pill question.
HAVE FUN!!
sorry, can't help you with the restrictor pill question.
HAVE FUN!!
12-26-03, 04:39 PM
#7
what model turbos do you have?
what you don't want to do is go over 10psi and blow a seal through your new turbos
try a manual boost controller its cheap and works
and just like you said I assume that your motor wont last as long because boost tears apart the o rings more.
what you don't want to do is go over 10psi and blow a seal through your new turbos
try a manual boost controller its cheap and works
and just like you said I assume that your motor wont last as long because boost tears apart the o rings more.
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12-26-03, 07:12 PM
#8
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Originally posted by SurgeMonster
what model turbos do you have?
what you don't want to do is go over 10psi and blow a seal through your new turbos
try a manual boost controller its cheap and works
and just like you said I assume that your motor wont last as long because boost tears apart the o rings more.
what model turbos do you have?
what you don't want to do is go over 10psi and blow a seal through your new turbos
try a manual boost controller its cheap and works
and just like you said I assume that your motor wont last as long because boost tears apart the o rings more.
12-26-03, 07:33 PM
#9
what boost are you getting now?
if they are new stock turbos then they should have the pills
how do you know theres no pills? if theres no pills youll get low boost on the primary and crazy boost on the secondary I believe
take the wastegate pill out, thats all you can do to lower the boost you want as much pressure as possible to go to the wastegate actuator. On a mild streetport with that pill the boost was creeping from 7-12 at redline.
if they are new stock turbos then they should have the pills
how do you know theres no pills? if theres no pills youll get low boost on the primary and crazy boost on the secondary I believe
take the wastegate pill out, thats all you can do to lower the boost you want as much pressure as possible to go to the wastegate actuator. On a mild streetport with that pill the boost was creeping from 7-12 at redline.
12-26-03, 07:36 PM
#10
Originally posted by SurgeMonster
what boost are you getting now?
if they are new stock turbos then they should have the pills
how do you know theres no pills? if theres no pills youll get low boost on the primary and crazy boost on the secondary I believe
take the wastegate pill out, thats all you can do to lower the boost you want as much pressure as possible to go to the wastegate actuator. On a mild streetport with that pill the boost was creeping from 7-12 at redline.
what boost are you getting now?
if they are new stock turbos then they should have the pills
how do you know theres no pills? if theres no pills youll get low boost on the primary and crazy boost on the secondary I believe
take the wastegate pill out, thats all you can do to lower the boost you want as much pressure as possible to go to the wastegate actuator. On a mild streetport with that pill the boost was creeping from 7-12 at redline.
12-26-03, 07:47 PM
#11
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Originally posted by Mahjik
There are versions of the turbos that have the restriction built into the nozzles instead of using pills.
There are versions of the turbos that have the restriction built into the nozzles instead of using pills.
12-26-03, 08:19 PM
#12
Originally posted by Ball joint
THATS WHAT IVE BEEN TRYING TO SAY!!!!! do you know of a way to lower it with this set up and btw my boost pattern is 10-8-10
THATS WHAT IVE BEEN TRYING TO SAY!!!!! do you know of a way to lower it with this set up and btw my boost pattern is 10-8-10
12-26-03, 08:19 PM
#13
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Ball joint,
There's no point destroying an engine with bad water o-ring seals. BTW: Ever seen an apex seal through a turbine wheel?
Don't be a Jack ***!
(pictures courtesy of AJC13B)
There's no point destroying an engine with bad water o-ring seals. BTW: Ever seen an apex seal through a turbine wheel?
Don't be a Jack ***!
(pictures courtesy of AJC13B)
Last edited by clayne; 12-26-03 at 08:38 PM.
12-26-03, 11:54 PM
#14
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All new replacement turbos have integral pills in the nipples.
You can simply put a manual needle valve in the hose from the wg actuator to the solenoid vent valve. start closed, should be about 9-10 psi.
You can simply put a manual needle valve in the hose from the wg actuator to the solenoid vent valve. start closed, should be about 9-10 psi.
12-27-03, 12:06 AM
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Originally posted by 911GT2
Or you might consider not shooting apex seal shards into your perfectly good turbos for no good reason.
Or you might consider not shooting apex seal shards into your perfectly good turbos for no good reason.
12-27-03, 05:48 PM
#16
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Originally posted by KevinK2
All new replacement turbos have integral pills in the nipples.
You can simply put a manual needle valve in the hose from the wg actuator to the solenoid vent valve. start closed, should be about 9-10 psi.
All new replacement turbos have integral pills in the nipples.
You can simply put a manual needle valve in the hose from the wg actuator to the solenoid vent valve. start closed, should be about 9-10 psi.
9-10 psi with the MP on?? or 9-10 with the stock system??
12-27-03, 05:50 PM
#17
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one more thing read this post before you keep saying stuff about apex seal shards going into turbos.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=213367
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=213367
12-27-03, 06:17 PM
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Originally posted by Ball joint
one more thing read this post before you keep saying stuff about apex seal shards going into turbos.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=213367
one more thing read this post before you keep saying stuff about apex seal shards going into turbos.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=213367
12-27-03, 10:46 PM
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What's that got to do with anything?
We're saying that if it DOES blow you have a chance of dusting your new turbines.
Why take a risk like that when you can control it?
We're saying that if it DOES blow you have a chance of dusting your new turbines.
Why take a risk like that when you can control it?
12-28-03, 01:20 AM
#21
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instead of doing the mid pipe thingy or in addition, please put water injection on the car (150 bucks max and about 2.5 hours insall). Then up the boost and see how much boost you can do without blowing up. Should be real cool.
12-28-03, 11:06 AM
#22
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Originally posted by clayne
What's that got to do with anything?
We're saying that if it DOES blow you have a chance of dusting your new turbines.
Why take a risk like that when you can control it?
What's that got to do with anything?
We're saying that if it DOES blow you have a chance of dusting your new turbines.
Why take a risk like that when you can control it?
Now.. does anyone have any info on a good way to drill out those nipples???
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