danny hahn

I stumbled across this thread, looking to compare running temperatures, heat soak temperatures and recovery. Had some questions for the persons familiar with the car in Malaysia.

Do your radiator fans come on? Are you loosing any coolant?

What's your theory on moving the AIT sensor?

NAN777

okay.. my radiator fans of course coming on... according to the PFC settings.. my fans come on around 86 degrees celcius.

nope i'm not loosing any coolant... solid coolant amount everyday.

theory of moving it... prevent heat soak.... sensor hiding under the manifold tend to collect more heat... through the sensor body itself... so.. moving it out to the side gives a little room for it to breath... should be reading around 5 to 10 degrees colder... and it reacts faster...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you doing this to trick yourself or the ECU? temps on startup will naturally be high and are nothing really to be alarmed about unless the coolant temps start going well over 220 with heat soak.

no point relocating the sensor just to ease your mind, it was placed where it was for realistic readings not false ones.

my intake temps prior to the throttle body on my FC reach upwards of 72*C(162*F) after i shut the car off for about 10 minutes to head into the store, nothing to be alarmed about unless it is hitting those numbers while you are cruising down the highway out of boost, even in boost they shouldn't be getting that high.

NAN777

okay... one of the reason i move the sensor is because i want the sensor to react fast on temperature change... sometimes after i stop the car.. the temp hit 87 degrees celcius.. and remained there and sometimes it goes up as well...i want it to react fast...

also reduce the heat soak on the sensor that's hidden above the rat's nest where not alot of air is flowing through it.

RX7LINK

iTrader: (3)

although the sensor sits above the rat's next, the sensor reads within the intake manifold not outside of the intake manifold. so if there's heatsoak, its the UIM that's increasing in temp, but it shouldn't effect the actual sensor reading when ur TB opens.

Similar to your EGT sensor, the closer the exhaust temp sensor is mounted to the exhaust manifold, the more accurate it is. Relocating the intake sensor only tricks yourself thinking the intake temp is lower. Mazda engineered sensor locations for a reason. I personally don't recommend relocating sensors unless its aftermarket.

I have a Andial intercooler temp gauge (http://www.andial.com/) that has 2 temp sensors which i mount on my cross over bar and my intake elbow. Lets you compare temp before and after the intercooler. This way you can get a secondary reading comparing it to your PFC and you'll really know if ur suffering from heatsoaking your intake or not.

Pic of the gauge i attached is old through SP Engineering, which are OEM by Andial.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

lol, Yeah nothing like blocking your radiator when you live in a country that the average temp is 90 F with 100% humidity.

Ditch the open intakes, upgrade your IC and stick a fan behind it. If possible (due to rain) run a vented hood also.

NAN777

in the planning phase of intercooler...........
and DYI intercooler spray to extra cool it down....

NAN777

i got one more thing....

stock ECU... do they retard timing when air intake is hot ?
i know the PFC has it....
so.. my question will be... what temperature should i set and how much should i retard if i at the moment have the stock IC?

with ducting etc everything stock without the stock air box only.

NAN777

oh yeah... at the mean time i'm setting at 80 degrees it retards 6 degrees....
which i'm running at border line.

rynberg

I wouldn't adjust the retardation much from the default settings. Retarding the timing too far will skyrocket EGTs.

NAN777

what's the default value then ? because i know it's already adjusted to 6 degrees for 80 and above intake temp.

danny hahn

so no coolant loss, rock solid coolant temps. I'm not that familiar with the heat sink of the stock intercooler as I didn't install a PFC until I fitted the ASP Med setup. I find there is a significant heatsink when no air is moving through. for instance today it's near freezing in Maryland driving around Ait's 4-10C, went to emissions testing 10 minutes of idling and driving on a dyno Ait temps to 51C. water temps 79-84C.

on another emissions run this past summer 80F I saw AIT's at 70C after 20 minutes idling then onto the dyno. water temps 90C. They dont do a good job at directing their simulated air flow fan to the nose.

My recovery seems to take more than I would like it to. But comparing by touch I felt the ASP does a good job at dropping temps.

I responded to a thread about the ASP and had some pointers on core size for easy fitting, thought it s/b smaller in width. What I like best about the setup is easy and quick removal.

If your game, I wonder what driving with no hood would do for your temps.

NAN777

yeah... making holes on my hood is another alternative... to allow the air flow through.. especially the radiator air....

if i were to make holes i'll make the mid-front and the back where radiator heat escapes through the mid-front and remaining heat waves from the engine and turbo escapes from the back fins/holes...

does anyone able to help me on the retarding ? what's the default value of air intake temp retarding value ?

danny hahn

I looked at some of your other post, you have a PFC? Try posting in the PFC forum.