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extreme lack of horsepower

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Old 01-02-08, 01:35 AM
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extreme lack of horsepower

ok a bit of a long post but please bear with me

i have a 92 JDM FD with the following mods;

Rebuilt with 3mm seals, street port
Efini Y pipe
3"DP MP and GReedy catback
Removed Air pump,power steer & a/c
FMIC
Apexi Intake
Still seq turbos
Lightened flywheel / performance clutch
PFC

I had my car tuned by 1 of only 3 places locally that "specialise" in tunning PFC and rotaries. At 14-15PSI boost on 98 octane fuel my car made 305RWHP and has a pathetic P.B of 13.2 on the 1/4 mile.

According to many users on this forum,FD's with sim mods are making well in excess of 350RWHP,( i have searched and read alot of threads)
so my questions are;

* Why is there such a HUGE difference in power output? I could explain 20 odd HP as being tuner experience but 50+ ? Are tuners in the US that much better?
* Without having FC Datalogit is there a way i can compare to someone elses tune to try pick differences?
* Can someone download their tune for me to load into my PFC? Of course i would only use that as a platform to tune my car from.
* Do i need to upgrade my fuel system at this stage?

I live in NZ which is the home of FC Datalogicit so i hope to have my car tuned by Steven personally in the future but thought it may be advantages to have a map for him to work from.

Thanks in advance Tony
Old 01-02-08, 01:44 AM
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You need larger injectors and an upgraded fuel rail for starters
Old 01-02-08, 01:45 AM
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tuners make all the difference with these cars. What are your AFRs?

A datalogit will make a huge difference on this car.

You shouldn't be running 15PSI without an upgraded fuel system. You shouldn't run more than maybe 11-12PSI without an upgraded fuel system.
Old 01-02-08, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOASFK
tuners make all the difference with these cars. What are your AFRs?

A datalogit will make a huge difference on this car.

You shouldn't be running 15PSI without an upgraded fuel system. You shouldn't run more than maybe 11-12PSI without an upgraded fuel system.
AFR's are constantly between 11 & 12 except for a small spike to 12.5 when the second turbo comes in. Why do i need an upgraded fuel system if the engine isnt lean?
Old 01-02-08, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by stalkn_etsv8s
AFR's are constantly between 11 & 12 except for a small spike to 12.5 when the second turbo comes in. Why do i need an upgraded fuel system if the engine isnt lean?
If the AFR's are what you say, then something is (IMO) restricting the intake or exhaust (probably exhaust), causing the fuel mixture to stay rich in spite of the higher boost. Have you calibrated the boost gauge to see if you are actually getting the boost you think you are?
Old 01-02-08, 09:14 AM
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Just a thought, check your compression first, since it's a rebuild. I had 360 whp with stock engine and seq twins at 15psi. After that compare your ignition map with others.
You do need to verify your inj duty cycle to determine if you need fuel system upgrade. AFR is not a good indicator by it self. At max power with afr between 10.5-12 injector duty cycle should not exceed 85%, this leaves you with 15% safety margin.
Old 01-02-08, 09:35 AM
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Clutch slipping?

Tires gripping?
Old 01-02-08, 12:07 PM
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check the compression. 3mm seals are junk IMO
thats a big can of worms that has been beaten to death on here but many have claimed a loss of hp when using 3mm compared to 2mm. 50rwhp would not surprise me
Old 01-03-08, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW
If the AFR's are what you say, then something is (IMO) restricting the intake or exhaust (probably exhaust), causing the fuel mixture to stay rich in spite of the higher boost. Have you calibrated the boost gauge to see if you are actually getting the boost you think you are?
both my blitz boost gauge and the PFC give a reading of 14-15PSI so i assume it to be correct. I only have one muffler on my exhaust at the very rear and no cat, surely theres no restriction?


*SaabGuy wrote" Clutch slipping?Tires gripping?"

tires slipping on the track yes, but my dyno run was acheived on a "dynapac" which bolts to the rear hubs (with wheels removed) so no slip on there.

3mm seals are junk? EVERYONE in NZ uses and recommends 3mm seals due to the extra strength, guess its a fail safe for the **** tunning they all do. Some one want to send me their map to try???
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