I was thinking about using the"VERSION 2" setup with a manual Hallman Boost Controller. Has anyone ever used this or knows if this is a good/bad idea?\

Please give me some info.

thanks,
-josh

 

That would work similar to Damian's setup (one MBC for the PC and one for the WG), but both would be controlled at the same pressure, since only one controller is used. I prefer to have the ability to control the PC and WG independently. My mods are in my sig.

 

To elaborate a little more, controlling the PC AND the WG either with one coupled or two independent ball-spring MBC's is a good idea, since if the PC is not controlled with a boost controller, spiking could still be an issue. I think that using one for both would probably work just fine. I wanted to get 11 psi primary and 10 psi secondary boost, with no spike, and using 2 controllers did that for me.

 

So can anyone find a downfall to this method? I mean does anyone think this could hurt the car? Also, dos anyone know what to use to cap off the waste gate and PCA?

thanks for the help,
-josh

 

I don't see how that would work properly, the amount of restriction needed for the PC and the wastgate are diffrent. It may work with an electronic controller.

 

It won't work with a needle valve (restriction) controller, but it should work with a ball/spring controller, since the actuator outlets are plugged, divorcing the boost control function from the solenoids.

 

The Hallman controller is a ceramic ball and spring controller. So does anyone see a MAJOR problem with trying this method? I just want to test to see how it works but I dont want to end up blowing up something in the process.

thanks,
0-josh

 

I think it will work fine. I plugged the WG and PC actuator exits by inserting a "pill" with no hole in each of the lines going from these actuators to the solenoids. Just monitor your boost to make sure it doesn't give you too much spike.

 

Hallman MBC are in the hundreds of $$$.

Can we simply use this type of pressure relief valve from McMaster that cost only $7.33
Part number 48935K25 at http://www.mcmaster.com/

Here is the screenshot.

 

This is a pressure RELIEF valve. What you want is a pressure REDUCER valve between the inlet (manifold pressure) and the actuator. That's why so many of us make the "Home Depot" version of the Hallman, etc. (see my signature).

Damian had a great thread on these (which I use).

BTW, there are some "Joe P" controllers that Damian used that were less expensive, IIRC.

 

version two is exactly how the Apexi AVC-R tells you to install it.

 

Well I already ordered, and have in my garage a hallman controller. Its the in cockpit controller and I am waiting for my new temp gauge to come in so I can instal them both at the same time. I was just trying to find out the best way to do it.

So no one thinks this would be bad, or cause damage? Everyone thinks this would work fine?

thanks,
-josh

 

Just an advisory - someone will ALWAYS come up with some reason why something will or won't work, correct or not. YOU have to make the decision.

As I said, it will work just fine.

 

^ thanks! I am just going to try it. If it doesnt work I will go wiht something else.

thanks again,
josh

 

Please post how this setup works for you and what your boost pattern is after you get it adjusted.