Evans NPG 0 pressure conversion
10-11-02, 12:14 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Evans NPG 0 pressure conversion
Just wanted to know how many people have done this conversion already, for how long and what are your thoughts on the system?
I just puchased 2 gallon of NPG+, will be doing the conversion soon. Just wanted to get some opinions, good, bad or none of the above. Thanks.
I just puchased 2 gallon of NPG+, will be doing the conversion soon. Just wanted to get some opinions, good, bad or none of the above. Thanks.
10-11-02, 12:58 PM
#2
thats not paint....
I am in the middle of the conversion... It does take a little bit of work if you want it done right. You will probably want to pick up 4 gallons Sierra coolant and maybe some radiator cleaner first.
-Drain the system out including removing the overflow tank and clean that out good.
-Fill up with water and drive for a day or two (radiator cleaner said to do this).
-Drain water, fill up with water & radiator cleaner, and drive for however long it said to.
-Drain system, maybe put a hose up to the filler neck and flush it out real nice. Pull off the overflow tank and dump that out. Fill up with straight Sierra coolant, drive for a couple days.
-Drain Sierra then fill up again with fresh Sierra, drive around for another couple of days.
-Drain Sierra, dump out overflow tank one last time, and fill up with Evans.
That should give you a clean coolant system, which the Evans likes. If your Thermostat is getting up there in miles it might be a great time to replace that. Evans will work fine with a stock Thermo but it must be relatively new. It would also be smart to check all your hoses when the system is dry. I am on the 2nd batch of Sierra and I plan to keep that in the car until I buy an aluminum AST. People say you should get a 7-psi cap for the AST that way your system will be lower pressure but not 0. There have been a few people talking about problems with the 0 pressure. If you want to run 0 pressure all you have to do is remove the rubber gasket on the filler neck cap.
Good luck,
Chris
-Drain the system out including removing the overflow tank and clean that out good.
-Fill up with water and drive for a day or two (radiator cleaner said to do this).
-Drain water, fill up with water & radiator cleaner, and drive for however long it said to.
-Drain system, maybe put a hose up to the filler neck and flush it out real nice. Pull off the overflow tank and dump that out. Fill up with straight Sierra coolant, drive for a couple days.
-Drain Sierra then fill up again with fresh Sierra, drive around for another couple of days.
-Drain Sierra, dump out overflow tank one last time, and fill up with Evans.
That should give you a clean coolant system, which the Evans likes. If your Thermostat is getting up there in miles it might be a great time to replace that. Evans will work fine with a stock Thermo but it must be relatively new. It would also be smart to check all your hoses when the system is dry. I am on the 2nd batch of Sierra and I plan to keep that in the car until I buy an aluminum AST. People say you should get a 7-psi cap for the AST that way your system will be lower pressure but not 0. There have been a few people talking about problems with the 0 pressure. If you want to run 0 pressure all you have to do is remove the rubber gasket on the filler neck cap.
Good luck,
Chris
10-11-02, 03:09 PM
#4
Normal coolant requires pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant/water mixture. When your engine runs at 200-220F you are getting close to the boiling point of water and coolant (223F according to howstuffworks.com). You introduce pressure and the boiling point goes up. Evans coolant boils at something like 375F in normal atmospheric pressure so you don't need the additional pressure that stresses your hoses and seals.
10-11-02, 05:16 PM
#6
I'm currently running a 0psi system on my FD for a little over 2 years now. No problems so far. My car runs from 90C-95C, even after a hard run or two. It'll go 100+after shut down. But that does'nt bother me.
What I did was elimate the ast. Plug the bottom of the radiator off. The little hose that comes out of the bottom of the radiator I cut to about 3", pushed a bolt in there, and put two hose clamps on it. I have a water pump that won't allow an 86 style adapter thingy ma-bober, so I ran the overflow line to the little nipple, under the new radiator cap.
So far its worked peferct for me. No problems. CJ
What I did was elimate the ast. Plug the bottom of the radiator off. The little hose that comes out of the bottom of the radiator I cut to about 3", pushed a bolt in there, and put two hose clamps on it. I have a water pump that won't allow an 86 style adapter thingy ma-bober, so I ran the overflow line to the little nipple, under the new radiator cap.
So far its worked peferct for me. No problems. CJ
10-11-02, 05:22 PM
#7
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I have been running it for awhile I like it, I think it great. The only proble I have is after a few hard runs it will spit some out of the resivor not as bad as when I had regular antifreeze though. does anyone else have that problem? two of my friends with fd's ahve the same problem.
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10-11-02, 07:04 PM
#8
I have 2 gallons of the stuff that I won at Sevenstock. I had been contemplating doing the conversion before but never got around to it, now that I have the coolant I have no excuse not to. My only concern is that I thought I heard something awhile back that said the NPG+ isn't as thermally conductive as water and the engine temps may go up a couple degrees. I live in Phoenix so that is not a good thing, anybody have any comments on that?
10-11-02, 08:29 PM
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First I would say that for the most technical advise, you should contact rob at pineapple racing. www.pineappleracing.com i believe. You can search for it on this site if that does not work.
I am personally using it and love the stuff. I have completelty eliminated the ast and plugged the lower radiator nipple as stated above. I am running 0 psi and have no problems. After making sure the system was full I only filled the overflow bottle to about 1/8 full. As the evan's expands it fills the overflow bottle to about half way and then goes back to 1/8 when cool. for those who are overflowing their coolant bottles, I would say that you have 1 of 2 problems. Either you have too much evans in your overflow tank to start with, or there is possibly water still in the system. With a 0 psi setup you might be boilng off the remaining water in the system.
As for the thermal properties of the coolant, this gets confusing. Water is a better thermal conductor but it goes ballistic too soon causing hot spots and nucleac boiling. This is when water vaporizes when it boils creating a vapor barrier between it and the part needing cooling. Since npg+ boils at 375 atmospheric, you do not have this problem. At this stage NPG+ leaves convetional coolant in the dust. It is like comparing twins to a single. Yah the twins make a little better lown end power but once the single comes online its bye bye.
The other advantage is more power. A combustion engine by design makes more power the hotter it runs becuse it is more effecient. By using NPG+, you can safely opperate your car at higher temps without having to worry about engine failure. since the parts are heated more evenly and you do not get hot spots the car will actually make better vaccuum and more horsepower, at least mine did. It warms up quicker, idles smoother, pulls slightly more vaccuum, and seemed to make more power in the midrange.
One thing is that your temp guage will read slightly higher. I seem to have higher temps with the npg+ than i did with water. the thing is that now I don't worry until I get to around 240. part of the reason for the higher temps is that the coolant is doing a better job at removing the heat from the engine instead of breaking down and cascading. temps rise consistently and there isn't that chain reaction effect that you get with water based coolant. When water based coolant overheats it vaporizes and looses all ability too collect heat. this causes the hot spot to grow and the coolant to get hotter along with the hotspot. thus the chain reaction and quick rise in temp. I have run my car at 240 with no sideeffects.
one other thing you gain is that you have less chance of detonation from secondary ignition points such as those hot spots mentioned earlier. you also do not get galvonic corrosion or electrolosis from your coolant system any longer.
I have seen all the above stuff and have been very happy with my results. just do not expect to see lower water temps from using this stuff. this was a little misleading at first to me also
hope this helps
I am personally using it and love the stuff. I have completelty eliminated the ast and plugged the lower radiator nipple as stated above. I am running 0 psi and have no problems. After making sure the system was full I only filled the overflow bottle to about 1/8 full. As the evan's expands it fills the overflow bottle to about half way and then goes back to 1/8 when cool. for those who are overflowing their coolant bottles, I would say that you have 1 of 2 problems. Either you have too much evans in your overflow tank to start with, or there is possibly water still in the system. With a 0 psi setup you might be boilng off the remaining water in the system.
As for the thermal properties of the coolant, this gets confusing. Water is a better thermal conductor but it goes ballistic too soon causing hot spots and nucleac boiling. This is when water vaporizes when it boils creating a vapor barrier between it and the part needing cooling. Since npg+ boils at 375 atmospheric, you do not have this problem. At this stage NPG+ leaves convetional coolant in the dust. It is like comparing twins to a single. Yah the twins make a little better lown end power but once the single comes online its bye bye.
The other advantage is more power. A combustion engine by design makes more power the hotter it runs becuse it is more effecient. By using NPG+, you can safely opperate your car at higher temps without having to worry about engine failure. since the parts are heated more evenly and you do not get hot spots the car will actually make better vaccuum and more horsepower, at least mine did. It warms up quicker, idles smoother, pulls slightly more vaccuum, and seemed to make more power in the midrange.
One thing is that your temp guage will read slightly higher. I seem to have higher temps with the npg+ than i did with water. the thing is that now I don't worry until I get to around 240. part of the reason for the higher temps is that the coolant is doing a better job at removing the heat from the engine instead of breaking down and cascading. temps rise consistently and there isn't that chain reaction effect that you get with water based coolant. When water based coolant overheats it vaporizes and looses all ability too collect heat. this causes the hot spot to grow and the coolant to get hotter along with the hotspot. thus the chain reaction and quick rise in temp. I have run my car at 240 with no sideeffects.
one other thing you gain is that you have less chance of detonation from secondary ignition points such as those hot spots mentioned earlier. you also do not get galvonic corrosion or electrolosis from your coolant system any longer.
I have seen all the above stuff and have been very happy with my results. just do not expect to see lower water temps from using this stuff. this was a little misleading at first to me also
hope this helps
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