I've just ordered the Evans coolant for my FD and want to know from anyone else on the forum that is using this stuff to tell me if there are any other modifacations done to there coolant system to use this. I ordered the new coolant that is lower in viscosity. I need to know if there's a trick to getting all the old coolant out of the system to avoid as much contamination as possible. Thanks for any help, Jack

 

I'm running it with no side effects what so ever. All i did was remove the rubber o rings on the radiator cap, so that it has no pressure. As blake said, either take your car to a ac shop and have it vaccumed out, or run seirra in it for a little while. I would go with the first idea, because evans does'nt like any contamination. I have heard of some people having problems with the system not wanting to suck the coolant back into the motor. And that person just ran a low pressure cap with no side effects. It might be best just to e-mail Rob at pineapple. He might have some better ideas.

The funny thing is, i've been running this stuff for about 2-3 years. And in the begining, i was either flamed (on other forums) or told i bought some good snake oil. CJ

 

What would an A/c shop do to blow out all the coolant. Could you do it yourself if you have an air compressor? If so, how?

 

naa what an ac shop can do is put you coolant system under a vacum, causing the remaning water to boil @ room temperature(this is how they make instant coffe)

i keep forgeting to ask my physiscs prof @ what press it would boil, i hope its not to much, id be scared to suck a seal out, ie- opposit of blowing acoolant seal from 2 much press...

 

here are some tips Rob @ Pineapple gave me

>I would flush out all the coolant you can, including
the overflow bottle. Ideally you want less that 1%
water, less than 3% is ok. Pour some sierra coolant
through the heater core after you have opened up the
heater control valve. same with any hose/lines you can
not remove easily. Run the stock thermostate, rotaries
make their best power around 190deg. After a few days
with the stock cap on to help bleed air out of the
system, just remove the smaller rubber seal at the
bottom of the stock rad cap. You don't have to cut the
spring.

 

I was running evans coolant, but am working on some of my own system things. But something that will really help is to cut out the guts in the thermostat. Evans is great at removing heat from the engine, but if its restricted by the thermostat, it won't be as efficient. Simply cut the center portion out. Only drawback to this is that you'll have to block the bypass hole in the water pump body. I used a small engine freezeplug, and staked it in place after filing it to the size I needed. Two years and still stuck in place. The reason I went with the evans is because I road race about 5 times a year here in the midwest, and it gets "HOT" in the summer months, and I have a front mount I/C. The evans worked admirably, but still saw temps into the 240's-TOO hot for me. I fabricated an entire aluminum ducting to the radiator, and sealed all avenues of air escape around the radiator-Temps stayed about 225, still hotter than I like to see under 30 minute track sessions. Mind you ambient temps were in the mid 90's or better with about 85% humidity. I also used a 16 psi cap with the evans, but the stuff never boiled so didn't produce any pressure in the system to speak of. You can run a pressure cap, it will raise the boiling point of the evans, but it's already at like 371 degrees or something. Biggest advantage is no Nucleate boiling is occurring, even at engine temps into the 260's or so. Biggest drawback, Oil temp still needs to be minimized as to continue proper e-shaft lubrication and rotor bearings.
Added note, to drain the whole system out, you need to open the block water plug too, and drain the block, it's on the drivers side in the intermediate housing above the oil pan.(14mm). You don't need to remove 100percent of the water, but will work better if you can. Remember though that in the rear housing, there's about 12 oZ that you can't get out no matter what, it sits in an obscure spot, so there will be some contamination, but not really an issue. Use an air hose and blow out the remaining water, with the block plug open, you can get almost all of the water out this way. Good Luck.
Art

 

The input for everyone is greatly appreciated. I'm planning on putting in a fluidyne radiator at the same time I do the coolant. I was going to get the Koyo but don't want to mess with adding spacers and making new brackets....so the Fluidyne it is. Thanks again.

 

Art,

I plan to run Evans NPG+ with the pressure caps (GReddy pressure cap on fillerneck, pressure cap on Pettit AST). From what you wrote below, there won't be any pressure build up, until we hit 375 F (with the NPG+), right? I'm hoping the Evans stabilizes my engine temps during hot track sessions. Mobil 1 15W50 boils at 450 F, 265 F engine temps for Mobil 1 15W50 is well within the oil's operating temp? My motor's in pieces, so the only water to flush out will be in the Koyo rad core, heater core, and coolant hoses. A couple of gallons of straight Sierra should get all the water out of the system, before refilling with pure Evans NPG+??

 

There will be pressure build up WAY before 375 F because just cause it doesnt boil doesnt mean it doesnt expand. This stuff expands way more than water too, btw.

 

Are you using the Evans NPG+ now in your motor?

 

I just ordered some for my dads motor, until I find all the leaks on my motor I wont be using it (its hard to see 25$ go out like that ). Once I pressure test mine and do the works to it, I will jump it on evans. Also I want to get a digital temperature read for my dads to see if there is any difference and how much of a difference in temperature. I think damain talked about how the stuff overflowed ,his overflow tank because it expands alot more than water.

 

Just called Evans toll free number 888 990 2665. The Evans tech person said using pressure caps won't hurt anything. The most pressure the cooling system will build with Evans NPG+ is 10 psi. So 15 psi caps are fine; the system will be under some pressure. Some pressure is useful for detecting coolant leaks (see damian's thread on How Evans NPG+ saved his engine )

 

Oh I didnt mean a pressure cap would be bad, you were just talking about the temperature at which it boils is different from it expanding. Ya your right a low pressure cap like 7 or 10 lbs is fine.