DRAG0NEER

Hi all I just ordered some evans coolant and am thinking about replacing the AST. But I was just wondering if I even need one for the evans NPG+. And even if I do get an aftermarket AST such as a pettit AST, it would be difficult to find a 0psi or 7psi radiator cap that fits on there, any ideas on what I should do? Get a new OEM AST?

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

I'm running Evans NPG+ as well. Stant makes a 7# cap, it can be purchased at any Schucks, Kragen, CRAP, etc. I am running a 7# Stant on an aluminum AST, I believe I got the AST from Rx7.com, well worth the piece of mind!

Regards,
Frank

DRAG0NEER

thank you so much! That made it a lot clearer. So how do you like the evans cooling system so far? Any idea of how much the average water temp went up?

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

No real idea on temp as I did not have an aftermarket temp gauge prior to the switch. With the fan mod I never see temps over 190 F. With the fan mod I can pretty much keep temps right on the thermostat, even in stop and go traffic in 90+ degree weather (180-185F). Evans also has a higher boiling point so as long as you get ALL of the old water/coolant out of the system, and have no leaks, you should have no problems keeping cool. One thing I noticed with the Evans though, it will find the minutest leaks (something with the molecular properties). I used a couple "Silver Seal" tabs when I switched (supposed to react to leaks and stop them up). A benefit of the higher boiling point is that you can run a lower pressure T-stat, a bonus if you are worried about putting to much pressure on old coolant O-rings. My experience anyway.

Best of luck,
Frank

DRAG0NEER

interesting...what are silver seals?? Is it something that you put in the coolant? Thanks

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

Yep. It's a tablet about the size of a nickel. You break it up into a powder and put it in your filler neck, then go for a drive. Try without them if you like though, but if you start smelling that sweet coolant smell, you might have a small leak somewhere (I did). I put (2) tabs in and swithced to the 7# cap and have had no problems since. A side note: when I went to Evans it was on a brand new rebuild, new Fluidyne radiator, all coolant hoses and clamps were replaced as well, and it seems that anytime I do things like this, the new items always seem to NOT seal the way the originals did. I was told that even brand new cars have some sort of sealant additive added to the engine to take care of the small leaks, not sure if this is true, but it worked for me.

Frank

DRAG0NEER

and where can you get those silver seals? Is it perfectly safe?

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

I got mine from the Evans dealer in my area. Check with your dealer and see what he suggests. I think that there is something about this on the Evans site as well, you might do a search there. Is it safe? I had my reservations too, but have not had any problems whatsoever.

racer rx

At the Dragstrip this past weekend...
I got the Temp gauge running up all the way to the HOT red area at WOT in 3rd and 4th gear.... only to calm down to the middle after I slowed down.

I'm running the Evan's too... But have a 0 pressure cap on the AST... Greddy pulleys to... What can I do...?
And running the factory termostat. That temp gauge running up so high makes me really nervous...
jc.

DRAG0NEER

you scaring me bro...

is that a stock temp gauge that you are talking about? If you can get the stock temp to the red zone then you're probly up in the 220s and 230s range!?

Van Sema

iTrader: (1)

An AST will make burping the system a lot easier ... Evans NPG+ is super thick stuff ... So I think there'd be a bigger chance of having air pockets at first.

I'll be running it when my rebuild is done ... I also bought an aluminum ast. Jus tto be on the safe side.

Flyrx7

iTrader: (1)

What do you have for a radiator? Did you completely purge your coolant system (heater core too) prior to adding the Evans? They say that a cup or two of old coolant in your system with the Evans may cause the Evans to be less effective and may create localized hot spots. If you have a high mile car and a stock radiator I would suspect that the radiator may be partially clogged. Take a look at your overflow bottle too, is the dipstick dark and smudgy? If so, you may be bypassing some combustion gases from the rotor housings into your coolant passages (I hope this is not your case). Hell, you may evan have a sticky thermostat. Check the easiest and cheapest stuff first, and work your way up from there.

Best of luck
Frank