So I just put in an auto engine in a manual FD. I have spark, I have gas ans 100+ PSI compression and the ******* thing wont start. It almost started yesterday but then decided not to and now it seems it doesn't wanna go no matter what I do. I have unflooded the car maybe 10 times and it still wont go. It doesn't seem to even have the slightest combustion...

Last Time I unflooded the car, I removed the 4 spark plugs, removed the EGI fuse and cranked it for like 2 minutes straight, cleaned the plugs and it still doesn't wanna start...Plugs are 9 at the top and 7s on leading.

What the ****?! I am out of options...Seems like the only last option would be to pull start it, right?

And btw, what does the wire that comes from the oilpan for? Oil level sensor?

Spec.

 

What happens when you try to start it? What do you hear? What does it do?

 

it turns over but doesn't start up.

 

See pic to see which ground I am talking about.


The plastic with which it clips to the firewall smokes because its melting when I am cranking it over and over because I am trying to unflood it for the last 4 hours or so. I would guess the ground is just to small because a short wouldn't create that kind of problem...Should I just use a bigger ground? I'm fairly positive but just to be sure I wanna confirm this first with some of you.

Thank you

 

OOOppps. Forgot the pic. Here it is.

 

check your Crank Angle Sensors

 

^^^

Like mentioned above, do check your crank angle sensors. Trying not to sound too crazy, but make sure you have a fresh battery (ask me how I know). I had the exact same issue and it was just the fact that the battery was too tired...

Yes, that is the oil level sensor and there should be a single wire connector on the same side of the engine to connect it to.

Good luck.

Charlie

 

Hey, I know how you feel, we just did a auto to 5 speed swap last week and had the same problems you just described.

Did you disconnect the auto trans dianostic modules located next to the ECU? The blue connectors need to be loop back togethor. It has an inner circuit within the ECU that controls fuel going to the injectors.

We spend several days tracking it down and finally it started when these two connectors were coupled. Try this and PM me if it does not work.

Are you using a stock standard ECU or PFC? We sprayed some carb cleaner and it cranked over, so we knew fuel was not getting into the rotors. But there was still no voltage at the injectors. If you want, you can call me, but long distance charges are on your watch. Its hard to work on a one way conversation, especially when doing live trouble shooting.

(808) 457 2099 cell

Lawrence

 

We used an auto block on a manual car. Meaning I used the auto block, manifold and turbos and the lower intake manifold. Everything else I used is from the old engine. So that wouldn't be my issue. But thank you anyhow for trying to help.

Spec.

 

I'd love too! How do I do that on an FD?

Thanks!

 

Are you using a standard engine wiring harness instead of the original auto one? If yes, then disregard. Normally a bad ground will make the starter hard to turn over, sounds like a short between that connector and some circuit that utilizes it? Just seen the picture, it provides ground to the firewall, dash console.

 

The ground was just to small at the clip. Only half the metal was touching the firewall so the plug heated up. I replaced the ground with a bigger one and all is fine now. Thanks.

Spec.

 

Is your FD running now? Just wanted to know what caused your problems, so that we can keep it in mind in case someone else comes across it too.

Thanks

 

souds like you missed an engine ground somewhere else so all the current was trying to pass through that little ground strap. is the block grounded on the driver's side down by the spark plugs?

 

Huh? Spark plug on the drivers side? Its a USDM car. And yes, its grounded.

I checked all grounds when I saw that happen, and then I realized what was happening with the small ground.

Spec.