Engine Vibration past 6k rpm
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Engine Vibration past 6k rpm
Can you guys tell me if you have any NVH when you free rev past 6k rpm? I am getting a little bit of vibration that I don't think I had before when the engine was stock. I rebuilt the engine and had the rotating assembly balanced with a bunch of other mods such as porting, poly motor mounts, clutch and flywheel etc... Wondering if it's just the stiffer mounts (FFE w/street bushings) or if my ACT flywheel isn't balanced well.
Please make sure you mention if you have aftermarket mounts.
Please make sure you mention if you have aftermarket mounts.
Last edited by 93BlackFD3S; 06-23-23 at 09:51 PM.
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
Can you guys tell me if you have any NVH when you free rev past 6k rpm? I am getting a little bit of vibration that I don't think I had before when the engine was stock. I rebuilt the engine and had the rotating assembly balanced with a bunch of other mods such as porting, poly motor mounts, clutch and flywheel etc... Wondering if it's just the stiffer mounts (FFE w/street bushings) or if my ACT flywheel isn't balanced well.
Please make sure you mention if you have aftermarket mounts.
Please make sure you mention if you have aftermarket mounts.
#3
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
agree w Dave as it will be more noticeable w solid mounts. however an internal imbalance situation in your motor is generally linear w rpm and you mention 6k. doubt it is the flywheel. hate to say it but in my opinion the most probable culprit is the "balance" job. there are only a few that can properly balance a rotary although many provide the service...
unless you plan to spend a lot of time on the other side of 9 it is not necessary and in many cases a backward step. varying amounts of oil fill your rotor when the engine is running so you could have perfectly balanced rotors and due to differing amounts of oil have them imbalanced. i do hope the answer lies elsewhere.
unless you plan to spend a lot of time on the other side of 9 it is not necessary and in many cases a backward step. varying amounts of oil fill your rotor when the engine is running so you could have perfectly balanced rotors and due to differing amounts of oil have them imbalanced. i do hope the answer lies elsewhere.
#5
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Depending on who you paid to balance your rotating assembly, I'd say that's your culprit. I paid Chips to balance my RA years ago during a very expensive rebuild. My engine shook so bad it rattled my oil lines loose, destroying the motor in about 4,000 miles. I was so pissed that it happened after just dumping ~$15k into the build that I just put the entire car on mothballs.. that was 11 years ago, I'm just now getting back to putting her back on the road. Turns out, the "balance" was never even close to accurate.
#6
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
The machined “lightened” stuff does not mean balancing even though people very often confuse the 2 and i dont mean that about you. He even markets them as such. I have never seen any actual balance marks from chips so i suppose they only look “pretty “ lol.
but for what it’s worth, Stock balance is plenty for 95% of the people out there. Not really needed unless the engine gets revved at high rpm.
but for what it’s worth, Stock balance is plenty for 95% of the people out there. Not really needed unless the engine gets revved at high rpm.
#7
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
Yup, lightening and balancing are two separate services. I paid for both, which is what pissed me off so much.
The shop that eventually took over making my engine right pointed out that there almost wasn't enough material left in the sides of the rotors to actually balance them. I almost needed to scrap them completely and start over with a fresh set.
The shop that eventually took over making my engine right pointed out that there almost wasn't enough material left in the sides of the rotors to actually balance them. I almost needed to scrap them completely and start over with a fresh set.
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#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
IMHO it's not worth balancing an engine during a build unless you are building a 100% dedicated high-RPM track car. Besides that you just invite more problems.
Balancing a rotating assembly is a black art and there's only a handful of people that can do it RIGHT. Also the chance of components getting lost or damaged in shipping is VERY high.
If you have a bad rotor, just get another rotor that's within one letter of your existing one and you are done. Have a C weight rotor? Get a B, C, or D rotor and you are done.
Dale
Balancing a rotating assembly is a black art and there's only a handful of people that can do it RIGHT. Also the chance of components getting lost or damaged in shipping is VERY high.
If you have a bad rotor, just get another rotor that's within one letter of your existing one and you are done. Have a C weight rotor? Get a B, C, or D rotor and you are done.
Dale
#9
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
agree w Dave as it will be more noticeable w solid mounts. however an internal imbalance situation in your motor is generally linear w rpm and you mention 6k. doubt it is the flywheel. hate to say it but in my opinion the most probable culprit is the "balance" job. there are only a few that can properly balance a rotary although many provide the service...
unless you plan to spend a lot of time on the other side of 9 it is not necessary and in many cases a backward step. varying amounts of oil fill your rotor when the engine is running so you could have perfectly balanced rotors and due to differing amounts of oil have them imbalanced. i do hope the answer lies elsewhere.
unless you plan to spend a lot of time on the other side of 9 it is not necessary and in many cases a backward step. varying amounts of oil fill your rotor when the engine is running so you could have perfectly balanced rotors and due to differing amounts of oil have them imbalanced. i do hope the answer lies elsewhere.
IMHO it's not worth balancing an engine during a build unless you are building a 100% dedicated high-RPM track car. Besides that you just invite more problems.
Balancing a rotating assembly is a black art and there's only a handful of people that can do it RIGHT. Also the chance of components getting lost or damaged in shipping is VERY high.
If you have a bad rotor, just get another rotor that's within one letter of your existing one and you are done. Have a C weight rotor? Get a B, C, or D rotor and you are done.
Dale
Balancing a rotating assembly is a black art and there's only a handful of people that can do it RIGHT. Also the chance of components getting lost or damaged in shipping is VERY high.
If you have a bad rotor, just get another rotor that's within one letter of your existing one and you are done. Have a C weight rotor? Get a B, C, or D rotor and you are done.
Dale
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
I forgot to mention I also have the banzai trans brace with the poly mount but I had that before the rebuild. It's not a strong vibration by any means and probably less than you'd have with most piston engines, I just feel like it wasn't there before. Poly mounts are most likely the culprits but the "balance" job definitely makes me nervous. The guy that balanced them has been around for decades in the rotary world and is known to be one of the best so I trust he knows how to do it, I just hope he didn't make a mistake.
Thanks everyone for your input, you guys are definitely right tho, not worth balancing and then wondering if it did more harm than good...
Thanks everyone for your input, you guys are definitely right tho, not worth balancing and then wondering if it did more harm than good...
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farberio
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