Engine overhall
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Engine overhall
Mazda guys,
I have a 13b tt and have disassembled it. I am trying to access the damage to determine if the engine is worth repairing and how to go about repairing it. The crank looks scored on one rotor and the side housing connected to the same rotor shows signs of heating. There are large areas of heat damage on the side housings. The rotor housings look unaffected. I am a dealership (G.M) drivability specialist and know my way around engines etc, however this is a special car and surely want to do it correctly. If the engine were a conventional design the would equate to a scored cylinder wall along with large hot spots on the cylinder wall along with a crank shaft which needs to be turned and new borings installed. As a rotary engine I cant say is this can be machined out or what if anything I can so to clean up the area. Sure I can clean up the damaged areas with 400 to 600 grit wet/dry paper but do shops service the crank and bearings / regrind etc. I really don’t wish to spend money on a rebuild but I will if I need to. Advice is what I need, rebuilder's of stock packages for a good value. Thank You, John
I have a 13b tt and have disassembled it. I am trying to access the damage to determine if the engine is worth repairing and how to go about repairing it. The crank looks scored on one rotor and the side housing connected to the same rotor shows signs of heating. There are large areas of heat damage on the side housings. The rotor housings look unaffected. I am a dealership (G.M) drivability specialist and know my way around engines etc, however this is a special car and surely want to do it correctly. If the engine were a conventional design the would equate to a scored cylinder wall along with large hot spots on the cylinder wall along with a crank shaft which needs to be turned and new borings installed. As a rotary engine I cant say is this can be machined out or what if anything I can so to clean up the area. Sure I can clean up the damaged areas with 400 to 600 grit wet/dry paper but do shops service the crank and bearings / regrind etc. I really don’t wish to spend money on a rebuild but I will if I need to. Advice is what I need, rebuilder's of stock packages for a good value. Thank You, John
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suganuma,
I can post some pictures a bit later but I will say the side rings on the rotor and the rotor it self have damage. If it were a piston engine the pistons would need to be replaced, sure you could get it to run but it would not preform well. I do have 20 years as a general motors tune up and drive-ability specialist and understand by looking at this configuration it too would run but maybe a junker not this one. I am fascinated with the design of the engine it is a real kick, just the physics alone give it appeal. I have a 93 with 52K and I just purchased it as it sits. The guy who owned it only had it 3 months and it broke. He payed 14,000 and along the way replaced the turbo. I didn't steel it but payed for the overall conduction more than anything else. I was looking for one with a damaged engine and saw a lot of cars with over 100,000 some even over 150, 000 and they were around 2,000 cheaper but why invest in a high mileage car if you can get one with lower mileage. I will post the pictures later and if I were to go to a builder who might be the best value. Keep in mind I really don't wish to spend over 3,000 on the motor and I surely would install it myself. I also would like to learn more about the parts, rotors, housings and where you can get them used again best value. I am new to this design but am a quick study and have always wanted a 3rd gen. John P.S. I am a General motors guy and if anyone has any electrical, fuel injection, emission, or computer control trouble I am always willing to lend a hand..
I can post some pictures a bit later but I will say the side rings on the rotor and the rotor it self have damage. If it were a piston engine the pistons would need to be replaced, sure you could get it to run but it would not preform well. I do have 20 years as a general motors tune up and drive-ability specialist and understand by looking at this configuration it too would run but maybe a junker not this one. I am fascinated with the design of the engine it is a real kick, just the physics alone give it appeal. I have a 93 with 52K and I just purchased it as it sits. The guy who owned it only had it 3 months and it broke. He payed 14,000 and along the way replaced the turbo. I didn't steel it but payed for the overall conduction more than anything else. I was looking for one with a damaged engine and saw a lot of cars with over 100,000 some even over 150, 000 and they were around 2,000 cheaper but why invest in a high mileage car if you can get one with lower mileage. I will post the pictures later and if I were to go to a builder who might be the best value. Keep in mind I really don't wish to spend over 3,000 on the motor and I surely would install it myself. I also would like to learn more about the parts, rotors, housings and where you can get them used again best value. I am new to this design but am a quick study and have always wanted a 3rd gen. John P.S. I am a General motors guy and if anyone has any electrical, fuel injection, emission, or computer control trouble I am always willing to lend a hand..
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