Engine go bye bye...
#1
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Engine go bye bye...
Well I guess it's my turn, I've been reading posts about other members unfortunate mishap and now it's me. I was about 30 miles away from home, going about 70 mph in the cool 40 degree weather. I down shifted to 4th to pass on the left when I felt a loss and power, the car was running REALLY rough and when I gas it the car will make no power at all, I knew I was in for it. Boost gauge was flickering crazy between 0-5 psi at partial throttle, the car just died right after I hit the e-lane. Car starts, idles very weakily then dies within seconds. I have a feeling a seal on the front rotor went. I was driving normally, wasn't at WOT just regular driving. I had to wait 2 hours for a tow bed to arrive, towed the car 30 miles home and now there she lies, lifeless.....
Tony S.
Tony S.
#3
thats not paint....
Damn man thats no good, how many miles did it hit? Have you checked if the MAP sensor popped off. Anyway, hope things go good with your ride. like Lost Time said Street-port!!!!
#5
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sounds more like a hose popping off...or a split in a pipe...unless you can see oil out of the exhaust, which still could mean you blew your turbo
#6
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Yeah, before you get depressed, check the MAP sensor and the pressure chamber. The MAP sensor is a little box on the firewall by the inlet elbow and master cylinder. It should have some wiring going to it and a hose attached to the bottom. Make sure that hose is FULLY attached. Also, check the two hoses going to the pressure chamber which is black plastic chamber between intake plenum and the crossover tube going to the IC. If it is one of these things, you'll also have to reset the ecu after you re-attach the hose.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#7
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I checked all the hoses and map sensor, no good. I knew it couldn't be the hoses because I already did the hose job. I tried to start it again this morning and it'll take a while to start. When it starts it's VERY VERY weak for about 1.5 seconds then dies. I'm as boggled as how this could happen too, I don't really know how much mileage is on the engine. I bought the car with 89k and it now has about 106-107k miles. I'm going to get a compression check done when my mechanic comes back from vacation. If it turns out to be a seal then it's time for an EXTEND port hehehe.
Tony S.
Tony S.
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#8
God that sounds like the worse. I guess we are all gonna have that feeling sometime. I just hope I've come across a few grand while its in my garage when the seals decide to die.
#9
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oh god these cars are a bitch...were they 107k on original motor? If they were chances are you'd want a new motor anyway...I don't know how effective a rotary motor is at high mileage
#11
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coincidence
holy crap Bucrx7, my 7 did the exact same thing on tuesday morning. i got it to start that afternoon and it did the same thing yours was. now it wont even start. when i try to start it it does a lot of little backfires, and even a flame once, weird. im gonna go check those hoses you guys are talking about. by the way, my motor (original) has 98k on it.
#14
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they're in the sig, but....
Trust downpipe, SR midpipe, HKS Hiper catback, Trust FMIC, Intake hard pipes, G-Force ECU, Bonez clutch, Jacobs plug wires, Blitz bov, Greddy turbo timer, Autometer Phantom boost, water temp, air/fuel, and oil pressure gauges, battery relocation, manual boost & secondary pre-spool controllers, NR Auto white gauge faces, '99 spec lip and tail light conversion, FEED headlight cover, Cusco strut bar, Eibach Prokits, Momo combat ****, Racing Beat skirts, emissions removed
Trust downpipe, SR midpipe, HKS Hiper catback, Trust FMIC, Intake hard pipes, G-Force ECU, Bonez clutch, Jacobs plug wires, Blitz bov, Greddy turbo timer, Autometer Phantom boost, water temp, air/fuel, and oil pressure gauges, battery relocation, manual boost & secondary pre-spool controllers, NR Auto white gauge faces, '99 spec lip and tail light conversion, FEED headlight cover, Cusco strut bar, Eibach Prokits, Momo combat ****, Racing Beat skirts, emissions removed
#15
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well you should be able to tell from your gauges...did you run lean recently? were the intake temperatures high? if not then i doubt it could be your engine blown, it may just be a hose...but seems like you are running high boost with your set up, did you have any fuel upgrades?
#16
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no i never ran lean, and it was a cool 50 degree morning engine temp was at about 190, boost gauge went flicker crazy like Tony's and ran rough. the boost thing..... here's what happened to mine... pretty positive this is what killed it. i was out tuning the secondary prespool controller (rob robinette version). i had the primary boost controller set at 10lbs and it was holding fine but when the secondary turbo kicked on at 4500 the boost spiked to 16-17 lbs. thats what the prespool controller was supposed to keep in check, but apparently i accidently opened the valve instead of closing it, so i was on the throttle a little harder figureing the prespool controller would hold the spike back. but if you turn the valve the wrong way it sure as crap wont keep it from spiking. yeah i know that is not at all good for a tired motor like mine. and right after that is when boost gauge flickerd and the car ran rough rough and then died.
#22
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Hey, A quick way to see if you've got compression without doing a compression check would be to pull your spark plugs, have someone try starting the car, and listen for the whooshes...If they're even, then you've got good compression. If they aren't, depending on the pattern, you either blew a apex seal, corner seal, or side seal. I've seen a lot of blown motors, and 99% of them is the front rotor, corner seal.
Either way, TIME TO STREET PORT!!!
...knocks on wood...
Either way, TIME TO STREET PORT!!!
...knocks on wood...
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