I searched a lot on this subject, but can't quite get the answer i'm looking for.

I got a PFS PMS ecu with Dp, hi-flow, catback, intake, IC, etc. Running 12psi or so.
I've been having some strange problems lately, with cold start.

If i start it in neutral it won't go to 3k but it will go to 2k and idle kind of like on one rotor with shaking etc, and then after 5-10 sec. it will go back to normal.

If i start it in first gear it will just idle at around 1k with same problem as above. After it warms up it's all perfect. This only happens when the car is been sitting for 3-4 days.

Now my questions....

Can I remove AWS, and that coolant that goes to UIM without having problems with idle or check engine light etc? I already got all the block-off plates.

If i remove emission stuff and Air pump, will i have problem with idle then? I tried disconnecting Air pump and at 2-3k or so it will hesitate. Is that common or what?

Thanks Guys.

Amel

 

noone has the answer?

Thanks

 

I would assume that since the PFS is a piggy back, you'll get a code if you remove the AWS off the UIM without using a resistor in place. The resistors are cheap. As for the coolant line, I really didn't notice much of a change bypassing the TB.

I never noticed any hesistation after removing the airpump. However, I'm using a different ECU than you are. When you plug the airpump back in the hesitation is gone?

 

Your early morning startup problems sounds like one rotor that's not combusting cleanly. This could be a few things - either you're due for spark plugs and wires, or you've got a dirty injector that's leaking fuel into the rotor overnight, causing that rotor to foul. The leaky injector could temporarily lower compression on that rotor or load up the plugs and foul them out.

I really don't think the AWS and emissions components are affecting the rough morning start.

Dale

 

I disconnected the AWS connector without experiencing a check engine light. Not all output devices will store ecu codes.

 

When my airpump hose was split, I disconnected the electrical connector to my airpump so it wouldn't make such a hissing noise pushing air through the split hose. After that my idle would drop to from 850>>500rpm, at a very even interval, about once every half-second or so, sounded like a misfire almost. I plugged my airpump electrical connector back in, and everything went back to normal.

-s-

 

If you remove/unplug the airpump on a stock or rechipped ECU, you typically need to raise your idle to keep it smooth. On programmable ECU's, you can program it out.

 

How about that stupid hesitation at 2 or 3k? It's like a fuel cut but happens for a sec.

Also, it could be my fuel injector leaking, but plugs and Magnacore 10mm wires have less then 2k on them. I would have loved to take injectors out and send them for cleaning, but they are pain in the *** to get to. I'll have to remove rat's nest and what not Or.. is there an easy way that i don't know about?

Amel

 

Here's what the service manual says about the AWS, "if the circuit is open, the fast idle speed after engine starting will not exceed 2,000 rpm."

Reach behind your UIM and disconnect the AWS connector.

Your problem sounds temperature related.

You do have to pull the rats nest to remove your primaries, doubt if that is your problem.

 

Well, I removed AWS and put block-off plates and the 330ohm resistor. I plugged the elbow pipe as well. I also bypased that coolant that goes to the Throttle body.

It still had the same problem when starting, it even died. Then when i tried to start it again, it was like it's flooded. It finnaly started and now it's idling at 1500. I drove it for 30 min or so, and the idle won't go down. That screw that i usually adjust the idle makes no difference now.

So, is there another way I can get the idle down? Why would removing AWS and bypasing coolant line going to throttle body make such a difference? And, I still haven't solved my problem

 

Did you do all the steps for bypassing the throttle body coolant section?

http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm

"I took the adjustment screw out and took off the spring. Then I reinstalled the screw without the spring and tightened it all the way down. That props it up at angle that seems like it will work. I only did this because I had no safety wire and this just seemed to make sense"

 

no I didn't. I'm glad that's the problem. I forgot about that stupid thing. Thanks Mahjik

 

Is there a way I can check this without removing injectors... for now?

This problem is bugging me a lot and it runs like cement mixer when i start it over 3-4 days of being parked.

 

Did you finish the rest of the TB Coolant removal steps?

 

Like what Mahjik? I just bypased the throttle body by using that long hose and pluging it down where the small one went from the TB. I opened up that Fast idle cam now and it's idling and working fine. What else is there?

The only thing that bugs me now is that cold start which sounds like it works on one rotor for couple of seconds or so.

Amel

 

Nothing else. I was just making sure you had the idle problem fixed.

Yes, mine started something similar after removing the emissions equipment. It's real lumping for about a minute or so after starting up. It's probably something you can program out with the PFC, AEM, Haltech or the other programmable ECUs, but I'm using a Pettit so I just ignore it.

 

I'll do the same then. Thanks a lot bud.

Amel