Does anyone here have the best ewp setuo for their fd
Please help me choose
thanks

 

there are many options depending on your set up. you will need to give us more information with what you have now so we can make a suggestion

 

I personally prefer the Meziere pumps to the Davies Craig pumps based on casement and construction alone, my gut feeling is that the Meziere pumps flow rates are less affected by pressure even though they don't publish this information (Davies Craig does, and it's pretty drastic). This is based on using a Meziere to cool a turbo 3 rotor and a Davies Craig on an NA 4 rotor, so I don't have any hard data specifically on flow, just on efficacy.

 

which model meziere pump are you talking about?

 

The WP386S. It's the same guts as the other 55GPM pumps they offer but in a lighter casing. I set up my own pump control strategy just by pulsing 100% with my PDM rather than a true PWM as I didn't see any benefits and it made for a simpler install with no SSR.

 

considering the cost, im not sure the meziere and the davies craig are comparable. with that, your experience seems about right. for a fair comparison of any 2 similar things, cost HAS to be factored in. it gives perspective.

 

I mean, ok? They're two aftermarket pumps that I've had experience with, hence the comparison. If they're outside of someones price range then so be it, however they both do the exact same thing: move water. It'd be great if someone wants to chime in on another cheaper pump (but awesome OE quality) such as a Pierburg CWA400, for the entire spread however I don't know of anyone who's used them yet on a 13B.

 

Rob Dahm has mentioned using the tinycwa on the 4 rotor previously (not sure if he says whether cwa200,cwa400)

I've got a cwa400 I'm going to use but it wont happen for a few months probably, the pierburg pumps seem to have much better pressure-flow graph characteristics, I also like that the tinycwa is a lot more configurable compared with the davies craig controller

 

i want to use the car daily but sometimes on track
Boost 20psi
haltech 1500
I just dont have faith anymore with my stock water pump.
it has been there for long time.

 

I looking for kit.. are they both suply kits

 

true.. also the space on engine will have ti be considered

 

Is that pump are electric too ?
Ive been using davies for long time
On my other engine.
Rzr turbo
4g63T
2jzgte

Meziere i use on my V8 Chevy blower.

Is the meziere we talking about is the big wp ?
if yes i might not have space on the bay

 

Neither of what I've described are kits. The only true kits I know are based on the Davies Craig parts.

 

Yes the cwa are electric see: https://tecomotive.com/store/en/bund...mp-tinycwa-kit

THe only rx7 specific kits I know of use the davies craig pumps, Check out sakebomb and turblown/turbosource EWP kits
The rx7 specific ones include the block off plate for the mechanical WP

 

I've been running a Davies Craig EWP 150 for a couple of years. I made my own kit because you can get the pump and controller from AU for a fraction of the price that US companies charge for them. Mine's been working great and hasn't shown any signs of slowdown even when I start the car at -30C. It's really great to have at an autocross when you're waiting in line, run hard for 1-2 minutes, then sit still for another 15 minutes. The system easily keeps temps in check.

Pros:
The controller is awesome for setting a desired temperature and super easy to use/understand.
Really nice to have when you're stuck in traffic.
You can set the controller to cool the car down after it's shut off. Super awesome feature.
Easy to install

Cons:
With the thermostat removed (like all the kits) the car takes long to get up to temp.
It over cools! Even with the temp set to the highest, and the fans off, the car will run around 70*C - 75*C on a hot day while driving.
Every once-in-a-while the fans will turn on when I start the car and the car won't warm up. Turning the car off & on fixes this.

 

thanks i really apreciatr on your comment
i also know da ies for years.. on my other race cars..
i knew their job..
And did you just removed the internal propeller ? And rerouting the water pump in out to the system ?
or using plate adapter on your engine ?
I also using this fd engine on e30 bmw chassis.. so i will not need any kit
Can you please attach pictures of your setup
thanks

 

a thermostat can be added but it adds complexity that some may not want

 

i think we cant use the thermostat anymore when we using ewp.
but let me know if im wrong

 

Correct, the stock one can't be used, but you can add an external one thus the added complexity I mentioned. Check this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-flow-1110563/

 

Incorrect. In fact, for any street driven car, I recommend keeping a thermostat if you convert to EWP because, as pointed out, it takes too long to warm up and it overcools under cruising conditions at speed, even if you use a controller to minimise pump speed.

The trick is to understand the purpose and design of the bypass system incorporated into the Mazda thermostat.

There are 3 ways to use a thermostat with EWP on a rotary:

(1) Easy version - Use the standard thermostat, but drill a small hole in it to provide a form of bypass (otherwise it won't work). This will still have a tendency to overcool, but the problem is significantly diminished. Make the hole about the same size and position as the factory jiggle pin.
(2) Harder version - Use the standard thermostat, but tap in a fitting to the standard bypass channel and route that to a point upstream of the EWP. I explain how to do that here: Electric water pump ??? - AusRotary - this method works fantastically. Now, I've never tried it with a FD water pump housing, but it was successful with a s5 turbo version. Warm up performance was better than factory. Cooling way better than factory and temperatures were extremely consistent.
(3) More complex but customisable version (great for use when you replace the whole water pump housing with an inlet/outlet flange and side mount alternator) - Use an inline remote thermostat housing with inbuilt bypass. I explained this in detail in the topic that neit_jnf linked. This is a lot more complicated in terms of plumbing but opens up different thermostat choices as well, but if the thermostat needs replacing, you need to replace the housing as a unit.

Also, an EWP150 will flow more than you will ever need in almost all rotary applications. Even an EWP80 works fine for most engines. Coolant flow really isn't that important in the scheme of things, at least nowhere near to the same degree as getting air through the radiator.

 

I removed the water pump (propeller), cut a small path in the housing for better coolant flow, and put a block off plate over it.

 

i think i will use sakebomb kit. So the plate came with the everything i need for the coolant flow.

 

https://black-mamba-racing.myshopify...-rotary-engine
there's many variants out there like this that let you remove the entire water pump housing - but requires all new hoses. Placement is wherever you want - as long as the pump is below the top of the radiator so it always has water. I have my pump placed on the driver's side frame rail (LHD) just above the steering rack, with a side mount alternator above it, with -16 braided hoses throughout. Or just get the full kit from sakebomb that keeps the WP housing and makes it a little easier without a ton of fabrication

 

Frankline Engineering in New Zealand makes a nice kit for and EWP. They offer a water neck delete option with A/N fitting or hose barb attachments or a full filler neck delete and alternator relocation kit. Both for a very reasonable price.

https://franklinperformance.nz/colle...17537818394714

 

Thanks.. i apreciate the comment
I will consider it.