Alright guys Im going to try to explain this best I can. When the car is cold (meaning overnight) she drives amazing for the first 10 mins. After she hits operating tempature she still ok as long as I dont do 2 things
a) Turn on the A/C
b) Drive Hard then Slow Down (with a/c off)

Now I live in Miami where its f*cking 100 degrees everyday so a/c is a must.
Let me explain now what happends when either one.
A) A/C on
Hold Clutch, Hold RPM's at 2,000. After 2 or 3 seconds it will begin to fluctuate. Just jump up and down from 2,000 down to 1,000 up to 2,000 again. This cause big problems when trying hold a cruising speed. The thing just starts bogging and bucking it's quite annoying.

b ) Going 75% to 100% throttle through 3 gears (not redlining just 5k shifts) then when I come to a light to stop. The motor acts like it wants to die and usually it does. Fluctiating between 700 to 1,000 rpm before it falls to like 400 and dies. Also when I pull a corner in idle (sharp no long) she will usually die too.

I know its a lengthy summary but ANY comments will help.
BTW Ive down ALOT of grounding work so I dont think its that. Could it be the 02 sensor?

 

Check this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=91723

 

Aye I read about the switch, I did a pretty extensive search before posting. I can't read anyhwhere about the RPM's Fluctuating. I mean these people are talking about stalling, mine just fluctuates. Yet I will try and check it out. BTW what part of the Mazda Manual would this procedue be in?
BTW This happens with the Clutch Depressed or Released. Obviously when its Depressed its at a light but when its Released im Rolling "trying" to hold a cruising speed.

 

It's an easy thing to check, so why not? I'm sure they had idle problems before it got to the point where the cars were stalling. But, it's up to you. I'm not sure what section of the manual that would be in, but that link I posted above tells you how to check it.

Also, you can check the TPS or ISC. Here's info on the TPS:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=170731

 

I read the thread's on the switch I guesse mine is working since its sticking all the way out. I guesse I can check the TPS. Thanks any other ideas before I go on?

 

Alright I checked the Clutch Switch thing :P, I guesse its working because when I press the clutch it sticks all the way out ( about half an inch or more) so could it ONLY be the TPS?

 

The clutch switch can physically move and be bad. You need to check it with a multimeter or the like.

Dale

 

How would you go about checking it with a multimeter and what type of readings should i be getting?

 

I had the same problem and unpuged the ISC. It is on the back side of the UIM with a white plug. When the car is bouncing unplug it and see if it is the problem. My car would bounce like mad when it got warm or if I turned I had electrical load.

 

i had a fluctuating idle problem (bounces from 2k-2500rpms) and it turned out to be a f*cked up AWS system...removed all that worthless stuff...no problems to this date.

-Zach

 

Whats this ICS thing? I dont want to go ripping stuff out before I know what it is?! Yet our problems sound similiar so I may go in and attack soon.

 

ISC = Idle Speed Controller

 

where is the uim? I have the same problem and adjusted the idle via that hidden screw by the throttle body. I raised the idle and it seems to do it less but I would love to get rid of this problem. It happened shortly after Cam from petit disconnected my airpump because it was dying. How do you check the throttle switch? If the cruise is on and you depress the clutch and the cruise doesnt disengage is that a test for a faulty switch?
thanks

 

Will this work?

 

Bump

 

Bump Bump
Is that possible guys?!

 

Bumpx3