EGI circuit short. Need some help (long)
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EGI circuit short. Need some help (long)
Ok everyone I searched about this problem regarding a short in the circuit and came up with only a couple of threads pertaining to the same problem that I have, but they weren't all that much help to me.
I'll break down how the problem started: I just went single and had the motor rebuilt. After breaking in the motor I began running some boost and doing some lighter pulls up to 5 psi. Anyway, on my second or third pull after fixing a boost issue I was shifting into third and as soon as I stepped on the gas again the car just died on me. Wouldn't restart. I couldn't hear the fuel pump click on. Immediately I checked the fuses and tried testing the fuel pump relay.
The fuses looked fine, or so I thought until last night. The break in the filament on the EGI fuse was so small I couldn't see it until I tapped the fuse and the filament fell down. So naturally I went out to the local auto parts store to buy a couple of new fuses. Put a new one in, turned the key and bam 5 maybe 10 seconds later fuse blows again.
Now the threads I've found have mentioned checking the connections to the battery which I did and all are tight. I plan on going through the wiring diagram tonight for the car to test the ECU and other electrical parts in that circuit to see if they're connected correctly or grounded correctly. Is there a way to test the EGI relay similar to how to test the fuel pump relay?
Mods to the car that may help you guys in helping me are:
Apexi PFC w/ commander
B&M new volt
Greddy Profec B spec 2
Apexi auto timer
upgraded fuel pump
I believe those are all the electrical units that could tie into that system. Any suggestions on where to check would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Nic
edit: I'm also using a hawker mini odyssey battery up next to my v-mount. I plan on checking if the bracket made to hold the battery in place up there might have cut the insulation on the egi wire and therefore is shorting the wire out on the bracket.
I'll break down how the problem started: I just went single and had the motor rebuilt. After breaking in the motor I began running some boost and doing some lighter pulls up to 5 psi. Anyway, on my second or third pull after fixing a boost issue I was shifting into third and as soon as I stepped on the gas again the car just died on me. Wouldn't restart. I couldn't hear the fuel pump click on. Immediately I checked the fuses and tried testing the fuel pump relay.
The fuses looked fine, or so I thought until last night. The break in the filament on the EGI fuse was so small I couldn't see it until I tapped the fuse and the filament fell down. So naturally I went out to the local auto parts store to buy a couple of new fuses. Put a new one in, turned the key and bam 5 maybe 10 seconds later fuse blows again.
Now the threads I've found have mentioned checking the connections to the battery which I did and all are tight. I plan on going through the wiring diagram tonight for the car to test the ECU and other electrical parts in that circuit to see if they're connected correctly or grounded correctly. Is there a way to test the EGI relay similar to how to test the fuel pump relay?
Mods to the car that may help you guys in helping me are:
Apexi PFC w/ commander
B&M new volt
Greddy Profec B spec 2
Apexi auto timer
upgraded fuel pump
I believe those are all the electrical units that could tie into that system. Any suggestions on where to check would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
-Nic
edit: I'm also using a hawker mini odyssey battery up next to my v-mount. I plan on checking if the bracket made to hold the battery in place up there might have cut the insulation on the egi wire and therefore is shorting the wire out on the bracket.
Last edited by Broken09; 08-28-03 at 08:45 AM.
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Do a search on all forums for "EGI FUSE", or for screenname HAILERS. HAILERS seems to know a lot about the wiring diagrams and EGI problems. He owns a 2nd Gen, so you'll see him replying to threads in the 2nd gen forum.
Are you attempting to crank the motor? or will the fuse blow when the key is put to the on position?
HAILERS did a quick writeup on how to locate the problem by process of elimination. But some of the things to look at are:
-ECU wiring
-Battery wiring between battery and FD-02 fuse box
-Wiring to from FD-01 fuse box.
-Alternator and wiring
-Solenoids under UIM
It's hard to say what your problem will be...from my understanding you kinda have to go through all you stuff and looks for any shorts or grounding problems. I had this problem a few days ago, but luckily it was just a loose wire from the battery positive to the FD-02 fuse box (EGI, HEAD, RETRACTR, etc).
Are you attempting to crank the motor? or will the fuse blow when the key is put to the on position?
HAILERS did a quick writeup on how to locate the problem by process of elimination. But some of the things to look at are:
-ECU wiring
-Battery wiring between battery and FD-02 fuse box
-Wiring to from FD-01 fuse box.
-Alternator and wiring
-Solenoids under UIM
It's hard to say what your problem will be...from my understanding you kinda have to go through all you stuff and looks for any shorts or grounding problems. I had this problem a few days ago, but luckily it was just a loose wire from the battery positive to the FD-02 fuse box (EGI, HEAD, RETRACTR, etc).
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thanks ludeowner, I had seen your previous post about that but I limited my search to the 3rd gen forum. I'll just have to go through all my wires. It's probably a ground that gotten shaken loose at high rpm. Oh well. Thanks though
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Originally posted by Broken09
thanks ludeowner, I had seen your previous post about that but I limited my search to the 3rd gen forum. I'll just have to go through all my wires. It's probably a ground that gotten shaken loose at high rpm. Oh well. Thanks though
thanks ludeowner, I had seen your previous post about that but I limited my search to the 3rd gen forum. I'll just have to go through all my wires. It's probably a ground that gotten shaken loose at high rpm. Oh well. Thanks though
Just check your ECU and the solenoids under the UIM for loose grounds or shorts. If you want to get that exact process study the electrical diagrams or PM HAILERS for some help.
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