Easy way to remove flywheel nut without impact gun
#1
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Easy way to remove flywheel nut without impact gun
I don't think I've seen it explained this way, but maybe some of you guys have tried this as an easy way to remove the flywheel nut. I just slid half of my jack handle over an 18" breaker bar and jacked up the end till I heard the loud pop of it braking loose, pretty effortless.
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Hey,
I hate to tell you this...but its impossible...IMO...I tried prying on mine for 2 days...(no bullshit) Didnt even get it to budge...
So i finally broke down and bought a $69 dollar impact and borrowed a small air compressor and it came off in about 30 seconds,,, save yourself the time and hassle and pick up a air compresser...
Goodluck,
Shawn
I hate to tell you this...but its impossible...IMO...I tried prying on mine for 2 days...(no bullshit) Didnt even get it to budge...
So i finally broke down and bought a $69 dollar impact and borrowed a small air compressor and it came off in about 30 seconds,,, save yourself the time and hassle and pick up a air compresser...
Goodluck,
Shawn
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by impactwrench
Ya, thats great except the details about how the excentric shaft was kept from turning while you did that.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-220TB
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
You can see the flywheel holder tool up near the top.
The jack and handle trick works - sometimes. The nice thing is you can put a bunch of pressure on it and then heat it without removing the pressure. Definitely wear safety glasses in case something breaks.
Dave
The jack and handle trick works - sometimes. The nice thing is you can put a bunch of pressure on it and then heat it without removing the pressure. Definitely wear safety glasses in case something breaks.
Dave
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That flywheel nut is the toughest nut ive ever had to bust in my 15 years of car mechanics,,, i ended up having to make a large brace for the flywheel and someone stood on the engine with a good impact socket and 6 foot bar on the pulley shaft nut on the other end of the E shaft
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chunky04
Hey,
I hate to tell you this...but its impossible...IMO...I tried prying on mine for 2 days...(no bullshit) Didnt even get it to budge...
So i finally broke down and bought a $69 dollar impact and borrowed a small air compressor and it came off in about 30 seconds,,, save yourself the time and hassle and pick up a air compresser...
Goodluck,
Shawn
I hate to tell you this...but its impossible...IMO...I tried prying on mine for 2 days...(no bullshit) Didnt even get it to budge...
So i finally broke down and bought a $69 dollar impact and borrowed a small air compressor and it came off in about 30 seconds,,, save yourself the time and hassle and pick up a air compresser...
Goodluck,
Shawn
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by USCmatt
Look at "1 o'clock" on the flywheel and you'll see a flywheel stopper from mazdatrix
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-220TB
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-220TB
#14
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I don't remember the fly wheel tool being recomended for an automatic. Word of caution here, It might have worked this time, but it could also bust the flex plate ring gear. Not trying to rain on your idea, sometimes desperation causes us to take extreem measures to get to the end product. It is clever I'll give you that.
Terry7
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Originally Posted by twokrx7
I never have issues with the flywheel nut, impact usually takes it right off. It's that eccentric shaft bolt on the front that is the real bi*ch.
Its that stupid thread locker they put on it.
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Some years age I made a hammer wrench on the EDM at work,the lever part I hit on is about 8 to 10 inches long .I can remove the nut with the engine in the car if needed with out the air tool . I do have a 3/4 inch air tool as well .
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I've done two recently, I tried a cheap new electric gun and my engine laughed at me! In fact one engine was a factory original and one was a reman. I ended up heating both nuts for 10 minutes or so with a small propane torch. That made all the difference. The front bolt has been the easier of the two on both engines. No heat was needed. Yes I had a two foot breaker bar plus a three foot piece of pipe and I go around 230 lbs. I have bent a home made 1/4" flat stock stopper bar bolted to the flywheel before. What I found works best is a 1/2" drive / 2" extension wedged between the counterbalance on the automatic and the engine long bolts. No place to bolt a bar there with out the flywheel.
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Originally Posted by twokrx7
I never have issues with the flywheel nut, impact usually takes it right off. It's that eccentric shaft bolt on the front that is the real bi*ch.
I'll second that. I've the same issue with the original motor I took out of my car. I got the flywheel nut loose okay but have yet to get the bolt on the front of the e-shaft to give it up. I have't tried heat yet but have used a significantly endowed 3/4 impact with out success. I'll make an angle iron brace and try a breaker bar next.