easy way to make your check engine light work with Power FC.
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easy way to make your check engine light work with Power FC.
To make your check engine light work with the power FC is just a few simple steps. The check engine light will illuminate when you turn the key to the ACC Position, when you start the engine it will go off. In my state the check engine light must work in order to pass emissions, so thats why I did it. I do think the power FC flashes the check engine light when there is a problem and its a better location anyway....
Materials:
12V LED at radioshack. 1.99
8 feet of 16 gauge wire 2.00
1) Remove the gauge cluster ..
2) take 2 4 foot lenghts of 16 gauge wire and sauder each one to the contacts of the LED.
3) stick the bulb in the cluster where your check engine light bulb is, save the check engine bulb as you can use it if another bulb burns out.
4) take some silicon glue (just a small amount) to hold it in place.
5) Remove the shifter consol.
6) connect the gauge cluster, leave enough room to get your hands behind it. Take the other ends of the 16 gauge wire and route them behind your center console, downpast the radio and eventually under the shifter consol.
7) remove the bulb to the exhaust overheat light. This is very simple, a screwdriver can be used.
8)sauder one end of the LED wire to the right contact and the other end of the LED wire to the left contact of the exhaust overheat light. Alternately, you may be able to splice it into some of the wires in the harness to the exhaust overheat light, but I didnt investigate that.
Put everything back together. All in all this is about a 30 minute job from start to finish.
Materials:
12V LED at radioshack. 1.99
8 feet of 16 gauge wire 2.00
1) Remove the gauge cluster ..
2) take 2 4 foot lenghts of 16 gauge wire and sauder each one to the contacts of the LED.
3) stick the bulb in the cluster where your check engine light bulb is, save the check engine bulb as you can use it if another bulb burns out.
4) take some silicon glue (just a small amount) to hold it in place.
5) Remove the shifter consol.
6) connect the gauge cluster, leave enough room to get your hands behind it. Take the other ends of the 16 gauge wire and route them behind your center console, downpast the radio and eventually under the shifter consol.
7) remove the bulb to the exhaust overheat light. This is very simple, a screwdriver can be used.
8)sauder one end of the LED wire to the right contact and the other end of the LED wire to the left contact of the exhaust overheat light. Alternately, you may be able to splice it into some of the wires in the harness to the exhaust overheat light, but I didnt investigate that.
Put everything back together. All in all this is about a 30 minute job from start to finish.
#3
OG
geez.. I just stuck the old stock ecu in for the test.. when I clipped the wires for the original PFC install I added quick disconnects to the 4 wires... easy ECU swaps now.
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Originally posted by Johnny
geez.. I just stuck the old stock ecu in for the test.. when I clipped the wires for the original PFC install I added quick disconnects to the 4 wires... easy ECU swaps now.
geez.. I just stuck the old stock ecu in for the test.. when I clipped the wires for the original PFC install I added quick disconnects to the 4 wires... easy ECU swaps now.
but otherwise thats a great idea too
#6
Super Snuggles
This was your top secret project, I assume?
It's "solder", not "sauder", by the way. It was probably even printed somewhere on the roll of soldering wire you used...
It's "solder", not "sauder", by the way. It was probably even printed somewhere on the roll of soldering wire you used...
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Originally posted by jimlab
This was your top secret project, I assume?
It's "solder", not "sauder", by the way. It was probably even printed somewhere on the roll of soldering wire you used...
This was your top secret project, I assume?
It's "solder", not "sauder", by the way. It was probably even printed somewhere on the roll of soldering wire you used...
I prefer "Sauder", is that ok with you?
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Originally posted by TangoSore
Why would anyone prefer a blatant misspelling? Jimlab is right to correct you, even though "top secret" should be hyphenated.
Platitudinous hubris, I know, I know.
Why would anyone prefer a blatant misspelling? Jimlab is right to correct you, even though "top secret" should be hyphenated.
Platitudinous hubris, I know, I know.
#11
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by TangoSore
Why would anyone prefer a blatant misspelling?
Why would anyone prefer a blatant misspelling?
even though "top secret" should be hyphenated
#13
JL: Yes, that is preferred.
ZB: Yes, it was off-topic and I acknowledged as much with the "hubris" statement. It's just that you wrote that you PREFER "sauder" that raised my uni-brow.
Nice write-up on the PFC mod.--a boon for any saddled with the emissions bureaucracy.
"You want to suck his," is a sentence fragment. Use a semi-colon or a dash after "...and be (a) dick."
Okay?
ZB: Yes, it was off-topic and I acknowledged as much with the "hubris" statement. It's just that you wrote that you PREFER "sauder" that raised my uni-brow.
Nice write-up on the PFC mod.--a boon for any saddled with the emissions bureaucracy.
"You want to suck his," is a sentence fragment. Use a semi-colon or a dash after "...and be (a) dick."
Okay?
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Originally posted by evot23
FL. no emissions. Thank GOD!
FL. no emissions. Thank GOD!
In a way, I wish we had this in FL. If you have ever been down to Miami, you will probably have seen the crazy POSs plenty of cubans down here drive around in.
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Originally posted by RX-187
Off Topic: I thought you had ditched your FD or somethin' Zero. I haven't seen you on here in awhile.
Off Topic: I thought you had ditched your FD or somethin' Zero. I haven't seen you on here in awhile.
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Originally posted by ZeroBanger
I quit posting partly because of the way threads like this turn out.
I quit posting partly because of the way threads like this turn out.
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