rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

It looks pretty simple and plausible, has anyone done this proceedure and could supply a few pointers and tips on problems to avoid, or any tips on removal and reinstallation?

Are there any good threads detailing the steps on how to do this specific proceedure correctly of note that anyone can remember or has a link they could provide?


Any good things to replace or check when replacing a transmission? Main seal, drive train components,ect?

(I have a odd phenomena where it feels like the car/drivetrain is bouncing back and forth when at low speed and no/little power, any ideas what this could be?)I am hoping it has a lot to do with the diff bushings, but would love to take care of any other items that might cause this.

Also doing a full set of suspension bushings and pillowballs, as well as any maintenance items i can find along the way.

Any good tips or recommendations while undertaking this endeavor?

TIA


The front arms and bushings came out really nice after a quick sandblast, and clear coat.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Pulling the trans isn't that bad of a job.

If you don't have a transmission jack, get one -

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

I've done TONS of clutch jobs without one, finally got one of these in the past year and wished I had it ages ago. Makes it easier and SAFER to get the trans back in place.

This is a good time to drain the gear oil and replace with a good synthetic gear lube.

If you're ever thinking about going with a light flywheel, now's the time too. You'll be in there. Get the lightest you can find (usually 9 pounds) and you'll be in great shape.

If the pilot bearing is good, leave it. Might want to replace the seal. Make sure to put fresh grease on it.

Grease any metal-metal contact points (throwout bearing shaft, tabs touching TO bearing, end of clutch fork where slave touches) and put Loctite on any mission-critical fasteners (pressure plate bolts). Examine PPF for cracking.

Biggest chore is getting the trans back in there. Just did a clutch job on an FD last weekend, took about 2 hours for the trans to FINALLY agree to go in. Sometimes they just pop right in. No rhyme or reason I've found.

Dale

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

If you're running an aftermarket clutch, it's a very good idea to pick up a the newer, updated clutch fork. Malloy Mazda sells them for around $100, give Ray a call at 888 533 3400. I've seen more original ones break than I can count, and it's no fun to be stranded on the side of the road.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

+1 on the transmission jack - I've never used a regular floor jack for the tranny or the diff - it looked like a good way to get hurt.

This is the jack I used http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...jack-3185.html

One tip - remove the bracket for the clutch slave line. It is on the drivers side at the front of the transmission. It's kind of hard to reach, but not that bad.

That little bracket was making it difficult to pull the transmission as it kept hanging up on the transmission tunnel.

Should you replace the pilot bearing, get a tool designed for it. I bought the $90 tool from Mazdatrix. Yes, it was spendy, but it would be pretty hard to remove that bearing without it.

If you replace the rear seal on the transmission, be careful with any tools used, as it is very easy to gouge the tranny case. Found that out the hard way, before causing irreparable damage.

One more tip - remove the UIM - it is much easier to start the bolts at the top of the tranny when you can do it from the top.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

So the transmission will come out while leaving the engine in no problem right?



I was looking around, trying to see if I could find any indication of why my car does the “back and forth jiggle” when under low/no power while rolling at low speed.

How much play should be between the drive line and wheel output drive shafts?

With the ebrake on the rear output shafts do not move, but I can rotate the drive line 10-20 degrees, and as far as I can tell, there is near zero gear lash (the green output shaft cups move instantly), but the output shafts seem to opposingly slightly pull in and out, as well as turn inside the “cup” or CV.

So most of the drive line play I can locate is entirely inside these CV green “cups”
And just from instinct feels like about the amount I would feel inside the car as it kind of bounces back and forth at very low power on a flat surface.

Are these parts out of tolerance?

Is it possible the rocking action I am trying to track down has something to do with the slop in these parts, or is this a normal amount of play?

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

BTW thanks for all the tips guys.



I also have a question about clutch pressure.

I was wondering if there is any clever ways to decrease the amount of effort to depress the clutch?

I know there are a few Masters that are compatible, but are there any systems that allow a person to utilize the leverage of the stock system, while only needing to make sure the adjustment is in a tighter range?

I ask for the simple reason that I have always tried to make my car accessible to others in a emergency (only if need be in the worst of conditions, think end of days ) but I have had comments that it is a very hard pedal feel, making it “hard to push” even though actuation and usability is exceptional.

The clutch is an Exedy duel plate sprung carbon.
While I really enjoy the visceral mechanical feel of the clutch, I was driving a much more civilized manual vehicle the other day, and could see how that may pose a real issue for someone that was not used to it.

Any ideas on this thought?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I suggest that you drain the fluid before removal, and refill with Neo Brand after reinstalling. Neo seems to be the consensus choice of many on this forum.

I removed the flywheel nuts to release the tranny from the flywheel. It worked well for me.

I suggest replacing the pilot and throw out bearings if they have more than 20K on them.

Don't let anyone drive your car. If they drive it in a real emergency they will be in a hurry, and even more likely to wreck it.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

I dont remember, but I think if you have an older car there was a new part to shift between 3rd and 5th easier, I think it was a clutch spindle

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

If you're leaving the engine in the car you'll need to keep it from dropping toward the nose of the car.

Either a brace bar on top or prop it up with something.

This is important because if the engine is tilted even a little it's impossible to mate them back up.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

+1 on the clutch fork, I had to replace mine this summer, took me 3 hrs from start to finish this summer.

MuRCieLaGo

iTrader: (14)

You can also look if the Power Plant Frame is OK, it tends to crack.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

All great tips thanks!

Does anyone have any tips as to where to look for cracking and or stress fractures on the PPF?

That was on my todo list, to go over the PPF carefully .

Where do the cracks typically start, and assuming there are propagations starting, what is the proper resolution?

I have seen welding jobs and reinforcements done to the PPF, but I am going to guess mine probably does not have any issues nor will need repair, but I would definitely like to check it out thoroughly so I can confidently mark that off my list.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Yes I understand that, this is why if I have a theme to my car, it would be to always keep streetability in mind with any change. But if worst came to worst, I would feel like a real idiot if my car was unusable by another person.

And I believe I have successfully accomplished making/keeping my car able to be used by a layperson.

And while I dont believe I could stick someone in my car that does not know how to use a clutch, I believe that a person versed in the use of a clutch would be able to use my car with little issue.

jjoshj

They tend to crack on the fingers. Here's where mine cracked recently:

The diff end "fingers"



Also right in the middle bottom of it:



I brought a second hand one and seam welded it up. Will be interesting to see how it holds up.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*It may not make much difference, but I always use an index mark on the drive-shaft to differential so I bolt it up exactly like it came apart.

*Rather than removing the UIM, I use a 3/8 drive extensions and a universal with a 14mm shallow socket to get the top two bell-housing bolts.

*If you remove the flywheel for any reason, it wouldn't cost a thing to re-torque the engine tension bolts. Just do it in the order set out in the FSM.

*Again, if the flywheel comes off you could change the rear main seal. IIRC they only cost about $10.

*You can buy this http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...6-001b2166becc to remove the pilot bearing. Pretty cheap and if your a DIY'er, you'll probably use it again at some point...on something.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

* For keeping the engine from moving, a simple 2x4 between the engine and the cradle works great.

* As mentioned, be sure to mark the driveshaft flange and diff flanges. You want it to go back on the same.

* Have a friend help. Trying to manhandle the tranny from your back is a pain.

* Don't forget to pop the release ring from the throughout bearing before trying to fully separate the engine and tranny. Some people forget about it and end up chewing up that ring by tugging on the tranny. They are about $30 new. Two long screwdrivers through the windows on the bellhousing allows access. If that ring is warped or bent in any way, replace it! It holds the entire weight of the pressure plate. A video below...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4...7F7459D9EC6E1B

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

This is a must REPLACE THE RELEASE BEARING,CLIP, COLLAR AND THROW OUT!!!!!You dont want to do all this work and put everything back in to realize your car wont go into any gear because the snap ring is busted. Then you will have to drop the tranny back out just for a small ring or collar.

5 forum bucks for you XLR8 great post

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much, that is perfect, now I can look right were those cracks are and make a concerted effort to look specifically in those areas,

Do you or anyone happen to know if these pictures are indicative of were most PPF are having issue?

Are there anymore spots that the PPF are having issue or tend to crack?

I know its a issue of hard launches and heavy use in most circumstances, but I really want to make sure mine is in pristine condition just for my own satisfaction.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

The diff seems to have a light/med amount of gunk built up around the surface, does this indicate a need to replace the output shaft seals, or is a slight amount of film to be expected?

I also have a question about the bushings for the rear lower control arm.
Most all the bushings are of the spherical type, a fact which I was not aware of, does the motion of these require a 3 dimensional joint?

How do the aftermarket bushings deal with this? Presumably they are only really designed for 2 dimensional rotation correct?

I have a full set of bushings as well as the 6 spherical pillowballs, I understand this has been done many times, but why are are the stock bushings of the spherical type if they are not required?

technomentor

iTrader: (18)

Replace shifter bushing under the shift lever.

If you plan to buy tools from harbor freight, consider buying online even if you have one local. I just bought a new 1-ton engine stand + other stuff and found it was cheaper to have it shipped to me from CA then to drive the 90 mile round trip. Plus I got to spend two extra hrs working on my car and not dealing w/traffic.

Also, first do an Internet search for "harbor freight discount codes" before you place your online order. I found one for 20% off a single item + a 10 % Nov discount code. Discounts even apply to sale prices.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If your talking about the side (axle) seals, yes that gunk would indicate they need replacing. They're cheap though...and it's a relatively easy job: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=axle

cohbra

iTrader: (13)

It is not that big of a job if you are mechanically inclined. I recently had to pull my transmission because, like an idiot, I installed my clutch disk backwards when putting my motor back in on my build. It only took about 2 hours to remove and then reinstall. I don't use a tranny jack though. I prefer to put the car up on jack stands as high as I can, then crawl under the car and then drag the tranny onto my chest and man-handle it up into place. You should have someone standing by with the floor jack to take the weight off of the tail shaft though in case you get tired.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the link, that describes what a leaky diff seal would look like well.
Mine looks nothing like that, no wet surfaces at all, but this could be due to the severity of the leak, or length of time right?
I have never had a drip from this area appear on the floor ever.

I am going to replace my diff seals regardless, but.....
I wonder if that was my issue?

I have a greasy almost dry substance on the rear subframe and top of diff that would appear to radiate from the axles, but it also lines up fairly well with the diff bushings.

Because the diff bushings are supposedly fluid filled, could the substance and buildup I see in the area have come from the bushings possibly?

I am thinking highly unlikely, but as far as I can tell the diff seals dont really show any signs of leaking directly.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Diff bushings will/do leak occasionally. And it is an oily fluid. Time to get the flashlight out.

I wouldn't worry about the axle seals unless your convinced they're leaking. Most probably out-last the rest of the car. And if they do begin leaking, it's not a sudden catastrophic failure.
If your not certain about the axle seals, clean them really well, top off your diff gear oil and then watch for signs of fresh oil at the seal.