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E-Shaft Thermal Pellet mod

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Old 04-10-05, 10:58 PM
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E-Shaft Thermal Pellet mod

Whos using the replacement thermal pellet? I am looking for any pros and cons to it or any other feedback. I did some searching and all sounds good, but with everything else there is always a trade off.
Old 04-11-05, 12:32 AM
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I forgot which shop sells it but they list it on ebay. The trade off is the ball & spring method doesn't let the oil circulate for faster warmups. The bad part to that is if it gets stuck closed the oil doesn't get cooled and thus the thermal pellet is used to prevent this. It's in the rebuild video
Old 04-11-05, 01:13 AM
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Atkins Rotary is the place that sells them.
Old 04-11-05, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
I forgot which shop sells it but they list it on ebay. The trade off is the ball & spring method doesn't let the oil circulate for faster warmups. The bad part to that is if it gets stuck closed the oil doesn't get cooled and thus the thermal pellet is used to prevent this. It's in the rebuild video
The thermal pellet mod is different than the ball and spring removal/swap with Weber carb jets.

The ball and spring is in the e-shaft, the thermal pellet is behind the e-shaft bolt. I haven't heard of any cons on the thermal pellet mod, but the pro is that the oil circulates when the oil is cold.

The purpose of the thermal pellet is to keep the oil inside to warm up faster but doesn't allow for full circulation which leads to wearing of the bearings faster.

Using the thermal pellet mod, it stays open all the time and oil circulates even on cold starts, but takes a bit longer to warm up.

The oil jets (ball and spring) is for oil flow control. The more pressure, the more the ball and spring allow oil onto the shaft. When you swap with the carb jets, you effectively allow more oil to flow as there is less restriction.

Last edited by atihun; 04-11-05 at 01:32 AM.
Old 04-11-05, 07:30 AM
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This maybe stupid, but you said about it taking longer to warm up, we are not talking much right? Its not like you are flowing all the oil thru there.
Old 04-11-05, 08:04 AM
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atihun pretty much nailed it. Basically, I can't think of a good reason NOT to run the replacement plug. IMHO, anytime you take the front hub off for the first time, you should replace the thermopellet with the plug.

Technically, there is a slightly longer warm-up time. However, I've never really seen any noticable difference.

-Rob
Old 04-11-05, 12:44 PM
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Thats what I fugured, besides proper warmup is the most critical phase.
Old 04-11-05, 01:16 PM
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Oh, yeah I believe the video also said that earlier 13B's did have the thermal pellet ...or was that the ball & spring? So if purchasing a new one it may be possible to just use an older version. ...I think. I'll have to watch the video again at work today. I'll post again if no one corrects this.
Old 04-11-05, 02:05 PM
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84-85 13B's did NOT use the thermopellet. Every engine 86+ uses the thermopellet. They all have the same part number, and therefore should be exactly the same part. In other words, there is no price difference between an 86 and a 93 thermopellet.

-Rob
Old 04-11-05, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by saxyman990
84-85 13B's did NOT use the thermopellet. Every engine 86+ uses the thermopellet. They all have the same part number, and therefore should be exactly the same part. In other words, there is no price difference between an 86 and a 93 thermopellet.

-Rob
Thats right. I believe Max Cooper is running a 1985 13B E-shaft. Now what would be curious to know which actually flows better, stronger, etc.
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