View Poll Results: Which would you prefer
Dyno Tune



17
60.71%
Street Tune



11
39.29%
Voters: 28. You may not vote on this poll
Dyno Tune or Street Tune
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Dyno Tune or Street Tune
If you had to decide which way to go about getting your car tuned, what would you pick and why?
What are the pro's and con's of each?
What are the pro's and con's of each?
dyno tune= good AFR's and reliability
street tune= WTF are my AFR's and Boom!!
but seriously if you have a wide band and you know what your doing you could do a good street tune. Key words "IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING".
street tune= WTF are my AFR's and Boom!!
but seriously if you have a wide band and you know what your doing you could do a good street tune. Key words "IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING".
Both have advantages.
Street tune- You get real street conditions, load drag and cool air for the intake and the intercooler. No dyno costs.
Explain to the cop why you were doing 4th gear rolls a triple digits...
Dyno- no bumps, no traffic, quick pulls, loud, smell, not the same loading...dyno costs
Street tune- You get real street conditions, load drag and cool air for the intake and the intercooler. No dyno costs.
Explain to the cop why you were doing 4th gear rolls a triple digits...
Dyno- no bumps, no traffic, quick pulls, loud, smell, not the same loading...dyno costs
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Those of you who have had your cars tuned on a dyno and then watched AFRs with a wideband on the street, do you notice that the car runs richer on the street than on the dyno or vice-versa? I would imagine that because the dyno allows the car go through the RPMs much more quickly (4th gear pull takes maybe half as long as on the street because of a lack of wind resistance and other such things), the AFRs could actually be richer on the street because the car has more time to react. I'm just speculating...
I would think that street tune would be better for getting real conditions with true afr during driving.
On a dyno you dont have to worry about cops, you get through the power band much quicker, so less strain on the motor, and you get a read out of how much power you are making (or you can view gains or losses in power).
Adam
On a dyno you dont have to worry about cops, you get through the power band much quicker, so less strain on the motor, and you get a read out of how much power you are making (or you can view gains or losses in power).
Adam
best is a combination of both, the dyno dosent create real load so boost will typically be higher on a dyno than on a road. so you need to adjust for that once you get off the dyno. Also cooling on the dyno is no where near what it is on the road.
at txs we always dyno tune the car and take it out for a 15-30 minute road tune afterwards to check for anything weird and make sure the car is doing what its supposed to be doing.
at txs we always dyno tune the car and take it out for a 15-30 minute road tune afterwards to check for anything weird and make sure the car is doing what its supposed to be doing.
Originally Posted by XSTransAm
best is a combination of both, the dyno dosent create real load so boost will typically be higher on a dyno than on a road. so you need to adjust for that once you get off the dyno. Also cooling on the dyno is no where near what it is on the road.
at txs we always dyno tune the car and take it out for a 15-30 minute road tune afterwards to check for anything weird and make sure the car is doing what its supposed to be doing.
at txs we always dyno tune the car and take it out for a 15-30 minute road tune afterwards to check for anything weird and make sure the car is doing what its supposed to be doing.
Also, if you tune dead on on the dyno, will your AFRs be leaner or richer on the street?
Originally Posted by apneablue
So do tuners who tune on a dyno take into consideration that numbers on the street are going to be slightly different? Do they try to compensate on the dyno for this difference?
Also, if you tune dead on on the dyno, will your AFRs be leaner or richer on the street?
Also, if you tune dead on on the dyno, will your AFRs be leaner or richer on the street?
Their is no way to compensate perfectly for different numbers from the dyno to the street, the dyno is used as a tool to get a baseline and make improvements from their.
from my expirence afrs are pretty consistent from dyno to the street, but sometimes doing a street tune will show a hole in a map (maybe a little under full throttle ect) that the dyno didnt find. thats why its good to always street tune after a dyno tune.
The biggest difference like i said before is boost, it can be up to a whole 2 psi difference based on the load the dyno does vs the street.
Originally Posted by jeremyb
So if I wanted to get tuned for 13 psi, and I got dyno tuned... I run the risk of hitting 15 boost on the dyno? Then you go on the street to fix the kinks to tune back to 13 psi and not 15?
Jeremy
Jeremy
I cant speak for other tuners, but we would start you significantly lower than 13 psi, get the afrs perfect, then up the boost slowly to 13 while keeping afrs in check. Take it out on the road make sure the boost is still hitting 13 and there you go.
tuning on a dynapack.
Originally Posted by XSTransAm
I cant speak for other tuners, but we would start you significantly lower than 13 psi, get the afrs perfect, then up the boost slowly to 13 while keeping afrs in check. Take it out on the road make sure the boost is still hitting 13 and there you go.
tuning on a dynapack.
tuning on a dynapack.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by Mr rx-7 tt
Both have advantages.
Street tune- You get real street conditions, load drag and cool air for the intake and the intercooler. No dyno costs.
Explain to the cop why you were doing 4th gear rolls a triple digits...
Dyno- no bumps, no traffic, quick pulls, loud, smell, not the same loading...dyno costs
Street tune- You get real street conditions, load drag and cool air for the intake and the intercooler. No dyno costs.
Explain to the cop why you were doing 4th gear rolls a triple digits...
Dyno- no bumps, no traffic, quick pulls, loud, smell, not the same loading...dyno costs
I don't want to get caught doing 140MPH and have my car go the crusher. (funny thing in So. Cal how they handle these types of speeding situations.
)Also, since I am in the city, space is tight, and there really are not too many roads to pull this off on. So, it will be on the Fwy with other traffic.
The only plus that I can see is that a street tune will give real driving conditions, and this is what I think would be ideal for tuning.
Originally Posted by XSTransAm
I cant speak for other tuners, but we would start you significantly lower than 13 psi, get the afrs perfect, then up the boost slowly to 13 while keeping afrs in check. Take it out on the road make sure the boost is still hitting 13 and there you go.
tuning on a dynapack.
tuning on a dynapack.

But still I am not understanding...If you dyno tune, and leave it that way. Do you stand a chance of running leaner? And if you tuned for say 16psi on the dyno, would you end up getting lower or higher on the street...I'm sorry if I missed the point in a previous post. I am not quite with it right now.
Originally Posted by apneablue
This is what Steve Kan did when street tuning my car. He started with the BC off and tuned for that...he did pulls 3rd gear pulls for every PSI below 10 and after 10psi it was done in 4th gear. But he would up it 1psi each time and tune for each until we hit the desired PSI...Or until you have ignition breakup and can't go anymore 
But still I am not understanding...If you dyno tune, and leave it that way. Do you stand a chance of running leaner? And if you tuned for say 16psi on the dyno, would you end up getting lower or higher on the street...I'm sorry if I missed the point in a previous post. I am not quite with it right now.

But still I am not understanding...If you dyno tune, and leave it that way. Do you stand a chance of running leaner? And if you tuned for say 16psi on the dyno, would you end up getting lower or higher on the street...I'm sorry if I missed the point in a previous post. I am not quite with it right now.
you dont run leaner, but you run the risk of having glitches in the map from conditions that the dyno just cannot recreate. (shift conditions, on off throttle, part throttle boost ect) also if you tuned for 16psi on the dyno, chances are when taking it on the street, in the same gear you would not hit 16psi on the road.
Originally Posted by XSTransAm
you dont run leaner, but you run the risk of having glitches in the map from conditions that the dyno just cannot recreate. (shift conditions, on off throttle, part throttle boost ect) also if you tuned for 16psi on the dyno, chances are when taking it on the street, in the same gear you would not hit 16psi on the road.
If you had to choose one or the other...Not both..What would you go with, Dyno or Street?
Originally Posted by apneablue
Ok, I think I understand. On the street you are going to hit certain cells that you wouldn't on the dyno...Because the dyno would be simulating perfect conditions (well, minus the heat soak) Right?
If you had to choose one or the other...Not both..What would you go with, Dyno or Street?
If you had to choose one or the other...Not both..What would you go with, Dyno or Street?
me personally? I would choose street, (leaving out the inherent risks of street tuning) Dyno numbers are good an all to know, and are the best way to squeeze out every little bit of hp. but i think a street tune is more pratical for the a daily driven car, since that is where you will be driving the car.
Originally Posted by fastcarfreak
I would think that street tune would be better for getting real conditions with true afr during driving.
On a dyno you dont have to worry about cops, you get through the power band much quicker, so less strain on the motor, and you get a read out of how much power you are making (or you can view gains or losses in power).
Adam
On a dyno you dont have to worry about cops, you get through the power band much quicker, so less strain on the motor, and you get a read out of how much power you are making (or you can view gains or losses in power).
Adam
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