msilvia Wonder what that SMIC is. Looks like a nice compact fit for a stockish engine bay.

Did you re-use the stock IC ducting?

To me it looks like the old SR Motorsports intercooler which does use the stock duct, but is thicker core than stock.
Because the core is thicker the clearance from stock lower pipe to front pulley is VERY close to none. You cannot use stock IC hard pipes because the thicker core forces the stock lower pipe to bend more than 90deg at the inlet.

I painted mine black as well and put the stock cross-over duct on top (with the airbox inlet taped off).

I believe they are out of production, but very very common.

 

I was able to make all the stock piping fit with clearance. Not as much as stock for obvious reasons, but at least a 1/2". Stock clearance is an inch.

 

not to thread jack I just got ahold of a similar stock mount unit, not sure what brand it is either




I had a hell of a timing getting the stock hoses to fit on this, it seems this piping is just ever so slightly larger,and with the bead welded around it makes it almost impossible to get on all the way

but was able to get the ducting to bolt up , but it was very tight fit... I probably should of trimed the duct back maybe half an inch all around or something

 

Rotary Performance - New Intercooler for your 1993-1995 Mazda RX-7

^Appears you have this IC based on the similarity to your foto.

 

Absolutely love this thread. Before buying my FD I was constantly looking for dyno charts of "BPU" and found nothing conclusive. I did read about how each part added a certain amount of power but almost none had any dyno charts to prove this. I think after looking at the dyno numbers on this build I have to say this is exactly the power numbers I wanted for my FD.

 

Thanks for posting the test results. That's a lot of work to do and I'm sure everyone really appreciates it.
Is this the "end game" for this car or are there further plans? Injectors and a test pipe in the future?

 

Customer picked the car up last Friday, he is going to learn the car before more upgrades. Next month we will be installing our diff brace, Crossmember and short shifter. No more HP adders until he decides it is time for us to pull the engine for porting and rebuild. When we put on our midpipe the wastegate will be ported. There will be no more incremental basic performance upgrades for this car.

 

I love this thread.

I can't wait for the midpipe dyno!

 

No need in a rewire for the fuel pump either?

 

BR replaced the stock air filter with the Apexi unit.

But leaving the original air crossover from the stock IC inlet to the filter has two affects.
It might allow a little cool air to mix in with the hot air form the radiator, but it really reduces the stock IC's ability to cool. And we know that it is terrible.

Best in this case to remove the heavy crappy cross over plastic, and close the opening to the top of the IC inlet. Thus get as much air through the stock IC as possible.

 

It weighs virtually nothing, so "heavy" is not the correct description. We block the hole on the IC duct, there is no air being mixed, I put the piece back in for esthetics. It is not causing any harm and looks better then the factory IC duct

 

Banzai,

Awesome thread! As a test engineer, you can only imagine my appreciation for your data.


It's really more about maintaining a stock boost level more than anything

 

Very cool. Thanks for dispelling all the myths.

 

Is there any updates? Midpipe?

Thanks!

 

Bump for updates and because great thread. I'm considering going the same route with my 30K-mile FD which is almost stock.

 

There are no new mods on this car, our customer has simply been driving and enjoying it.

 

Simply posting up to say THANK You, this thread is super helpful

 

 

Awesome thread. Very helpful and informative. Thanks for the work and time putting into it!

 

Interesting to see this boost curve on the car given its mods, dispelling the generally accepted 10-8-10 pattern for a bone stock car (good thread here). Is this well in line with expectation and consistent with what you've seen from other bolt-on, factory ECU, properly running cars?

My car with only a downpipe and cat-back in perfect running order also fades to ~8 PSI by redline in 3rd or 4th gear. It used to bother me. It still does...but it used to, too.

 

Each car is a little different, no solid reason that I know of why some cars to 10-8-10 to redline and others are 10-8-10-8.

Dale

 

Great thread! Similar spec I'm slowly building my car to, I currently have the thicker style ARC SMIC, thought about a V mount but don't want move the battery or lose the AC. I really like the look of the early pettit racing cool charge 2, looks similar to the SP intercooler.