floatyghosthat

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys,

so, winter is upon us, my baby is snug asleep in the garage, and it's time to start planning for next year. I just got the car this spring, and it's lightly modded, but I've got big plans for her.

If there's anything I've learned over my years of building cars, it's that planning ahead saves A LOT of time, money and especially headaches. Although I'm not completely versed in the ways of the spinning triangle yet, I'm working on it. I've worked out a basic build plan for the car, and I was hoping I could get some input and advice from you guys.

Here's the deal; I've had a blast with my FD at some autoX events, and through some windy mountain roads and even some parking lots. I've got 260WHP now, and I like the pull and managability of the car. Traction isn't really an issue, I've got some sticky tires, sway bars and HKS coil-overs.

The problem is, I'd love to have a nice, managable, mid-power AutoX/track car (300-350WHP?), but at the same time, for every chance I have to take her to the track, I get 10 runs at the drags, and 20 guys wanting to prove how slow a rotary is. In those situations, I'd love to have a nice high-power beast. (400-450WHP?)

Here's the solution I came up with. Please let me know if anything sounds absurd.

It's got the stock twins now. Definitely tossing those for power and reliability. The stock I/C is getting replaced by both a V-mount and meth kit. My plan is to run a single turbo on low boost using just the I/C, hopefully putting out around my target mark of 300WHP for the track and street. Then, using a multi-stage electronic boost controller, I'd like to be able to switch it to higher boost, and engage the meth, hopefully somehow giving me another 100HP or so for the drags and straight line stuff.

Advantage; This way I get the best of both worlds, plus I'm not draining my meth during daily driving. Easier drivability for the daily stuff, and low stress on the engine.

Disadvantage; Obviously this will end up being a bit more costly than building to one or the other. I don't know if I'll be able to make up that much more power just with meth and higher boost. Seems like that's asking for a lot. The biggest issue is obviously going to be finding the appropriate turbo that can spool quick enough on low boost, but still not be topped out on the higher settings.

I'm sure with the plethora of set-ups that people are running, SOMEONE has done or attempted this sort of thing. If anyone has any input, or suggestions for the turbo or any aspect of the set-up, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

-Devan

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

For your goals I would go with a 35R turbo. Also I would go for fmic over vmic any day, after the testing I've seen comparing the two first hand .

Double_J

iTrader: (28)

Welcome....

I am new here too but I think what you are asking for is possible. Many people make 450-500whp with the right setup. Many boost controllers have dual settings for low and high boost ( greddy profec b 2 ).

Just as an example your car makes 500hp at 24psi with AI and the AI kit is set to come on at 18psi. You have your controller low boost at 17psi and that is around the 350hp mark.

That part doesn't sound hard at all. It's just finding the right turbo combination like you said. One that will still spool up quickly enough to get you low - mid power so you can enjoy it.

p.s. as I said I am new no flaming on me =)

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Winter huuuuu well i guess mid 50's i cold for us

The setup is possible you'd also need a good ECU to switch between fuel maps.

floatyghosthat

iTrader: (5)

sorry, forgot to mention, I've already got Power FC, so ECU/tuning isn't much of an issue.

Also, I'm obviously going to have the proper supporting mods. TBE, fueling, port, etc.

tt7hvn

iTrader: (5)

i agree, a 35R would be perfect, minimal lag and more hp than you're looking for. however, i would go v-mount over fmic, there is no heat soak associated with v-mount as there is with an fmic and you're all concerned about intake temps considering you want to run meth for high boost

so why not just go v-mount

i'd llike to hear what testing you've done b/t a v-mount and fmic

Maximum

iTrader: (5)

I don't understand why you need a "multi-stage" boost controller. Almost all the electronic boost controllers have two boost settings, just use one of them. Your meth system could be as simple as a pressure switch that engages it at boost levels above your lower boost setting. I don't think you're proposing anything too crazy, a lot of people do that.

floatyghosthat

iTrader: (5)

That's pretty much what I had meant. I figured most EBC would handle what I'm looking for. I've always used manual ones before, so I haven't really had a chance to play with an electronic one yet.

Can I get that much of a power increase just by cranking the boost? I mean, 100hp is over a 10psi difference. I know that's fine for the engine, but how would I need to adjust my fueling and tuning in order to compensate? Can the PFC be tuned to handle the different stages, or can I just have it set to adjust automatically?

ttmott

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget to plan for the following:

• Fuel system requires upgrading (injectors, fuel pump, regulator, etc)
• If manual trans. clutch will need to be upgraded.
• Cooling system upgrades may be required to deal with the additional heat.
• Rear suspension bushings need to be tight
• Wide Band O2 measurement required.
• Stock ignition energy may be lacking (there is a lot of discussion on this one)

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Like mentioned above the Greddy Profec B2 (and almost all other EBC's) has a lo and hi boost setting. Just push a single button.. And they are relatively easy to set up.

Yes, you can get a lot more power by only upping boost by 10psi. The rotary takes boost well and does not require 30+ psi of boost to make big power. With the PFC you will need to purchase a datalogit. This is the laptop and tuning connection you will need to efficiently tune the car yourself (or your tuner) and it will allow you to save many maps on your computer and load the appropriate map before what you are planning on doing. AutoX map, or drag map in your case.

Although this should really be just like every other basic single turbo build done I will bring up a few points to consider.

1) a 450whp fd handles/drives very different from most other cars at the same power level. Most of these FD's have NO issues running with vettes, supras, vipers, porches, etc with much more power than 450whp. It is really something to try and hold onto. You will need quality larger (265, 275) rear tires to help try and hold on.

2) Unfortuneately a single is very hard to get to spool up as fast and nice as the twins. The 35R spools very fast but still slower than the twins and power from a single comes on a bit more abruptly as compared to the smoothness of the stock twins. If the AutoX events you are doing have tight, turns and small straightaways, then a single turbo is really going to slow you down. Though it does sound like your events are a bit more "time-attack"ish with longer straights (refering to the mountain road coarses).

Going single turbo is a great choice for many including myself. To give you another option to the 35R I run a 500R from Aspec and see 1Bar boost at 3600 and put just a little over 400whp with stock engine ports. 500whp is within easy reach with just 7 more psi. The 35R will spool a bit sooner but has a lower power/boost ceiling. Do a search on here to learn about both turbos.

Good luck, I am looking forward to seeing pics as your build goes along. Not to mention some video of those beautiful mountain races!!!

Maximum

iTrader: (5)

^^ Good advice

I'll add that although in some cases multiple maps are required, you can most likely use one map for your setup. You will be creating a fuel injection/ignition timing table on speed/load axes. At your higher boost setting, the higher levels of load will be accessed, so there's no need for a completely different map. You would only need a different map if you want to have a no-meth injection map and a full-time meth injection map.