dual oil coolers cheap
#127
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there a different between the ports?
Are the two ports on the stock cooler designated as inflow and outflow ports? If so, the diagram Wan made on post 80 is incorrect if you want to use the driver side cooler. Should be 1 to 4 and 3 to front cover. See fig 2 on the attached diagram.
Let me know this is true or not.
Let me know this is true or not.
#128
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
I don't think it matters though because the thermostat on the passenger side cooler won't let oil to the driver side cooler till the oil is up to temp. I have mine set up as Fig. 1. The passenger cooler gets hot before the driver side cooler.
Are the two ports on the stock cooler designated as inflow and outflow ports? If so, the diagram Wan made on post 80 is incorrect if you want to use the driver side cooler. Should be 1 to 4 and 3 to front cover. See fig 2 on the attached diagram.
Let me know this is true or not.
Let me know this is true or not.
#132
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am over thinking it.
I am such a fool.
Thanks
#133
Back to the DrawingBoard.
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Va
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pretty sure the FD's coolers are of aluminum construction. These guys say NOT to use aluminum fittings, as they're subject to galling/thread damage:
http://www.oilcoolers.com/article_oil_cooler_woes.asp
See the section "Damaged Thread Issues/Very Important" on page one of their oil cooler woes article.
http://www.oilcoolers.com/article_oil_cooler_woes.asp
See the section "Damaged Thread Issues/Very Important" on page one of their oil cooler woes article.
#134
Post quality not quantity
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Regarding metric to AN adapters...
If you are a resourceful person with a welder and want to retain steel fittings at the cooler and have a parts stash of various fittings, you can do what I did:
* Buy two steel weld on fittings of your choice (male AN-8 from Summit Racing, $5 each or some steel AN-8/10 to NPT fitting and cut off the NPT part, I tend to keep a couple of these on hand for my various DIY projects)
* Use a band saw or hack saw and cut in the notches where the clips go for the stock fittings (or weld the weld fitting directly to the stock fitting and weld the clip notches)
* Weld fitting to stock fitting
Notes for this approach:
1) There is a rubber O-ring inside the stock fitting that you need to remove to facilitate #2
2) You need to thoroughly clean the fitting so there is no oil residue (observe appropriate precautions for the cleaning product being used, i.e. brake cleaner = dangerous if any liquid remains -> potential phosgene gas formation, which is really bad. I have to keep reminding myself about this since I use brake cleaner for cleaning so many things.)
Alternately, 22x1.5mm seems to be a popular size for BMW oil drain plugs that one could use if you did not have the stock fittings. I think they may be aluminum, though.
The $7.50 deal from anplumbing seems to be pretty reasonable given the time it took me to make up mine if you have to buy parts.
FWIW, the extra cooler I acquired is now the single/primary oil cooler for my turbo Miata project car since it is overkill in size for that car, already has t-stat and I already bought a pair of Long coolers for the FD. Upgrading stock FD parts = "free" upgrades for my Miata project, one system at a time.
Regards,
--Ashraf
If you are a resourceful person with a welder and want to retain steel fittings at the cooler and have a parts stash of various fittings, you can do what I did:
* Buy two steel weld on fittings of your choice (male AN-8 from Summit Racing, $5 each or some steel AN-8/10 to NPT fitting and cut off the NPT part, I tend to keep a couple of these on hand for my various DIY projects)
* Use a band saw or hack saw and cut in the notches where the clips go for the stock fittings (or weld the weld fitting directly to the stock fitting and weld the clip notches)
* Weld fitting to stock fitting
Notes for this approach:
1) There is a rubber O-ring inside the stock fitting that you need to remove to facilitate #2
2) You need to thoroughly clean the fitting so there is no oil residue (observe appropriate precautions for the cleaning product being used, i.e. brake cleaner = dangerous if any liquid remains -> potential phosgene gas formation, which is really bad. I have to keep reminding myself about this since I use brake cleaner for cleaning so many things.)
Alternately, 22x1.5mm seems to be a popular size for BMW oil drain plugs that one could use if you did not have the stock fittings. I think they may be aluminum, though.
The $7.50 deal from anplumbing seems to be pretty reasonable given the time it took me to make up mine if you have to buy parts.
FWIW, the extra cooler I acquired is now the single/primary oil cooler for my turbo Miata project car since it is overkill in size for that car, already has t-stat and I already bought a pair of Long coolers for the FD. Upgrading stock FD parts = "free" upgrades for my Miata project, one system at a time.
Regards,
--Ashraf
#136
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Pluto
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also the plate which closes off the by-pass port is spring loaded.If there is any blockage in the oil cooler oil will be forced through the by pass port and continue to the engine.If you mix the inlet and outlet lines,and your oil cooler becomes blocked,your motor will be starved of oil.
#137
Does anyone know if you can use another 18mmx1.5 for the line to the oil filter, all these kits leave that line stock, and I figured I'd replace the entire loop. Any thoughts or info would be appreciated. Thanks.
#142
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
The question was asked if it would lead to oil starvation using a banjo bolt...
The answer, NO... there are banjo bolts there stock..... Hell, I'm going to re-use the bolt & purchase the fitting. I will add that Mazdatrix's dual oil cooler setup uses -10 lines, so it should be fine as far as size goes.
http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm
Ordering all fittings soon. I will post a complete parts list for replacing all factory lines & keeping the A/C.
#147
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Mazda Motorsports sells the R1 passenger side air scoop for about $15 bucks. Part # is in the stock parts catalog. It needed a little work to attach it to a driver side cooler mounted on the passenger side. Overall looks great and it mated up real nice to the front bumper air inlet.
.
I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler.
.
Question: I bought the SETRAB aluminum 22mmx1.5mm adapters with o-ring from www.anplumbing.com. It appears they will seal ok on the oil cooler inlets without using the stock rubberized washer. Anyone have the same setup? Do you use the adapter o-ring or stock rubber washer or both? All other new hoses/fittings are Earls Perform-O-Flex and Swivel seal filttings.
Thanks;
Greg
.
I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler.
.
Question: I bought the SETRAB aluminum 22mmx1.5mm adapters with o-ring from www.anplumbing.com. It appears they will seal ok on the oil cooler inlets without using the stock rubberized washer. Anyone have the same setup? Do you use the adapter o-ring or stock rubber washer or both? All other new hoses/fittings are Earls Perform-O-Flex and Swivel seal filttings.
Thanks;
Greg
#148
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone find the m18 to -8an or -10an banjo fitting? I am in the process of adding another oil cooler and have not been able find this banjo fitting. this one is the only one that i have found that may work.
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p2...duct_info.html
I know this is an adapter to JIC instead of -AN, and wanted to know if anyone has tried interchanging them, or if anyone has found a cheaper alternative than buying a $60 banjo fitting... I am trying to keep my a/c.
rx7_8u
"I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler."
how are you planning on using your stock line? using a 22mmx1.5 female to female coupler with a 22mmx1.5 to -an adapter? Or have you found a 22mmx1.5 female to male -an adapter?
Anyone have any input? I am trying not to order a m18 to -6an banjo fitting and use a -6an to -8an adapter.
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p2...duct_info.html
I know this is an adapter to JIC instead of -AN, and wanted to know if anyone has tried interchanging them, or if anyone has found a cheaper alternative than buying a $60 banjo fitting... I am trying to keep my a/c.
rx7_8u
"I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler."
how are you planning on using your stock line? using a 22mmx1.5 female to female coupler with a 22mmx1.5 to -an adapter? Or have you found a 22mmx1.5 female to male -an adapter?
Anyone have any input? I am trying not to order a m18 to -6an banjo fitting and use a -6an to -8an adapter.
#149
Im a tall midget.
iTrader: (28)
Just a little update on my dual cooler setup. I ditched the factory drivers side oil cooler that I installed on the passenger side for a bigger 25 row Setrab unit. I should have taken side by side pictures to show the difference in size but I was in a hurry to finish this for a track day the next day. I still need to make a shroud for it but oil temps were great without it out on the track. I positioned the oil cooler very close to the opening on the bumper to try and use most of the air that was coming in. It's not the ideal setup but it works great for the time being.
This new cooler is hooked up just like the stock one was plumbed in my original diagram. I made new hoses because the fittings on the Setrab are on the top rather than on the bottom like the Mazda one. There's been some talk about push-on fittings and hoses failing right away but mine have been working great without leaks. My setup has worked great with multiple track days on it.
Staying on track with the budget theme of the original setup, I bought my Setrab oil cooler used from a Nascar car. The push-on hose came from Jeggs and the new fittings for the oil cooler came from BAT Inc (about $70-$80 bucks worth of fittings ). I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum stock I had laying around. I'm not a fan of drilling new holes on the car so I always use existing holes for whatever it is I'm installing. It takes a little longer to fab things up this way but its worth it in the end.
I'll try to get more pictures of my setup when I take my car apart again to make a shroud.
This new cooler is hooked up just like the stock one was plumbed in my original diagram. I made new hoses because the fittings on the Setrab are on the top rather than on the bottom like the Mazda one. There's been some talk about push-on fittings and hoses failing right away but mine have been working great without leaks. My setup has worked great with multiple track days on it.
Staying on track with the budget theme of the original setup, I bought my Setrab oil cooler used from a Nascar car. The push-on hose came from Jeggs and the new fittings for the oil cooler came from BAT Inc (about $70-$80 bucks worth of fittings ). I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum stock I had laying around. I'm not a fan of drilling new holes on the car so I always use existing holes for whatever it is I'm installing. It takes a little longer to fab things up this way but its worth it in the end.
I'll try to get more pictures of my setup when I take my car apart again to make a shroud.
#150
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (52)
As promised. This will completely replace all OEM lines with SS line & AN fittings using the OEM oil coolers. No fitment issues with A/C. Be sure to cover the SS lines with plastic loom at possible rub points.
http://www.batinc.net/
OIL COOLER FITTINGS………………………………………..........................P ART#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10......12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10..............6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10.............18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10.................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.........9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10.............37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M..........30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... .11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................80--- 1.60
$282.70
http://www.batinc.net/
OIL COOLER FITTINGS………………………………………..........................P ART#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10......12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10..............6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10.............18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10.................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.........9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10.............37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M..........30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... .11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................80--- 1.60
$282.70