dual oil coolers cheap
01-12-11, 02:01 PM
#151
As promised. This will completely replace all OEM lines with SS line & AN fittings using the OEM oil coolers. No fitment issues with A/C. Be sure to cover the SS lines with plastic loom at possible rub points.
http://www.batinc.net/
OIL COOLER FITTINGS ..........................P ART#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10......12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10..............6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10.............18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10.................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.........9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10.............37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M..........30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... .11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................80--- 1.60
$282.70
http://www.batinc.net/
OIL COOLER FITTINGS ..........................P ART#............PRICE
4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10......12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10..............6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10.............18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10.................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.........9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10.............37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M..........30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... .11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................80--- 1.60
$282.70
Is this the list for a dual cooler set up or single stock oil cooler only? I am looking forward in getting a set of the setrab oil coolers and will these fitting work?
-AzEKnightz
07-30-11, 11:41 PM
#154
While on the track, I'm having trouble keeping water-temps below 245-F with stock turbos set a 13-lbs of boost, and 4x850cc injectors, in 100-F and 90% humidity weather. Oil temp is running about 225-F.
While I have dual R1 oil-coolers, I'm thinking I should upgrade at least ONE oil cooler to a 25 or 36 row.
Is this possible to do using as much of the stock oil-hoses as possible with adapters and such ?
Which side oil-cooler (drivers or passenger) would you change out ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
While I have dual R1 oil-coolers, I'm thinking I should upgrade at least ONE oil cooler to a 25 or 36 row.
Is this possible to do using as much of the stock oil-hoses as possible with adapters and such ?
Which side oil-cooler (drivers or passenger) would you change out ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
08-01-11, 01:07 AM
#155
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^
I'd like to know too because I was thinking the same thing Neil, but also at the same time I noticed that my ducting is only the size of the stock 19 row oil coolers, or not even as big. So a bigger oil cooler might not get enough air, maybe one that is deeper or thicker would be better?
I looked on Summit Racing and most of the oil coolers are 2" thick like stock, they just increase the height and width when you get more rows. Could you just stack two OEM oil coolers back to back? Somehow I know it doesn't work like that, but it's worth asking.
I'd like to know too because I was thinking the same thing Neil, but also at the same time I noticed that my ducting is only the size of the stock 19 row oil coolers, or not even as big. So a bigger oil cooler might not get enough air, maybe one that is deeper or thicker would be better?
I looked on Summit Racing and most of the oil coolers are 2" thick like stock, they just increase the height and width when you get more rows. Could you just stack two OEM oil coolers back to back? Somehow I know it doesn't work like that, but it's worth asking.
08-01-11, 02:09 PM
#156
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^
I'd like to know too because I was thinking the same thing Neil, but also at the same time I noticed that my ducting is only the size of the stock 19 row oil coolers, or not even as big. So a bigger oil cooler might not get enough air, maybe one that is deeper or thicker would be better?
I looked on Summit Racing and most of the oil coolers are 2" thick like stock, they just increase the height and width when you get more rows. Could you just stack two OEM oil coolers back to back? Somehow I know it doesn't work like that, but it's worth asking.
I'd like to know too because I was thinking the same thing Neil, but also at the same time I noticed that my ducting is only the size of the stock 19 row oil coolers, or not even as big. So a bigger oil cooler might not get enough air, maybe one that is deeper or thicker would be better?
I looked on Summit Racing and most of the oil coolers are 2" thick like stock, they just increase the height and width when you get more rows. Could you just stack two OEM oil coolers back to back? Somehow I know it doesn't work like that, but it's worth asking.
08-02-11, 06:34 AM
#158
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While on the track, I'm having trouble keeping water-temps below 245-F with stock turbos set a 13-lbs of boost, and 4x850cc injectors, in 100-F and 90% humidity weather. Oil temp is running about 225-F.
While I have dual R1 oil-coolers, I'm thinking I should upgrade at least ONE oil cooler to a 25 or 36 row.
Is this possible to do using as much of the stock oil-hoses as possible with adapters and such ?
Which side oil-cooler (drivers or passenger) would you change out ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
While I have dual R1 oil-coolers, I'm thinking I should upgrade at least ONE oil cooler to a 25 or 36 row.
Is this possible to do using as much of the stock oil-hoses as possible with adapters and such ?
Which side oil-cooler (drivers or passenger) would you change out ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
To do it as cheap as possible, you would replace the passenger side cooler with the cooler of your choice. You would want to keep the driver side in place so its thermostat can regulate the temps.
Replace the banjo fitting on the bottom of block with -10 banjo fitting. Purchase -10 line and run it to the passenger side and connect to oil cooler. Remove the factory r1 hardlines. Run a -10 line from passenger cooler to driverside cooler. Purchase -10 fitting to replace the passenger-side fitting on the drivers side cooler.
08-02-11, 06:15 PM
#159
'
To do it as cheap as possible, you would replace the passenger side cooler with the cooler of your choice. You would want to keep the driver side in place so its thermostat can regulate the temps.
Replace the banjo fitting on the bottom of block with -10 banjo fitting. Purchase -10 line and run it to the passenger side and connect to oil cooler. Remove the factory r1 hardlines. Run a -10 line from passenger cooler to driverside cooler. Purchase -10 fitting to replace the passenger-side fitting on the drivers side cooler.
To do it as cheap as possible, you would replace the passenger side cooler with the cooler of your choice. You would want to keep the driver side in place so its thermostat can regulate the temps.
Replace the banjo fitting on the bottom of block with -10 banjo fitting. Purchase -10 line and run it to the passenger side and connect to oil cooler. Remove the factory r1 hardlines. Run a -10 line from passenger cooler to driverside cooler. Purchase -10 fitting to replace the passenger-side fitting on the drivers side cooler.
BTW: during the cool months here in North Florida, I have to block-off the passenger side oil-cooler, otherwise the oil doesn't even get up to operating temperature!
:-) neil
08-02-11, 06:26 PM
#160
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I don't think there is an adapter that is made that will connect to the hardlines to AN-10 fittings...Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You'll want to keep your driver side cooler since it is the last stop before going back to the engine and it has a thermostat built it. You'll need 1 of the (Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10) fittings and crush washer for the DS cooler.
08-02-11, 07:20 PM
#161
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I was hoping to use the factory R1 hardline with an adapter, but I think I can leave it in place and run the two new lines . . . The driver's side cooler would need the adapter, correct ?
BTW: during the cool months here in North Florida, I have to block-off the passenger side oil-cooler, otherwise the oil doesn't even get up to operating temperature!
:-) neil
BTW: during the cool months here in North Florida, I have to block-off the passenger side oil-cooler, otherwise the oil doesn't even get up to operating temperature!
:-) neil
08-02-11, 08:34 PM
#162
I don't think there is an adapter that is made that will connect to the hardlines to AN-10 fittings...Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You'll want to keep your driver side cooler since it is the last stop before going back to the engine and it has a thermostat built it. You'll need 1 of the (Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10) fittings and crush washer for the DS cooler.
:-) neil
08-02-11, 11:00 PM
#163
Just a little update on my dual cooler setup. I ditched the factory drivers side oil cooler that I installed on the passenger side for a bigger 25 row Setrab unit. I should have taken side by side pictures to show the difference in size but I was in a hurry to finish this for a track day the next day. I still need to make a shroud for it but oil temps were great without it out on the track. I positioned the oil cooler very close to the opening on the bumper to try and use most of the air that was coming in. It's not the ideal setup but it works great for the time being.
This new cooler is hooked up just like the stock one was plumbed in my original diagram. I made new hoses because the fittings on the Setrab are on the top rather than on the bottom like the Mazda one. There's been some talk about push-on fittings and hoses failing right away but mine have been working great without leaks. My setup has worked great with multiple track days on it.
Staying on track with the budget theme of the original setup, I bought my Setrab oil cooler used from a Nascar car. The push-on hose came from Jeggs and the new fittings for the oil cooler came from BAT Inc (about $70-$80 bucks worth of fittings
). I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum stock I had laying around. I'm not a fan of drilling new holes on the car so I always use existing holes for whatever it is I'm installing. It takes a little longer to fab things up this way but its worth it in the end.
I'll try to get more pictures of my setup when I take my car apart again to make a shroud.
This new cooler is hooked up just like the stock one was plumbed in my original diagram. I made new hoses because the fittings on the Setrab are on the top rather than on the bottom like the Mazda one. There's been some talk about push-on fittings and hoses failing right away but mine have been working great without leaks. My setup has worked great with multiple track days on it.
Staying on track with the budget theme of the original setup, I bought my Setrab oil cooler used from a Nascar car. The push-on hose came from Jeggs and the new fittings for the oil cooler came from BAT Inc (about $70-$80 bucks worth of fittings
). I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum stock I had laying around. I'm not a fan of drilling new holes on the car so I always use existing holes for whatever it is I'm installing. It takes a little longer to fab things up this way but its worth it in the end. I'll try to get more pictures of my setup when I take my car apart again to make a shroud.
What angle fitting did you use on top of the Setrab 25-row coolers ?
Regarding the fitting from the Setrab to the front cover, did you use the M18 banjo to -10 AN fitting ?
How did you connect the Setrab to the factory driver's side cooler ? Was it a M18-to -10 AN fitting ? What angle ? How did you route, and did you REMOVE the factory hard-lines ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
08-03-11, 11:40 PM
#165
Any reason not to use a M22-female-to-AN10 adapter after the passenger-side oil-cooler quick-connects to a Setrab 25-row unit with the Setrab M22-t0-AN10 adapter with appropriate angle AN10 connectors ?
This was I can keep the factory hard-lines routing as well as the factory banjo connection, and not deal with the hassle of getting the old stuff out.
:-) neil
This was I can keep the factory hard-lines routing as well as the factory banjo connection, and not deal with the hassle of getting the old stuff out.
:-) neil
01-10-12, 04:56 AM
#166
a little bump. i have r1 oil coolers but the hardlines dont work with my VMIC so i am essentially doing the same thing except with a pass side core. after all said and done i just spent $144.10 shipped for the fittings/hoses. i got majority of the stuff from summit and im using their push connectors along with non stainless hose. (i hate ss hose it always seems to cut me.....)
so it can be done even cheaper!
so it can be done even cheaper!
01-11-12, 08:22 AM
#167
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What defines if you have 1 or 2 oilcoolers? I have JDM automatic -93 and it already have 2 coolers stock + oils run through watercooler? When I checked from maual it shows that I only suppose to have 1 cooler+ the watercooler.
01-11-12, 09:21 AM
#168
Being a non-R1, it only has one oil cooler. Look at the front bumper of the car. You will see 3 holes in the bumper. The two small holes on the bottom corner of each side is the intake for the oil coolers. Simply look in and see that you have a small black cooler there.
As an automatic, the transmission fluid will run into a small segragated section of your radiator for cooling. This of course has nothing to do with the engine oil cooling system.
01-11-12, 09:43 AM
#169
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Your statement/quetion is pretty confusing......
Being a non-R1, it only has one oil cooler. Look at the front bumper of the car. You will see 3 holes in the bumper. The two small holes on the bottom corner of each side is the intake for the oil coolers. Simply look in and see that you have a small black cooler there.
As an automatic, the transmission fluid will run into a small segragated section of your radiator for cooling. This of course has nothing to do with the engine oil cooling system.
Being a non-R1, it only has one oil cooler. Look at the front bumper of the car. You will see 3 holes in the bumper. The two small holes on the bottom corner of each side is the intake for the oil coolers. Simply look in and see that you have a small black cooler there.
As an automatic, the transmission fluid will run into a small segragated section of your radiator for cooling. This of course has nothing to do with the engine oil cooling system.
If I want to replace my radiator with a manual type, will my ATF temp rise too much if it wont run through the radiator anymore? Will the 2 aircooled coolers be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? Im not planning to go on track with this. Only have slight mods in it.
01-11-12, 10:44 AM
#170
And I was reffering to ATF not engineoil If I want to replace my radiator with a manual type, will my ATF temp rise too much if it wont run through the radiator anymore? Will the 2 aircooled coolers be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? Im not planning to go on track with this. Only have slight mods in it.
If I want to replace my radiator with a manual type, will my ATF temp rise too much if it wont run through the radiator anymore? Will the 2 aircooled coolers be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? Im not planning to go on track with this. Only have slight mods in it.OK, The ATF runs through the radiator. Yes, this is correct. If you replace the radiator with an aftermarket, say a Koyo or a Fluidyne, then I would fabricate a small ATF cooler. It would be relatively easy to find an aftermarket ATF cooler and mount it up using the lines running from the transmission to the radiator. Even though you aren't tracking the car, the fluid still needs cooling. You could go without, but it could also reduce transmission life. The best thing would be to try to find an aftermarket aluminum radiator for the automatic cars...... Or of course, convert the car to a manual.
Now when you said "Will the 2 aircooled coolers be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much?"..... The two air coolers are for the engine oil, not ATF. This is the part that confused me. If you are referring to the OEM dual coolers being adequate for engine oil cooling, then Yes, they are perfect for a street car.
01-11-12, 11:07 AM
#171
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Now when you said "Will the 2 aircooled coolers be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much?"..... The two air coolers are for the engine oil, not ATF. This is the part that confused me. If you are referring to the OEM dual coolers being adequate for engine oil cooling, then Yes, they are perfect for a street car.
But as I have the auto tranny, both or at least the driver side cooler is for ATF. So the ATF goes from tranny->Radiator->cooler behind the bumber and back to tranny. So if I bypass the radiator and use only the one behind the bumber will it be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? I wouldnt want to buy an extra cooler if I can manage only with one cooler. I found an radiator for auto, but it costs 600$+shipping to finland, so it would be little too costy for me. Compared to an manual aftermarket radiator that costs 100$ delivered to my door.Hope I nailed it this time
Thanks for trying to keep up with me.
Last edited by Wortex; 01-11-12 at 11:19 AM.
01-11-12, 03:32 PM
#172
Sorry for confusing you again But as I have the auto tranny, both or at least the driver side cooler is for ATF. So the ATF goes from tranny->Radiator->cooler behind the bumber and back to tranny. So if I bypass the radiator and use only the one behind the bumber will it be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? I wouldnt want to buy an extra cooler if I can manage only with one cooler. I found an radiator for auto, but it costs 600$+shipping to finland, so it would be little too costy for me. Compared to an manual aftermarket radiator that costs 100$ delivered to my door.
Hope I nailed it this time Thanks for trying to keep up with me.
But as I have the auto tranny, both or at least the driver side cooler is for ATF. So the ATF goes from tranny->Radiator->cooler behind the bumber and back to tranny. So if I bypass the radiator and use only the one behind the bumber will it be enough for the ATF not to warm up too much? I wouldnt want to buy an extra cooler if I can manage only with one cooler. I found an radiator for auto, but it costs 600$+shipping to finland, so it would be little too costy for me. Compared to an manual aftermarket radiator that costs 100$ delivered to my door.Hope I nailed it this time
Thanks for trying to keep up with me.I personally think either of the one coolers would be fine. Whether you choose the radiator or the passenger mount is up to you.
02-08-12, 04:25 PM
#175
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hmmm wouldn't you want to replace the passenger oil cooler with the 25 or 36 row? If I understand correctly, the oil reaches the passenger oil cooler first in the dual setup. Wouldn't the oil cooling operation be more efficient if the oil flows through the bigger cooler first (or does it not make a tangible difference)?