Batmobile

WHATS UP TO ALL OF THE LOYAL FD3S OWNERS!! I LOVE MY CAR ALMOST AS MUCH AS I LOVE MY MOTHER BUT MY CAR HAS NEVER BEEN HEALTHY LIKE IT SHOULD. TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT, THE TURBOS HAVE NEVER BOOSTED CORRECTLY. I KNOW THE BOOST PATTERN SHOULD BE 10-8-10 BUT I AM ONLY GETTING 10-5 AND THEN IT DROPS TO ZERO AND A WHEEZING NOISE WOULD ARRISE. I'VE READ THAT THE PLATIC-GREEN SOLENOIDS MY BE CLOGGED SO I BOUGHT NEW ONES AND STILL WHEEZING. ANYTHING ELSE SHOULD I LOOK AT? I NEED SOME SERIOUS HELP. THE "INTELLIGENT" MAZDA MECHANICS CAN'T SEEM TO FIX IT RIGHT. PLEASE IF ANY FD3S GURUS OUT THAT CAN HELP I WOULD APPRICIATE IT. THANK YOU!

GsrSol

Try checking your Caps Lock button, I think it's stuck.

First find out where the weezing noise is coming from. Probably something with the y pipe.

Toadman

Sounds like the rubber coupler on the Y-pipe split.

Batmobile

I have silicon on each end of the y-piping so they are virgin tight if you know what I mean. I don't know what elese to look for.......

Bucrx7

Check your Charge relief valve to make sure it's closing after 4500 RPM. Check the vacuum hoses that is going to and from the black vacuum tank that is in front of the alternator. Also check the other vacuum tank next to teh power steering. If everything looks fine that jack up the car and check your Turbo control actuator, the clip on the rod could have fallen off and the arm may be not attached to the door.


Tony S.

wasabi

If you have a stock intercooler check the rubber hose that connects to the bottom of it. Sometimes this hose develops long cracks.

-Mike P.

hapa

If your pimary turbo is boosting to 10lbs fine, then I would assume that your y-pipe, and intercooler hoses are fine. But I would think that maybe one of your solenoids/checkvalves may be bad and that is the cause of your weezing sounds. Look up the vacuum hose diagram and start checking the lines and the solenoids/checkvalves. I'm pretty sure your problem lies here. Let us know when you figure it out. Good luck.

eric

Batmobile

I want to thank everyone for their help. I will try to check every check valves and solenoids. It's going to be a bitch but it will do untill the single turbo comes in. I hate the stock twins, damn Mazda can even get a decent mechanic whom is knowledgable. Thanks ALL!!!

Dragueur

let me KNOW when u figure it out..im havin the SAME problem!!!!

legendr35

i have the same problem also.

but i think it's caused by a bad Y-pipe, so I purchased an Efini Y-pipe, i'll let you guys know how it goes.

(mine doesn't wheez, but it screams, sounds like a single turbo running like 25lbs of boost)

Crashunit

I just got this problem today too =( ... dam rotory god must be punishing us!!!

SpeedracerRX7

How interesting because I just had my motor replaced and my turbos rebuilt but I never gave the shop the chance to tune it, which they are doing this Monday hopefully, and I am having the same problem.(They barely got the engine and turbos in when I had to drive it back to DE for Christmas so it worked out well for breaking in the engine) Both myself and my mechanic are thinking/hoping that it is a solenoid but I am not sure. I am also questioning the instalation of my Y-pipe when I get it back to the shop because it sounds like there is air blowing against my firewall when I am under boost. I will let everybody know what we figure out after I resolve the issure.

Batmobile

The funny thing is that when I reverse the checkvalve(green/black) which is attached with vacuum hose from the Y-piping to the vacuum chamber; the noise goes away but then I don't get any secondary boost. Thats not good! My engine was also replaced and turbos were rebuilt about a year ago and eversince then wheezing has been a factor in my life along with turbo problems. I've scrutinzed the vacuum diagrahm and I believe that all of arrows should be pointing into the intake manifold. So now, I don't know what else.

VTAOE

Hey Batmobile,

I was wondering as to which Check Valve you are talking about exactly? Is it the check valve on the far right, out of the three check valves that are next to each other (going from the vacuum diagrams that is). And which way was the arrow pointing when you had no boost in your second turbo? I'm just asking because I have a 94 Rx-7 with around 38,000 miles on it and I can't seem to get the second turbo to come in. I have checked every valve and every actuator and they all work. I'm kind of at a loss right now. I have a feeling that something stupid (like a check valve turned in the wrong direction) could be the problem. The car is running great other than the fact that the second turbo isn't coming in. If you could let me know about that check valve then I would really appreciate it. You can either reply back to this post and I will check for your response or you can email me at coanders@vt.edu

Thanks,

Cody

Dragueur

i found out what was WRONG!!!!!
it was my BOV!!!! the gasket in my BLITZ bov had a crack in it..a piece BROKE off and i was losin boost from THERE...with the STOCK bov back in....im gettin FULL BOOST!!!!!
does that sound right???

im fixin my gasket today....ill let you guys know if it is or NOT....

P'cola FD

Every check valve except the one going to the pressure chamber on top of the engine should be pointing toward the extension(intake) manifold. The valve going to the pressure chamber should be pointing toward the pressure chamber. If reversing the valve to the pressure chamber stops the wheezing noise then your problem is likely to be the turbo control solenoid or turbo control actuator or you could get lucky and it's just a popped off or crossed hose

Batmobile

I reversed the valve that comes from the y-piping to the vacuum tube that goes to chamber behind the alternator. Damn these twins, it's about time for the single turbo huh? More money, more money. I am pretty much living for my car!

legendr35

well, i fixed part of my problem, i'm actually boosting in 1st now, but only get like 5psi.

the check valve under the vaccum chamber acutally split apart and i didn't even know. so i super glued it together and how it's fine. but i still get the screaming sound, hopefully the efini y-pipe will fix this.

kelrx7r1

im having same problem checking y-pipe today

ArcWelder

Take a look at the large air intake hoses going from the airbox to the turbos. They become soft from heat and age and are prone to collapsing when under boost. It could also explain the wheezing sound. It's a little difficult to see because they'll look fine when the car is sitting, but as soon as there's increased airflow, they collapse. So, restricted airflow, low boost. Give 'em a squeeze, and look for any possible kinks.

Mark

Batmobile

Thanks Arcwelder, I've never thought of that but i'll give it a try!! Oh and Legendr35, make sure you get a new check valve, you know how hot it gets under the hood and the glue will melt. I think its only $26 bucks the piece of crap but you need it.

legendr35

well, Installed the Efini Y-Pipe...It didnt shop the screaming sound, but it did fix part of my boost problems, now I boost more in first, i think 6psi, does anyone know if that is normal?

Batmobile

Damn, sorry to hear that the noise didn't go away. But at least you got some boost eventhough it's only 6psi. The boost pattern as I understand it is 10-8-10, which means that it jumps to 10, then drops to 8, and slow climb back up to 10. I hope thats correct. I hope that helps.

7 eleven

the boost should be like batmoblie said except the second should come on line almost instantly. so 10 dip to 8 at 4500rpm than bam 10 again.

legendr35

yea

it does the 10-8-10 perfect, but not in 1st or 2nd, only 3, 4, 5. 1st gear goes to like 7 now and 2nd goes to 8+...