Driver Door Latch (pic)
#1
93 Touring
Thread Starter
Driver Door Latch (pic)
The FSM says that you can loosen and move horizontally or vertically the striker plate (U hook) on the driver's door. Trying to improve the "closing" issue.
But the plate is held on by some serious torx type screws. Does anyone know what size they are. Much bigger than anything I have - not even sure if I can find them that big anywhere. Right size would help though.
Thanks
But the plate is held on by some serious torx type screws. Does anyone know what size they are. Much bigger than anything I have - not even sure if I can find them that big anywhere. Right size would help though.
Thanks
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You shouldn't have to unbolt/adjust that. Those bolts are typically IMPOSSIBLE to get to move.
If the door isn't closing well, it may be the hinge side that needs adjustment. Or the latch in the door itself is messed up.
What exactly is the closing issue you're trying to fix?
Dale
If the door isn't closing well, it may be the hinge side that needs adjustment. Or the latch in the door itself is messed up.
What exactly is the closing issue you're trying to fix?
Dale
#6
93 Touring
Thread Starter
Dale,
The "hard to close" issue.
If you push it mid-door, it closes fine.
If you have the window down, it closes fine.
Normally, with window up, closing from handle inside or out and it doesn't close completely.
Not the end of the world, but the FSM did say to adjust at that side.
Not sure what/how to do the inside door adjustment, didn't see the details anywhere.
Thanks
The "hard to close" issue.
If you push it mid-door, it closes fine.
If you have the window down, it closes fine.
Normally, with window up, closing from handle inside or out and it doesn't close completely.
Not the end of the world, but the FSM did say to adjust at that side.
Not sure what/how to do the inside door adjustment, didn't see the details anywhere.
Thanks
#7
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It's probably the door latch inside the door, not the door adjustment. If the door is closing true with good gaps all around, adjusting that won't help anything.
I've seen problems with the latch assembly in the door itself, the rubber bumper inside gets hard and makes the door harder to close. Also, FD doors just close hard due to the double weather seals, it's airtight and you're pushing against air pressure.
Dale
I've seen problems with the latch assembly in the door itself, the rubber bumper inside gets hard and makes the door harder to close. Also, FD doors just close hard due to the double weather seals, it's airtight and you're pushing against air pressure.
Dale
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#8
93 Touring
Thread Starter
Is there anything about the "latch inside the door" in any of the manuals? I didn't find
anything in any of them.
Is the hard rubber stop something you can lubricate or is it replaceable?
We have the door tight now, new clips -- foamed-- sound deadened. Now we want it to close normally if possible.
Thanks
anything in any of them.
Is the hard rubber stop something you can lubricate or is it replaceable?
We have the door tight now, new clips -- foamed-- sound deadened. Now we want it to close normally if possible.
Thanks
#9
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It's not really documented, you gotta start taking stuff apart and playing with things .
I can guarantee you though that trying to align the door striker or play with the hinges won't get you anywhere. It's all going to be in the latch.
It's a pain to pull the latch out, you have to pull the door panel, the window, and the rear glass channel. Study how it's designed, do some experiments, figure out why it's messed up.
Dale
I can guarantee you though that trying to align the door striker or play with the hinges won't get you anywhere. It's all going to be in the latch.
It's a pain to pull the latch out, you have to pull the door panel, the window, and the rear glass channel. Study how it's designed, do some experiments, figure out why it's messed up.
Dale