Dreaded ABS light! Please HELP!
#101
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
@Mike93r1 and @Perpetual
https://www.rx7club.com/members/2mchpwr-51388/
I remember this guy going through hell trying to figure out ABS issues. Might want to review some of his posts. He actually bought the factory tool to figure his issues out and resold it. Good luck.
https://www.rx7club.com/members/2mchpwr-51388/
I remember this guy going through hell trying to figure out ABS issues. Might want to review some of his posts. He actually bought the factory tool to figure his issues out and resold it. Good luck.
#102
@Mike93r1 and @Perpetual
https://www.rx7club.com/members/2mchpwr-51388/
I remember this guy going through hell trying to figure out ABS issues. Might want to review some of his posts. He actually bought the factory tool to figure his issues out and resold it. Good luck.
https://www.rx7club.com/members/2mchpwr-51388/
I remember this guy going through hell trying to figure out ABS issues. Might want to review some of his posts. He actually bought the factory tool to figure his issues out and resold it. Good luck.
#104
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
I'm having this issue as well Mike93r1. My 94 has had this light on since purchase. A road test showed the front passenger wheel locks up. The speed sensor on that side tests good, same resistance (ohm) as the driver's front. All fuses are good.
What does your abs tester look like? Can you send a pic? I found one for sale locally but the seller cannot confirm that it works.
What does your abs tester look like? Can you send a pic? I found one for sale locally but the seller cannot confirm that it works.
#105
Next will be testing the relays per the FSM, and the contacts in each connection for corrosion/burnouts.
I'm just trying to do everything possible before throwing $$ at an ABS tester that may not be operational (all sale final situation).
#107
Auto Enthusiast
Just had ABS light come on last week. Right after I changed the oil filter pedestal o-rings.
Light only came on once starting moving about 5+mph.
First thought was an abs speed sensor. I had it on a quickjack so I tried to spin the wheels to trigger the light to possibly isolate but no luck. Probably wasn't enough speed. Went to visual inspect passenger abs sensor connector and sensor. As I'm looking I see rat poop 🤦♂️. Didn't see evidence of chewing or broken wires on that side, sensor & rotor teeth look good. Didn't Chek resistance yet, then moved on to driver side abs connector. And sure enough more rat poop and after moving cruise control actuator out of the way, I see broken/chewed wires. 3 wires, 2 to the abs connector and pink wire that not sure exactly went to but looked like it was part of loom going to fuse block.
I knew that was the culprit. Damn rat. Pulled fender liner out and was able to pull the wiring down threw wheel well. Made all necessary fixes, some soldering in a couple areas, heat shrink, heat shrink wire connectors and bunch of electrical tape.
took it for long drive and no light.
Im guessing I would have had to check continuity or voltage at the abs ecu had it not been visible. It was on that side of the connector/wiring.
Light only came on once starting moving about 5+mph.
First thought was an abs speed sensor. I had it on a quickjack so I tried to spin the wheels to trigger the light to possibly isolate but no luck. Probably wasn't enough speed. Went to visual inspect passenger abs sensor connector and sensor. As I'm looking I see rat poop 🤦♂️. Didn't see evidence of chewing or broken wires on that side, sensor & rotor teeth look good. Didn't Chek resistance yet, then moved on to driver side abs connector. And sure enough more rat poop and after moving cruise control actuator out of the way, I see broken/chewed wires. 3 wires, 2 to the abs connector and pink wire that not sure exactly went to but looked like it was part of loom going to fuse block.
I knew that was the culprit. Damn rat. Pulled fender liner out and was able to pull the wiring down threw wheel well. Made all necessary fixes, some soldering in a couple areas, heat shrink, heat shrink wire connectors and bunch of electrical tape.
took it for long drive and no light.
Im guessing I would have had to check continuity or voltage at the abs ecu had it not been visible. It was on that side of the connector/wiring.
#109
Junior Member
A request to other members reading this thread: would you please provide data points on the ABS Hydraulic Unit's diode?
The steps to check the diode are: (Measurements taken on the Hyd Unit side of the connector)
1. Disconnect Connector O-02 from the ABS Hyd Unit
2. DMM Black lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/Y and DMM Red lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/O = 660 Ohms
3. DMM Black lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/O and DMM Red lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/Y = Infinity (Open)
4. Reconnect Connector O-02 to the ABS Hyd Unit.
Note: Please use the Ohmmeter portion of the DMM. Do not check for continuity.
Thanks in advance!
George
The steps to check the diode are: (Measurements taken on the Hyd Unit side of the connector)
1. Disconnect Connector O-02 from the ABS Hyd Unit
2. DMM Black lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/Y and DMM Red lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/O = 660 Ohms
3. DMM Black lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/O and DMM Red lead to Connector O-02 Pin G/Y = Infinity (Open)
4. Reconnect Connector O-02 to the ABS Hyd Unit.
Note: Please use the Ohmmeter portion of the DMM. Do not check for continuity.
Thanks in advance!
George
Use a multi-meter with diode test ability ideally, it should only show a voltage drop ranging from 0.5 to 0.8 volts (and only if you have the leads hooked up in the correct direction.
If trying to check for resistance of the diode, (again only will show resistance in one direction) its MORE like 6 MEGA OHMS not 660ohms...
resistance of a good diode should range from 1000 Ω to 10 MΩ.
Couldn't help myself but correct this info as I bet people pulling diodes out for no reason..
#110
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
Hey all,
I've discovered I have non-working ABS. Nothing obvious, fuses appear good, nothing in the module LOOKS fried, but I have an aftermarket dash, and thus can't discern ABS light behavior. Is there another way to diagnose?
I haven't checked the rear wiper fuse under the dash, its sort of tough to get at, can anyone confirm whether that being bad simply trips the light, or would cause ABS not to work?
I've discovered I have non-working ABS. Nothing obvious, fuses appear good, nothing in the module LOOKS fried, but I have an aftermarket dash, and thus can't discern ABS light behavior. Is there another way to diagnose?
I haven't checked the rear wiper fuse under the dash, its sort of tough to get at, can anyone confirm whether that being bad simply trips the light, or would cause ABS not to work?
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