supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

well, my manifold had one of the 4 DP studs broken off in it. I tightened the other 3 don as tight as possible without doing damage and added a hi-temp silicone as well. I am still getting a stinky leak...without removing the DP, turbos to replace the manifold, is there a good sealant I can use around the flange of the DP to seal it up?

Trev

amp

iTrader: (50)

dont just patch it up..
do it right and remove the offending stud..

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

No sealant will hold up in that location. Only the stock metal gasket can take those temps. You need to extract the broken stud.

Dave

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

I suppose I will have to drill it out since it is recessed into the manifold. I need to probably just replace the manifold. I know this will be a PITA.

Trev

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

+1 on getting the proper metal gasket.

Lastly, don't OVERTIGHTEN the nuts or the studs, tigthen them to spec. only, as the gasket needs some "room" to thermally expand & contract.

Use a torque wrench, and high-temp anti-seize which will decrease the torque spec. about 15%.

If you decide NOT to replace the manifold and extract the stud (either on the car, or on a bench), you may want to try this:

Purchase some Aero Kroil (Kanolabs.com) and liberally soak the stud for 12-hrs.
Strike the stud with about 2-3 firm blows with a punch, and soak for another 12-hrs.

Purchase an appropriate-sized LEFT-HAND drill-bit, and use a center-punch so the drill doesn't skip. I would start with a smaller left-hand drill-bit to start a pilot-hole.

I believe the stud is made of Inconel which is very hard as well as being very heat resistant.

Regardless, use some cutting-oil to keep the drill-bits from overheating which will keep the bit from loosing it's edge.

Hopefully the left-hand drill-bit will catch-enough and screw-out the stud.

If not, hopefully you will get the stud down to a very thin hollow stud, which can be bent down (or very gently cut with a Dremel carbide-bit into two half-moons) and then extracted.

As a LAST RESORT I would try a stud-extractor. The reason:

In the majority of cases, stud-extractors, especially small stud-extractors BREAK leaving the tip of the extractor in the stud!

This material is SO HARD it is a major PITA if not impossible to remove without either special equipment and/or damage.

If you get this far (a broken stud-extractor), then I would definitely just replace the manifold (still use high-temp anti-seize and torqued to spec).

Heck, knowing that extracting is a major PITA, esp without the part removed and on a bench, you're probably better off just replacing the manifold just like you said.

Best of luck.

:-) neil

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the tip. If I can't retract it, I will have to get the turbo manifold from someone else. Have a great day!