Downpipe installation (new questions)
#1
RE-Amemiya in the blood
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Downpipe installation (new questions)
Ok, I've gone over info again and again about installing the downpipe. I've started the job and have loosened one nut so far on the precat. I noticed I can only effectively reach the one nut from the top without removing the y-pipe. I've seen some posts/sites say you need to remove the y-pipe and I was definitely thinking about this but then when I go to look up how to remove the y-pipe, it says to remove the air pump and then when I go to remove the air pump, it says to remove the A/C components, etc (when will it end?!)...so all of this seems really extreme to reach one nut. I think I can reach both bottom nuts from under the car. What did you guys do for the other top nut?
#2
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you can reach it with everything still on.
I have done it too many times to remember and it is just a little hand yoga! I usually get at it with a deep 14mm socket, Long flex handle rachet(3/8). Sometimes it is necessary for me to add on a little pipe over the rachet handle to use it as a breaker bar.
I find that if I use the actual breaker bar I don't have enough range of motion and can't get the socket back on the nut. If you have a strut bar you may want to remove the bar and the mount on the passenger side.( just so you don't bash you knuckles when the nut comes loose!) Then get under and get the bottom ones off.
And of course you soaked them in penetrating oil/lube already rite?
I have done it too many times to remember and it is just a little hand yoga! I usually get at it with a deep 14mm socket, Long flex handle rachet(3/8). Sometimes it is necessary for me to add on a little pipe over the rachet handle to use it as a breaker bar.
I find that if I use the actual breaker bar I don't have enough range of motion and can't get the socket back on the nut. If you have a strut bar you may want to remove the bar and the mount on the passenger side.( just so you don't bash you knuckles when the nut comes loose!) Then get under and get the bottom ones off.
And of course you soaked them in penetrating oil/lube already rite?
#3
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I'm guessing your talking about the stud closest to the firewall. If you have removed the abs heat shield it can be reached using a three inch socket. It might be easier to install with removing the y-pipe but I installed mine with leaving it on.
#4
I just did it and did not remove the Y pipe. You need to remove the ABS heat shield though (as mentioned above). I soaked each nut in PB Blaster for about 2 hours before I started. They all came out with ease.
Make sure the O2 sensor's electrical connector is unhooked. If you lower the DP without unhooking it, you can break the wire. I replaced my O2 sensor while I had the DP off. It's cheap insurance.
Sonny
Make sure the O2 sensor's electrical connector is unhooked. If you lower the DP without unhooking it, you can break the wire. I replaced my O2 sensor while I had the DP off. It's cheap insurance.
Sonny
#5
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I recommend taking out what you need to make the job simpler. If any of those studs stick, you don't want to dick around with a stud you can't even see.
I pulled: air pump (don't need to remove anything to get that out), Y-pipe (start by removing the rear turbo inlet pipe). That's about it. The rear turbo inlet pipe is the bitch since the pre-cat is one big fat pig in your way. A ratcheting 10mm wrench works well for this.
Don't forget to use anti-seize on the bolts putting them back in.
I pulled: air pump (don't need to remove anything to get that out), Y-pipe (start by removing the rear turbo inlet pipe). That's about it. The rear turbo inlet pipe is the bitch since the pre-cat is one big fat pig in your way. A ratcheting 10mm wrench works well for this.
Don't forget to use anti-seize on the bolts putting them back in.
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#8
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do not remove y pipe! no need. If you take out the air pump (much much much easier to remove and put back on) you can SEE the last nut (top nut closest to firewall) when you look straight through. Also use a 14mm DEEP SOCKET with a flex rachet.
its very easy to take off with what i mentioned!
its very easy to take off with what i mentioned!
#9
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take off the intake and get under the car to loosten the other 2. The hardest is getting the back top screw. Make sure you use WD 40 or something to loosten it up, you dont want to break anything off. Take the heat shields off to for more clearance. I had to bend the metal shielding back by the brake system to get the last screw.
#11
RE-Amemiya in the blood
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hey guys, thanks a lot for the great replies. I'm going to go back at it tomorrow and I'll let you know how it goes. The first one came out pretty easily suprisingly. I got some good lubricant since I can't find pb blaster up here. I got industrial-strength Krown penetrant...seems to work great. I didn't think I needed to remove the ABS shielding for the top ones but it sounds like I might so I'll check into that. Also I'll try to pick-up a flex ratchet with a deep 14mm socket since I don't have one. My wrench seemed like a last resort but a ratchet would be nice. Thanks again - I'll report back soon.
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