hi,
i have done single turbo mod. can i remove the solenoids that are not in use anymore without the ecu go on limp mode?
i do not want to leave all these stuf there.
thanks!!!

 

what ecu are you running? you shouldnt be using the stock one if you went single

 

hi,
thanks for the reply. i am runing the stock ecu.i simple made the mod and did not increase the presure. it is at 10 psi. the car runs ok and i want to remove those unused solenoids.
any advise?
i am thinking to buy a new ecu also but not yet.
thanks!!

 

A single turbo on the stock ECU (even at 10 lbs) is a new engine waiting to happen.

It will run ok for slow speed just driving around with no boost, but if you use the boost, I think it will break your engine eventually.

I would get a PowerFC and take the car to a tuner.

B

 

i limited the max boost to 10psi. still the engine is in danger? the stock setup used the same boost.i can put a pfc but not to find anyone to program it. do you think that it will work ?
if not, where can i find maps for the single turbo and downloaded them on the pfc? is it posible?
thanks!!!

 

You single turbo may be at the same 10psi, but it has a much larger air flow rate than the tiny twins. You need to get an ECU immediately, or you will surely be looking at getting a new motor. What have you done for fuel?

 

Keep running it and I will be sending my first engine to Greece, I have sent several of them other places in Europe J/K

If you for whatever reason keep the stock ecu you can remove the solenoids but you need to install 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors into all the colorful connectors for the rats nest, should be 8 in a row there.

 

yes, the pressure is still the same but 10psi on a single flows a lot more VOLUME of air compared to the stock twins. You are asking for trouble by running the stock ecu.

 

Agreed. airflow is what determins the amount of fuel needed, not air pressure. While the stock computer runs on the rich side... it won't flow enough fuel for most single turbo swaps. You could get a wideband and check the afrs to see if they are safe, but if they aren't you won't be able to do anything about it with the stock ecu. And even if you get a pfc just putting on a map someone else ran doesn't mean it will be right for your car. You really need to have the car tuned by someone that knows what they are doing, or learn how to do it yourself by researching it in depth. Chuck westbrooks notes are a big help. You can pm him about purchasing his pfc tuning notes and the yahoo tuning group.

 

ok guys,
many thanks!!
i will go for a pfc. this time i have another problem :
will the pfc will be ready to work as i receive it?i saw that there is a map already but i assume that this map will be for the stock sequential twin setup. will this work? if its setup is for twin then it will be like the stock ecu.still having trouble?
can i order the pfc with a single turbo mode ?
what can i do?
find a map for pfc? where?

my problem is that at my area there is none to setup the pfc . i must do it myself with your help
is it so dificult?

i have the stock injections and fuel system. is it a problem too?i am not going for 500ps.
i changed the intercooler and now i am fiting an areomotive fuel pressure regulator .
the air pump is removed
egr is removed
double throtle is removed
thats all i have done so far.

David , i see at the workshop manual that when i check the soleniods i must see spesific ohm resistanse for every . not the same for every one. if i install the 300ohm you suggest to all of the will be ok?

thanks again for your suport

 

Chuck westbrooks?
where can i find him?
thanks

 

With stock injectors you are limited to about 330rwhp, we still dont know your turbo so it is hard to guess the amount of boost you could run with a proper tune. You need to upgrade the secondary injectors if you want any more power than you could have made on the stock twin turbos.

Dont just install a PFC and start raising hell/going fast, you will blow your engine that way just as well.

 

what else do you suggest to do?
i am not going for 500ps . i want to increase a litle the original horse power. to say 15-20%. i do not know the capabilities of the new turbo but i am sure i do not want to push the engine to the limits.
are you refering to ceramic apex seals?

thanks!!

 

Im going to cut straight to the point, do you even know anything about your car or the RX-7 for that matter. What you have done to your car is completely retarded and obviously shows that there was zero research during the whole process. The best thing you can do at this point is leave the car alone.Dont drive it, touch it or even look at it. You need to spend allot of time searching how to properly do a single turbo conversion. If your so clouded by ignorance to think slapping on a big turbo would be enough, this car isn't for you.

 

my problem started one day that the car refuses to start. i towed the car to a mechanic and he sayed that my one turbo needs rebilt. i contacted mazda and the replied that they do not sell parts to repair my turbo . in fact they sell the whole twin turbo assemply and the price was 8.000 euros. YES 8.000 euros. that was out of question for me . the person how had the car in his shop suggested to fit a garret turbo at about 1000 euros plus the new piping and intercooler.
it seamed one way to me!!!
that all about 3 years ago.

i fixed the car and left it to a garage all this time. now i made some research and i realize that all i did is not wright.
now i have acces to internet and i started to work on the car again to make it usable.

can anyone please help?
i am not a mechanic but i have some knowledze to understand what you suggest.

you are right. i am not driving the car. i want to start driving it again.
can you please give me some advise to go out of this situation?

thanks!

 

The car not starting had nothing to do with your turbo being bad. If you just want to enjoy the car I suggest buying a good used set of stock turbos, keeping the stock ecu and keeping the boost below 10lbs.

 

there are made major changes at the intercooler section, exaust , catalyst, and i cannot install stock turbos again unfortunately.
it seems to me that the only way to start driving the car again is to complete the mod i started.

is the pfc a good idea or what else to do?
thanks!!!

 

PFC is necessary or another standalone to run the single turbo but you really need to learn to tune, go to the PFC section here on the forum and start reading, there is a lot to learn.

 

Do you have any pictures of the turbo? or some stats on the turbo? The turbo model would be nice to know, as well as the turbine A/R. If the turbo is quite small, you might still be safe with the car at 10 psi.

If you're on a tight budget there might be some work-around methods that will at least allow you to enjoy the car. They are NOT optimal but will get the job done. No matter what way you go, you need to make sure the AFR's are safe.

Since no one in your area can tune the car, you need to learn this yourself. You need to at least know what is safe.

First thing is get yourself a wideband O2 controller. You need this no matter what. It should have a gauge, controller and sensor. They can be found for around $300 US. Richer mixtures are lower numbers usually from 10.0:1 - 11.0:1 stoich is 14.7:1 and lean is higher numbers. The most important numbers are anything under boost.

So Install your wideband and carefully check your afr's under boost, (I recommend using race fuel when starting out if its available) if the afr's go above 12.0:1 once boost starts coming on then you'll probably be too lean under more boost. If the AFR's check out then slowly go up in boost. The AFR's should progressivly get richer as boost increases.

Provided you have decent quality fuel over there you can run afr's as lean as about 11.8 @ 10 psi. If the numbers go leaner then that then stop, if they go richer, then it's safe. If they are ALOT richer then you won't make as much power and may have misfiring and plug fouling.

If the car is too lean due to the new turbo flowing much more then the stock twins you can upgrade your fuel pump and rewire it then increase the fuel pressure with an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Sometimes a new pump and rewire is enough to increase the fuel pressure without making any adjustments or adding a FPR. Carefully recheck the AFR's, you're cruise AFR's will most likely be richer at this point which will make gas mileage suffer. But this is better then a blown engine. If they richer then 12.5 off boost you'll probably build up a lot of carbon and have trouble with plugs fouling out and poor fuel economy.

Just a side note...Before you do all this you will need the 330 ohm resistors mentioned above ONLY if you're still using the stock ECU. If you have upgraded to a PFC or other, the resistors are not needed. The PFC is a much safer way to go anyways, the stock ECU is doable, provided your under 10 psi and the turbo isn't giant, but its more difficult and dangerous, and will cause your cruise maps to suffer. It does run on the rich side from the factory so a little more airflow would still be safe.

If you decide to go with the PFC, either because the above mentioned is still not at safe mixtures, or because you prefer to do things the correct way, then you might as well get the dataloggit to go along with it. it's $200- 300 US and will make tuning much easier. You can PM cewrx7r1 (chuck westbrook) for his tuning notes.

 

^^That is spot-on advice right there.

Sorry you are in pretty deep right now and I agree the best way is for you to just learn to tune the car yourself and get it going. If it is a small single turbo you may be ok with the fuel pump, but it is not advised. Get yourself a new fuel pump, and once you install the PFC you may monitor fuel injector duty cycles and see if you need to upgrade the secondary injectors.

cewrx7r1 (chuck) has an AMAZING set of notes for teaching yourself to tune with the PFC. Get a good wideband O2 sensor, a good boost gauge, and the PFC and that should get you started. Really take your time and read carefully. Sorry I know the language barrier will make this even more difficult just ask on here in the PFC section for help if you need it to understand something written in the notes. You speak (type) decent English but it has to be challenging reading technical documents like this.

Good luck, take your time, and be careful.

 

guys,
thank you all for the support and info.
i will try to post some pictures and to find turbo spesifications .
i have an autometer boost gauge already installed. i wide band sensor is needed. can you suggest one? any good suplyer?

i get in contact with chuck already and he is willing to help.

i found rx7club last days and there is so much stuff to read that i am a bit lost. anyway i started studying the pfc section...


thanks again

 

wideband i would suggest the innovate products, they are fairly priced and trully accurate,

i use the xd-16 on my car and im really happy.

Since everyone is mentioning the power fc, dont just go a power fc for the rx7 as it probably will not work on your car, There are 8bit rx7s and 16bit rx7s. you guys in greece have 93-95 models therefore its an 8bit unless of course if you have an import which is +1996

 

hi
do i fit the wideband instead the os sensor? i must drill new hole to the exaust?
how did you fit yours?
thanks!!!

 

With the PFC you just turn off the O2 Feedback then install the wideband in the original hole. If you are looking to run it in addition to the stock sensor then you need to weld in an additional O2 bung

To answer your initial question, yes you can eliminate the solenoids as they are not needed to control the single turbo. You can also eliminate lots of other emissions related items with block off plates http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_fd_bop_kit.htm

We highly recommend that you install a PFC, instead of installing resistors to trick the stock ECU

 

the innovate comes with a nut that you can weld on ur exhaust.

I have read an article back in the days and they suggested that the o2 sensor should be placed 18inchs back in order to extend the life of the sensor and get more accurate readings

you can install it in the stock position but theres too much heat going on there