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Doing clutch/flywheel any tips on labor?

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Old 03-02-03, 12:09 AM
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Doing clutch/flywheel any tips on labor?

I'am going to upgrade the clutch and flywheel. I want to use a Racing Beat 9.5 aluminum fly and I'am stuck on the clutch. Either a S/S Centerforce unit or an ACT unit. I have heard bad things from ACT except for Rx7 users, weird.

I will have a couple people helping me. All I have is floor jacks and stands. I have no air tools. Some of the people helping me have done clutchs before without air tools but I'am not sure we can do the fly with out air tools.

What I'am looking for since most of the good threads were deleted cleaning out this forum are some tips. My friend is doing his right now but has dropped the tranny and has disconnected the driveshaft to get to it. Any tips or web addys to help me a long. I have the RX7 work book, I'am sure that will cary the load but any help would be great. I have heard you don't have to drop the tranny, well maybe if I do the fly too with it. Any help guys?

Ohh and just and case I bit off my than I could chew, what are some of the labor rates going at right now for this job.

Jonas
Old 03-02-03, 12:27 AM
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I am in the process of changing my clutch out as well. I also do not have air tools, and will be attempting to remove the flywhell nut without them. I do have a ~4 foot cheater bar (an old weight bar that fits over my socket wrench) that I will be using to break that badboy loose.

As far as I know the only way to do it with the engine still in the car is to drop the tranny. Obivously if the engine is out of the car it simplifies things somewhat.

For a detailed writeup (and the directions I've been following) go here:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/clutch_install.html

Hope that helps.
Old 03-02-03, 12:40 AM
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Originally posted by wingsfan
I am in the process of changing my clutch out as well. I also do not have air tools, and will be attempting to remove the flywhell nut without them. I do have a ~4 foot cheater bar (an old weight bar that fits over my socket wrench) that I will be using to break that badboy loose.

As far as I know the only way to do it with the engine still in the car is to drop the tranny. Obivously if the engine is out of the car it simplifies things somewhat.

For a detailed writeup (and the directions I've been following) go here:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/clutch_install.html

Hope that helps.
Yes it does, my friend just sent me the link and in the process of printing it out as I speak. I have a couple cheater bars and will use tham. Thanks for your help and good luck!

Is this a good time to change the rear main seal and any help on that would be great.
Old 03-02-03, 09:44 AM
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Originally posted by Street King
Yes it does, my friend just sent me the link and in the process of printing it out as I speak. I have a couple cheater bars and will use tham. Thanks for your help and good luck!

Is this a good time to change the rear main seal and any help on that would be great.
Yeah, if you have a persistent oil leak, or oil pooling at the engine/tranny interface like I do, then it might be your rear main seal or the rear stationary gear O-ring.

Apparently there was a TSB on the rear stationary gear o-ring. For many people's cars they replace the rear main seal thinking that it is the culprit when in reality it is the stationary gear o-ring causing the problem. You might as well replace that as well, while you're in there.

Retourque your rear housing bolts as well (http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/r..._retorque.html )

Anyhow, Here's the part numbers I came up with at mazdatrix:

10-555A-0813
O-RING REAR GEAR ALL ROTARY 10-555A-0813 $5.24

10-556A-1668
SEAL OIL REAR MAIN ALL 10-556A-1668 $6.21

Good luck.
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