Doesn't start after themosensor install
08-27-06, 02:15 PM
#1
Passenger
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Doesn't start after themosensor install
Okay. I replaced my coolant thermosensor (top sensor on the coolant fill neck) last night. After putting everything back together, my car started up just fine, although it was running extremely rich and had bad idle. This morning I pulled everything apart again, checked the thermosensor, and a few vacuum lines that were involved in the install. I filled up the coolant at the coolant neck, put everything together again, then started the car back up. Perhaps it was too full on coolant, but it had great difficulty starting up and made a single clank noise somewhere on the passenger side of the engine bay. I got out, drained a bit of the coolant and then took everything apart again. Then I remembered these symptoms were similar to what I had last time when the MAP sensor was off, checked it, and lo and behold the line was off. Plugged it back in, put everything together, and started it..
Cranked strong, smelled fuel, but didn't start. I tried the unflooding tricks (15 sec throttle, 15 sec no throttle, as well as the EGI fuse) but nothing. It wanted to start up for about a second, but then just dies. I don't know if it's a connector I forgot somewhere (I've checked four times), a vacuum hose left unplugged, or a fuse that burnt out. I'm starting to run out of ideas.
Cliff notes:
- Replacing water thermosensor
- 1st startup ok, running very rich and bad idle
- Checked hoses/connectors/etc and added (too much) coolant
- 2nd startup difficult to start, drained excess coolant
- Remembered MAP sensor, plugged it in, that would solve the running rich but:
- Will not start up anymore. Wants to start for a second, then dies. Cranks strong.
Cranked strong, smelled fuel, but didn't start. I tried the unflooding tricks (15 sec throttle, 15 sec no throttle, as well as the EGI fuse) but nothing. It wanted to start up for about a second, but then just dies. I don't know if it's a connector I forgot somewhere (I've checked four times), a vacuum hose left unplugged, or a fuse that burnt out. I'm starting to run out of ideas.
Cliff notes:
- Replacing water thermosensor
- 1st startup ok, running very rich and bad idle
- Checked hoses/connectors/etc and added (too much) coolant
- 2nd startup difficult to start, drained excess coolant
- Remembered MAP sensor, plugged it in, that would solve the running rich but:
- Will not start up anymore. Wants to start for a second, then dies. Cranks strong.
08-27-06, 03:08 PM
#3
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Hey, stating the obvious is better than not saying anything at all 
Anyways it doesn't seem to fire anymore. I'm not very sure that it is flooded because all the other times this has happened the unflooding procedures worked pretty well. I was so close to getting everything working at 100% I'm kicking myself for pulling everything apart again and messing with it and not remembering to just connect the MAP.
Anyways it doesn't seem to fire anymore. I'm not very sure that it is flooded because all the other times this has happened the unflooding procedures worked pretty well. I was so close to getting everything working at 100% I'm kicking myself for pulling everything apart again and messing with it and not remembering to just connect the MAP.
08-27-06, 05:55 PM
#4
Passenger
Posts: n/a
A few hours later, I tried starting it up again, nada. Did the 15 sec WOT, 15 sec normal trick to no avail. I am starting to think it may not be flooding after all. I double checked all my lines and connectors, this is the only one that I don't remember:
Is this supposed to lead somewhere? I can't find it on my vacuum diagram.
http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg
Is this supposed to lead somewhere? I can't find it on my vacuum diagram.
http://www.turborx7.com/images/Techn...e_diagram2.jpg
08-27-06, 06:21 PM
#6
Eye In The Sky
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When you totally flood an engine, the extra gas washes off the oil from the rotor housing surfaces, and fouls the plugs. You have to do the extreme clean up.
Remove the plugs and clean them.
Disconnect the ignitor connector.
Squirt some auto trans or other thin oil into the rotor housings through the plug holes or UIM tubes (better of the two choices) where the studs come up from the LIM.
Crank the engine a little with the gas pedal floored (also turns off the injectors).
****To be sure the fuel is cut off, you can also pull the EGI relay.
Clean the oilly mess opposite the plug holes. (should have put some rags there).
Put everything back together again without messing something else up(which caused the original problem).
Start the engine.
Remove the plugs and clean them.
Disconnect the ignitor connector.
Squirt some auto trans or other thin oil into the rotor housings through the plug holes or UIM tubes (better of the two choices) where the studs come up from the LIM.
Crank the engine a little with the gas pedal floored (also turns off the injectors).
****To be sure the fuel is cut off, you can also pull the EGI relay.
Clean the oilly mess opposite the plug holes. (should have put some rags there).
Put everything back together again without messing something else up(which caused the original problem).
Start the engine.
08-27-06, 06:33 PM
#7
or just remove the plugs and EGI fuse/fuel pump relay and crank the engine for 2 10 second intervals. replace the plugs with new ones if they are even semi old and replace the fuse/relay and start the car. if it still won't start then you need to add some MMO to the engine and try again.
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08-27-06, 06:38 PM
#8
I'm surprised nobody else has commented on this:
Not related to your no-start problem, but the coolant system is designed to be FULL. You can't fill it too far. Please fill it back up!
Originally Posted by AcesHigh
... I filled up the coolant at the coolant neck, put everything together again, then started the car back up. Perhaps it was too full on coolant ... I got out, drained a bit of the coolant ...
08-27-06, 07:08 PM
#10
Passenger
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Originally Posted by YellowT2
I'm surprised nobody else has commented on this:
Not related to your no-start problem, but the coolant system is designed to be FULL. You can't fill it too far. Please fill it back up!
Not related to your no-start problem, but the coolant system is designed to be FULL. You can't fill it too far. Please fill it back up!
Thanks everyone for replying, I guess the plugged line was just a shot in the dark. I'm still trying the EGI trick to clear out the fuel, I will tell you how that goes. If it doesnt work I will try the ATF suggestion. My plugs are a few months old, and I really don't want to pull everything apart again to get them out, but I will use that as a last resort.
Thank all. Any other suggestions appreciated too
08-27-06, 08:54 PM
#13
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Got it started up
Just for archival purposes for anyone else who finds this thread:
Symptoms: Cranks strong, initially starts up briefly (for a second maybe) but dies, subsequent startups do not fire. Exhaust pipe and general engine bay smells heavily of gasoline.
Cause: Engine flooded with gasoline
Fix: Read the above responses. Then here's what I did: I took out the EGI fuse and EGI main relay (both in fuse boxes near the battery) and then cranked the car under WOT (wide open throttle ie gas pedal all the way down). This helps clear the combustion chambers of fuel. Since my spark plugs were fairly new (less than a year old) I did not want to hassle with them. I replace the fuses after cranking for two ten second intervals and then crank it up normally. It didn't go the first five times, so I repeated the process, waiting about fifteen minutes between each trial. All the while the battery was under charging. Finally the last try it started up, I thought it was a fluke, but I hit the gas pedal to keep it from dying and it kept running. As everyone described above and in other flooding threads there was a large amount of fuel/smoke and it was very rough the first five-ten minutes. There was backfire coming from the exhaust until I revved it to 6k RPMs about twelve minutes into it. That cleared the exhaust of high fuel exhaust and smoothed everything off.
Conclusion: The process would have probably taken much less time if I had done some of the plug and ATF suggestions, but I didn't want to bother with those at all, especially since it was getting dark. The cooler air from the night (it's about 8:30pm right now) probably helped in a small way.
Overall lesson: Check your MAP sensor always if you are running rich, even if you didn't have to touch that area doing whatever it is you were doing
Thank you everyone for your help.
Just for archival purposes for anyone else who finds this thread:
Symptoms: Cranks strong, initially starts up briefly (for a second maybe) but dies, subsequent startups do not fire. Exhaust pipe and general engine bay smells heavily of gasoline.
Cause: Engine flooded with gasoline
Fix: Read the above responses. Then here's what I did: I took out the EGI fuse and EGI main relay (both in fuse boxes near the battery) and then cranked the car under WOT (wide open throttle ie gas pedal all the way down). This helps clear the combustion chambers of fuel. Since my spark plugs were fairly new (less than a year old) I did not want to hassle with them. I replace the fuses after cranking for two ten second intervals and then crank it up normally. It didn't go the first five times, so I repeated the process, waiting about fifteen minutes between each trial. All the while the battery was under charging. Finally the last try it started up, I thought it was a fluke, but I hit the gas pedal to keep it from dying and it kept running. As everyone described above and in other flooding threads there was a large amount of fuel/smoke and it was very rough the first five-ten minutes. There was backfire coming from the exhaust until I revved it to 6k RPMs about twelve minutes into it. That cleared the exhaust of high fuel exhaust and smoothed everything off.
Conclusion: The process would have probably taken much less time if I had done some of the plug and ATF suggestions, but I didn't want to bother with those at all, especially since it was getting dark. The cooler air from the night (it's about 8:30pm right now) probably helped in a small way.
Overall lesson: Check your MAP sensor always if you are running rich, even if you didn't have to touch that area doing whatever it is you were doing
Thank you everyone for your help.
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