This is the water temp sender for my Autometer electric water temp gauge. With one of the enclosed adapters, it will screw right into the top of the thermostat housing. (Thanks for the tip, Mahjik...I finally got the plug out with some PB Blaster).

The sender is soooo close the cap. The top of it is where the sender's signal comes from. Is it this close for you other Autometer guys, too?




Sonny

 

How in the wide world of sports did you screw the bottom adapter on??. Have you turned the engine on to check for leaks around the adapter??

 

You have to remove the filler neck's 2 10mm bolts and then remove the filler neck. The adapter then screws in with no problems.

Sonny

 

On the top photo it seems that the base on which the filler neck bolts onto is still above the area the adapter would be screwed into.

Anyway, as long as the sensor doesn't interfere with opening and properly closing the cap, you'll be okay.

 

probably not ideal, but looks like it will work.

like arexseven said i would be worried about being able to open and close the top

 

Yes, it's close but it shouldn't touch. If you want, put a little dab of RTV there just so it won't ground out but you look ok.

 

Mahjik has spoken. So let it be written, so let it be done.

 

Loosen the two bolts holding the top of the filler neck and see if you can slide it away from the sender another mm or 2. Then retighten. If that still is too close for you...

Or wrap the thing in electrical tape a couple of times (tightly) so only the top post is exposed. Hopefully it won't touch the cap still, but at least there will be some insulation. Then attach the wire at the post. Mine's close like that, but not quite. If it grounds out you'll get weird readings, but you wont' damage anything.

Or, take off the filler cap and grind away at the closest part of the sender adapter to add a little clearance. You'll have plenty of nut there should you try to remove it someday (that sounds bad)

Dave

 

dude you are hilarious all over the 3d gen section today

 

i am trying to do this very same job right now but i cannot figure out how you got the radiator cap screwed on???

everytime i try it (without success) it scrapes the sender, which i think will ground it out when in use no?

 

I think the alignment of the radiator cap ears to the thread mechanism varies from cap to cap. In my case I got lucky - one ear nearly touches when I put it on, and as I tighten it goes the whole way around almost to touch the other ear.

Dave

 

Lets face it. The man is never wrong. With regard to any and all aspects of the FD3S, Mahjik is arguably the most knowledgeable person on this board. You will not find another person that exhibits his kind of passion for the FD. Bar none!

 

You might have to cut one of the "Mickey Mouse" ears off the cap. I had to on mine to be able to screw the cap on with the sender in place.

Thanks for the props. I appreciated. I'm just preaching what the old school guys have taught.

 

Word out. Mahjik is the man.

Yeah, I had to trim off one of the ears off the cap when I installed mine.
Mahjik, I get some hissing and bubbling sounds after shutoff around where I cut the cap with just a tad of coolant. Will it pose any problems?

 

That could be a problem. Cutting the "ears" shouldn't hurt the seal as that has to do with the rubber under the cap (the ears just make it easier to take off and put on). It's the rubber that is making the seal for you so if it's old or damaged, it won't seal properly. Make sure the rubber is still in good condition; if not, just pick up a new cap at your local Autozone.

 

If the cap touches the body of the sender or adaptor that is just fine as they are grounded anyway. What you don't want is for the cap to touch any part of the connection at the top as that is the signal to the gauge. Even if the cap were to accidently touch the signal wire no harm to the gauge, it will just peg the reading. Nothing will short out or blow up

 

That's where I mounted my sender, but I had to cut the filler cap to get it on.

 

Just in case you didn't know, If you eliminate the AST, you will get no coolant flow past a sensor mounted there.