I replaced my original A/C dryer about six months ago and converted from r-12 to the new r-134a freon.

Under normal driving circumstances, the a/c is decent. At night, it defenitely cools well, but on a day like today (90 degrees in Miami), after a ten minute drive, all I get is warm air from the vents. I checked my freon level & it's full, no leaks.

Are there any solutions to improving this notorious issue with the fd? Please don't say get rid of the A/C 'cause living in miaim without a/c is murder. Not an option.

I love taking the fiance out to the beach in this car, but the ride home just isn't pleasant.

Any ideas would be much appreciated. you can see my mods below.

Thanks,

Ian

 

Hmm..Maybe my 19 years in South Florida has grown me accustomed to the heat,but I've owned the car for 8 months now and have never used the A/C..Just love the drive too much with the windows down and the sunroof open.I'm sorry,I know that doesn't help your situation at all lol,but South Florida with no A/C is possible,for some

 

Ian, honestly your best bet is to remove that R-134a crap and go back to R-12. I have not one, two, or even three, but FOUR cars w/ R-12, and I'm *adamant* about keeping 'em as such. R-12's cooling ability/efficiency is simply superior to R-134a, period.

~Ramy

 

I live in Florida and I can stand no A/C somedays but there are other days I wish I had A/C, especially with leather seats it gets real hot, which is why I'm putting A/C back in with r-12, which is what I have in my 94' and its awesome.

 

Read my posts in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/c-gurus-what-say-you-about-freeze-12-a-664882/

 

if you can, go back to the R12. unless a system was designed for 134, it will never be as cold.

 

Thanks guys...do you think I did any irreversible harm to my system bu putting in r-134?

Is the process of going back to r-12 just a matter of changing the dryer again and putting in the new freon?

 

The r-134 might have damaged some of the o-rings in the a/c lines as they where desinged for r-12, but thats should be the only possible prob.

 

Ian I think you can get R12 in Broward and Palm Beach County

 

R12 is READILY available on Ebay, provided you take the EPA test and get certified to purchase it...

 

Can someone give me abit of a history lesson on the R12 or R134 etc? Which model came with which?

From memory I just remember they changed the gas of the A/C on later builds to meet emissions?

 

R12 is the way to go.
PLUS, tint your windows. Eliminate the heat from getting in the cabin in the first place. Make sure when you go to get the tint, find the one that eliminates the heat. It will probably not be the cheapest or most expensive, or the darkest.

 

Thanks Dave...any clue where?

 

I stopped by Pep Boys off of Sunrise by SawGrass Mall and the guy there told me that they could do R134 or R12 my option. I don't know if the rules are any different now. If you can get R12 like Ramy said you might be able to get our friend Special Ed to help you out but I agree with everyone R12 just works they way it was intended.

 

For FDs:

- 93s = R12 only
- 94s = your luck of the draw (ie some have R12 and some have R-134a)
- 95s = R-134a only

~Ramy

 

Most of the sellers on E-bay allow you to fill out a form stating that you are purchasing the R12 for re-sale only. Then you can buy it. But I've got my MACS certification anyway =D

 

Simply converting to r134a doesn't work very well. If you notice the 95 condenser is different than the earlier models. If I recall correctly it has a denser construction. The expansion valve, dryer, and all o-ring should also be replaced and the system properly charged.

 

Do you know what oil you used ? Some are compatible with both, others are NOT.

If in doubt, FLUSH the system. +1 on replacing all O-rings, expansion valve, and dryer, and be sure to draw a deep (25-30 inches) vacuum for at least 1.5-hrs.

If you do keep the R134a, then I suggest you mod the fans to come on FULL blast when the A/C is on.

R134a needs much more air-flow since it isn't as efficient as R12 and you're using the R12 condenser.

:-) neil

 

After reading this, and doing a review, if you're not satisfied with your R134a conversion, then I would do this, esp. with ES-12a being compatible with R134a oils.

:-) neil

 

what modifications have you done? a thick Koyo radiator will effect your AC cooling. removing the air dam will drastically affect your cooling. do you have a vented hood? are both of your fans working? have you done the fan switch mod?


at night your AC should be very cold regardless of r12 or r134a. if not something is wrong with the AC or car cooling.

 

R-12 is getting to be very expensive because they are trying to deter consumers away from it seeing it hurts the ozone. As everyone stated, it cools alot better than R-134. Seeing that you already converted to R-134, you can do what I did and some of the other guys on the forum (this is, if you are up to the challenge). I removed my dashboard, center console and carpet and layed down a heat blanket on the firewall, the trans tunnel from the rear bins to the firewall and part of the floor board. The tranny tunnel gets very hot and the motor generates alot of heat

 

i am having a similar problem. i get great cold air on fan 1. but on 2 and up it pretty much just blows air.. anyone got any ideas?

 

you are most likely low on freon FD. you should have the A/C checked.

 

i cant cheak the freon lvls myself can i?

 

With the proper tools, yes.

Otherwise, it's just the site-glass (look for bubbles when it's running).

:-) neil